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RS463J5 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the RS463J5
31 - 45 of 493

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Bake Element had burned out
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carol from Sterling, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
shut off electricity to the range, removed the screws holding the element in place, pulled the element out as far as it would go, removed the screws holding the wires in place, tossed the old element, attached the wires to the new element, pushed the element back into place and reattached the screws holding the element in place. Turned th e electricity back on and the oven heated right up.

Also, the part arrived the day after I ordered it. Great Price & Great Service.
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Trim Ring - 8" didn't fit right and Drip Bowls were not cleanable any more
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bonnie from Anchorage, AK
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Replaced all the ordered parts, and straightened a bent "rest piece" (one of three) on the element os the large burner, which made it rest perfectly on the new Trim Ring. It doesn't easily fall down into the bowl now while I am using the burner. The new Bowls look so nice, and the stove looks nearly new!

I now know where to go for help when I need to repair appliances. You seem to have everything that could possibly be needed. Thank you!
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Electric range heating unit (burner) inop
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from San Pedro, CA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed single screw securing the old tilt-up burner. Removed clips on sides of clamshell ceramic terminal block with flat blade screwdriver to expose two wire connections. Removed 2 screws connecting the wires to the bad heating element. Did not use the supplied new ceramic terminal block, just reused old one. Connected new burner to wir es with 2 screws. Reassembled terminal block with clips. Fastened clip with single screw to attach new unit to side of opening in range top. Tested. Done.
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Both heating elements not working
7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from WATAUGA, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Removed racks from oven. Each element had two screws, used socket wrench for all, gently pulled out element to exposé wiring removed wires with same socket. Once element out of oven, reattached wires to new element, reset element to back of oven and with the two screws attached back. Did the same process for top element only exception was a bracket holding top element from leaning down. It had two screws all the same size as element screws. Once all back in place turned on breaker to check each element.
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broken knobs
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Williston, VT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
pushed on the new knobs.
thanks fore having the parts.
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The bake element had burned out.
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Randolph from Rolla, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
1. Make sure electricity is off!
2. Remove 2 screws at rear of oven where the bake element is attached.
3. Pull out far enough to remove the 2 screws where the wires attach.
4. Lift out the old element and set the new one in.
5. Reattach the wires.
6. Reattach the element to the rear of the stove.
7. Turn ele ctricity back on.
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Element got hot spot
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Shannon from LOUISVILLE, KY
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Easiest thing I've done. Shut off breaker. Unplug range. Pull out from wall (because this is a good time to remove the back, clean under and around the unit, check out the insulation and electrical contacts....or skip it, whatever). Open oven. Remove door (while ajar, pull up). Remove racks. Unscrew mounting plate from back interior wall. Set screws aside. Gently pull element forward until the leads and wires come through the insulation. Remove any strands of insulation that stuck to the leads and connectors. Unscrew leads. Keep left wire to the left and right wire to the right. DO NOT CROSS. Set screws aside. Discard old element. (This is a good time to clean your oven, if you haven't in a while.) If you cleaned oven, wait until dry. Position new element, feet down, in bottom of oven. Position left wire on left connector. Screw tightly BUT DO NOT BEND LEAD. IF YOU BEND IT, THEN DO NOT BEND IT BACK. CALL A PROFESSIONAL. Position right wire on right connector. Screw tightly BUT DO NOT BEND. IF YOU BEND IT, THEN DO NOT BEND IT BACK. CALL A PROFESSIONAL. Do not leave screws loose. Connection must be tight. Fire hazard, otherwise. If you bent nothing, then gently push element back through insulation until mounting plate is flush. Screw into position. Replace racks. Replace door. If you decide to check insulation and other leads, now is the time. I checked mine and it's a good thing I did.... Unscrew back plate of oven, keeping screws in order. Remove plate. Check that your new element and insulation aren't bunched up or otherwise in a hazardous state. You may notice burned or greasy insulation. You may see burned leads on light receptacle and broil element. If you do, then replace them, too. When finished with everything, replace back plate. Put range back into position, ensuring level and plumb. Plug in. Turn on breaker. Pat yourself on the back. You just saved $100-$250, depending on where you live.
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no burnt wire
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bernard from N CHARLESTON, SC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replace part an wires
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Bake element did not work
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenny from CALDWELL, ID
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Got new part! Unplug range!!!
Remove oven door by opening and lifting up at the same time, set aside.
Remove two screws with a nutdriver or screwdriver.
Pull on element far enough to unhook wires and throw away old element and install the wires on the new element and reinstall!!
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infinite switch would not shut off at times.
6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ervin from Milford, DE
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First shut the power to the stove,then had to slide the stove out so I could get at the back to remove the panel screws.Once you have the back off remove the knob on the front.Under the knob is 2 phillips screws that you need to remove.Next I took the new switch and matched up the wires to the old switch.Reinstall is the reverse.Once the switch is in place you must remove the excess shaft to match the length of the old one.This is done with the use of 2 pliers,you grasp the shaft with both pliers and snap it off where you need it.The kit comes with spacers so you have got to match up the right one so the switch is solid on the shaft.This finishes the project,next turn the power back on and check that all is working ok.Job finished.
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Electric Burner Control Broken
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from VINELAND, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring!
Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up!
Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up!
Works fine! Now all burners work again!
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Bad switch plus a disintegrating element
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Merriam Woods, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Moved into a house built in 1976 about 7 years ago that came with an old but nice looking GE electric stove.
Stove worked well until about a year ago when the switch for the 8" element became erratic. Having been raised where DIYS was SOP I didn't even consider calling for help instead, armed with the stove model number, I went to th e internet (How on earth did I ever survive before internet?) and found this site where I quickly found the exploded view of my stove, IDed the switch, ordered and received it within a day or so. Fantastic turn around time!

