RTM21011 Hoover Refrigerator - Instructions

After unplugging the refrigerator, I used a hairdryer to melt the ice sufficiently to be able to remove the freezer rear panel with a nutdriver. I also removed the ice-maker for easier access to the components behind the panel, using a nutdriver. Once the panel was removed I melted more ice at the bottom of the evaporator housing. Afte ... Read more r partially melting the ice in the drain tube, I poured hot water down the drain tube until it cleared, signaled by the sound of the water dripping into the drain pan. I next removed the clip-on Bimetal thermostat from the copper line going into the evaporator and snipped the two wires to remove it. I installed the replacement thermostat with crimp-style connectors and pull-tested them. I also replaced the timer board that is located below the freezer, below the top shelf, using a nutdriver. I replaced the circuit board as a precaution that the thermostat may not have caused the problem. I didn't change the heater inside the freezer as it checked out to have the same resistance as a new one. I tested the removed thermostat using a glass of ice water but it remained in the open condition, using an ohmmeter. (I later checked that thermostat after the freezer was running and it did close, and returned it to the open position by heating it under the hot water faucet. I suspect that it didn't work properly, or the timer control board was faulty). After re-installing the back panel and ice-maker and plugging the refrigerator into the power receptacle, it worked very well, and has done so since the repair.

The first order of business was to find a supplier for the gasket and to make sure that the right one was ordered. This was done with out a hitch @ Part Select and at a cost less than the retail stores. The right Gasket was ordered thru Parts Select

Only difficulty was to start the install of the replacment .
Need to star ... Read more t at the hinged corner of the door Top & Bottom for a good fit and less hassel.

Thank you Part Select for the service.

Alan E. Bischof
Houston Texas

slid new end caps onto bar and snaped back in to door. It took less than 1 minute.

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

It was easy breezy!! I felt like an empowered woman that I did it myself. I simply removed the old shelf supports with a screwdrive and inserted a screw thru the new supports and screwed them in.

Once I identified the problem, Partselect's web page made it easy to find a replacement part. The Housing Control unit was easy to remove as it had one screw in the middle, by the temprature control section, and two screws to either end. The center screw required a philips head, but the end once did not need to be removed. The unit coul ... Read more d simply be slid out and the wiring is easy to disconnect. Then it was simply a process of inserting the components from the damaged Housing Control unit, to the new one. If you treat it like a "puzzle" you'll get the results you want with out the aggrevation that it could turn into.

The gasket is sandwiched between the main door and the shelf assembly.

What holds them together is 42 1/4in hex head self tapping screws that run along the edge (each one is finger tight).

I would highly recommend a power drill with a 1/4 hex socket to remove the screws. It makes things much faster. Be careful when ... Read more screwing the screws back in with the power drill(you only want them finger tight). If the screws are too tight,the gasket will bulge out in places.

At first the seal may feel weak. Keep the door closed for a couple of hours and the seal should improve.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

My brother came up and installed the part.

I opened rear wall inside freezer (two screws) cut the wires on old thermostat and removed it. Then I attatched the new thermostat to the existing wires using wire nuts and electrical tape and slid it onto the copper tubing. Re-installed the rear wall. Freezer works like a charm and the refridgerator is also colder. Job completed in twent ... Read more y minutes and Tim Allen has nothing on me. Mike Milne

No repair needed. I had only to wash the new ones and use them.

After unplugging the appliance, I unscrewed the screws in the bottom and the back of the freezer compartment and un-clipped the connector for the ice machine, which i do not have installed. I clipped the pink and brown wires and replace the switch with the new switch. unfortunately, the appliance is still dripping water from the freezer c ... Read more ompartment. It worked for a couple of days then stopped working. Still looking for a true FIX.

Ordered new shelf on a Tuesday night. Part shipped out on Wednesday, received and installed on Friday. It doesn't get any better than that!

At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved m ... Read more e $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.