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RGBS300DM2BB General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the RGBS300DM2BB
61 - 75 of 270

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Oven bottom badly marred after 16 years.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Charlie from NAPLES, FL
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Two set screws in rear; removed easily with a screwdriver. Old oven floor lifted out easily; new oven floor dropped in just as easily; set screws re-installed. Done. Pleasantly surprised at how easy this went.
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Gas Range oven not heating/replaced new heating element
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Andrew from EL SOBRANTE, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed oven shelves, removed lower cover, removed heating element, removed lower drawer and unplugged element.
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Oven Would Not Stay Lit/Smell Of Gas
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Melvin from Brooklyn, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The repair was pretty straight forward. I simply removed the old igniter, then I snipped the wires. Using the included wire nuts I spliced the old wires with the new. The longest time was spent looking for my wire strippers. I must say that the customer service was very quick and responsive. I received the part but it was broken. One call to customer service and the new part arrived the next day. Great job!!
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worn and pitted burner caps
2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ann from Ashland, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Removed the old caps and replaced with new burner caps. The stove top looks brand new. Thank you.
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Missing screw to range door handle
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stanley from TRENTON, NJ
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The part that was ordered based on the shamanic wasn't the part that was needed for the repair. It was to short. I took the other screw for the other side and that screw was an inch longer than the screw that was ordered thru your company. I then went too a jar that I placed extra screws, nuts and bolts which l keep in my garage . I found a same length screw but a different head and it works perfectly fine. When I ordered the part from your company most of the parts did not have a photo of the part on file, or a description like how long the part is. I still ordered it because it should fit the make and model number that was posted on the shamanic that was showed to me on line.
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Ignitor would glow at orange but not white. Not enough heat to open valve to let gas run
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Fawn from MEREDITH, NH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Got the general idea off a u-tube video. Very simple and would have been even easier had I used a 1/4 in nutdriver instead of socket. Removed 2 screws (flathead) on the lower cover of oven. Removed 1 nut holding shield. Removed 1 nut holding protective trap door on rear, pulled coupling through hole and disconnected. Removed 2 nuts holdin g ignitor. That's it. Replace everything in sequence and your done.
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Burned out igniter kit
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from MARSEILLES, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I simply followed the you tube video and had the new kit installed in 30 minutes.
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Oven wouldn't light. Ignitor wood glow but didn't have enough amperage to open the safety valve to let the gas flow
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from FULTON, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This was relatively easy repair remove the bottom tray of your oven remove the screws from the two guards remove the old ignitor replace and reinstall in reverse
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Oven wouldn't heat
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Patricia from Naugatuck, CT
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
First I unplugged the stove. I gently removed the two screws that hold the old element in place. I snipped the wires and then twisted the new wires with the stove wires and placed caps on wires. GENTLY replaced new element with screws. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Then I tested the oven after I put it back together and the oven works perfectly.
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The oven wouldn't reach operating temperature.
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donald from Racine, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Remove the sheet metal that covers the burner and the igniter. For me this was two screws located in the rear of the oven. Two 1/4 inch screws held the igniter in place. I then cut the wires on the faulty igniter as close to the porcelin as possible. I cut the clip off of the new igniter and stripped the ends of all 4 wires, splicing then together with the ceramic wire nuts that were included in the kit. I fed the excess wire to the rear of the stove and reattached the new igniter to its mounting bracket. Replaced sheet metal. Plugged the unit into the outlet and away it went. Worked great.
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Oven wouldn't light
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marilyn from Cypress, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
All it took was for my husband to remove the screws that held the part in place and disconnect the two wires. He then replaced the part, connected the wires and screwed the screws in. We turned the oven on and it worked perfectly.

This is our second part that we have ordered. The frist part was just as easy as the second.
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oven did not light
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Southfield, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
replace igniter
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Oven would not heat
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I first removed the oven door. I then took out the racks and removed the oven bottom. It slips out easily however, you need to take the door off. The burner cover came next. I used the 3/8 nut driver to remove the four screws. This exposed the burner and electric igniter. Two screws hold the burner tube in place. I recommend removing the burner tube due to the screws holding the ignitor will more than likely need to be cut off. Once the tube is out and you have disconnected the plug for the ignitor you will need to check the voltage at the plug (120 VAC). Place the voltage meter test leads in the oven side of the ignitor plug and set the oven to heat up. If everything is OK the meter should read 120 Volts AC. Turn the oven off and remove the leads. Take the old ignitor off the burner tube and replace it with the new ignitor and plug it back into the oven. Push the plug and wires back into the hole in the burner well and put the burner back in the oven well. Once it is all back in and bolted down try the oven again to verify the ignitor works. Replace the remaining oven parts in reverse order of removal.
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gas oven would not come on when you turned the knob on to light you could hear it click but wouldn't light
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeff from okc, OK
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
e-mailed my problem and reply was igniter our gas valve took a gamble and ordered the igniter. easy fix. two srews and plug in wires.
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Stove would not light
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from PortChester, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I removed the two screws that hold the element in place then I had to splice the wires because the connector was not right and used the two wire nuts that came with the unit .
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All Instructions for the RGBS300DM2BB
61 - 75 of 270