Now I've never ever worked on an electric stove so I was quite methodical in my approach.

First I read the instructions (you know, when all else fails…) that came with the new switch, then I pulled the stove out, unplugged it and removed the tin back that covers the switches. I drew a diagram of the old switch orientation and which wires attached to what. Then I disconnected the wires, removed the knob and the two screws hiding behind it that hold the switch to the stove.

Oops, the new switch was not identical to the old!!

First: I noticed was that the stem for the knob was longer BUT they proved break off notches so that it can be shortened.
Second: the stem on the old switch was a half round while the new stem was square. I tried the 'half round' knob on the square stem and it went on firmly. Nothing ventured nothing gained.
Third: the terminal orientation did not match. So armed with my diagram and the instructions I made sure I knew which terminal was which (they are labeled). Once assured I knew what went where (I made notes) I installed the new switch and attached the wires (following my notes).

Being an optimist I reinstalled the tin back, plugged the stove in and pushed it back into position before (with my legs, arms and fingers crossed) I tested the switch (which was not easy considering the position I was in). Lo and behold, no puff of smoke and…ta-da…everything worked as it should.

All in all, upon receiving the switch the whole thing took less than 30 minutes.

Recent.

Less than two weeks ago one of the 6" elements fell apart, still worked but lost the supports that rest on the trim ring. Back to the internet to ordered a new element and new trim rings (just for the cosmetics). Again great service, I think I received my order the second day.

Along with the element they also supply new screws plus the spring clips which hold the ceramic insulator together. There's only two wires to contend with so its easy to determine which is the left wire and which is the right. The old terminal screws were locked in pretty good so I used pliers to hold the terminal while loosening them. There's very little slack in the wires so it was a tad awkward reattaching them to the new element.
I did notice that the threaded hole on the new element seemed to be slightly larger than the old. I noticed this when I used the old screws, one would tighten, the other did not so I replaced with the screws they supplied (Duh!). Well I do have an excuse, the new screws were longer which I feared would prevent the insulator from 'closing'.
I probably spent the most time attaching the insulator. I found I needed to fiddle with position of the terminals before the two halves of the insulator would meet. I splayed the wires out slightly then cocked the wire ends slightly so that the wires would neatly leave the side of the insulator. I also adjusted the terminals and the bendable wire part on the element so that they were parallel to each other.

ANYBODY can do this
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Still need an other nut to keep broiler support inplcae. Support bar did not come with new screws so I must locate one new one.
6 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donna from Sinking Spring, PA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I took out the old broiler support bar, but it was being held by one screw. I did install the new bar with one screw, but I need to obtain a second screw. I still have not located a second screw, but it is inplace.
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Needed To Replace Drip Bowl
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • DIANA from TINTON FALLS, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I just replaced them.
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missing knobs on clock and timers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from SONORA, CA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Installed new knobs, mom is happy!!
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All Instructions for the RS463J5
31 - 45 of 493