EasyApplianceParts is now PartSelect! We've merged our sites to provide a better shopping experience for you.   Full Details
✖

Find Parts

Parts Departments

Top Model Types

Top Brands

Repair Help

Expert Repair Videos

Keep typing for more specific results...

RGB790DEP4WW General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the RGB790DEP4WW
61 - 75 of 319

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Bottom trim piece on 24 year old stove had rusted. Replace trim piece was still available.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donald from FAYETTEVILLE, NY
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Very simple. Lift oven door off brackets and set on floor. Remove sheet metal screws holding on existing trim piece, Clean area beneath trim.
Put new trim piece on, don't tighten any of the screws until all have been started as some adjustment is needed to align the holes for the screws.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
oven racks very old and writing on knobs worn ff
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Patricia from SAN JOSE, CA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Very was ti replace racks and knobs. Very fast mail service
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
everything worked on the stove except for the oven
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donald from Elkhart, IN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Since I'm not very mechanical I had my service manager from work come to my house and fiqure out the problem. By using an electrical meter he found that there was no continuity in the igniter. So being the mechanical guy I am I watched him take out 2 screws that secured the the piece of metal that covers the bottom part of the stove. He p ulled that part out and from there it was 2 screws to release it from the back of the stove and 2 more to disconnect the igniter from the burner tube. We ordered the part and it arrived in 3 days. I opened the box and to my dismay it was broke. I called to tell them that it was broke and they ordered me a new one right then. I had that part the next day very grateful for that. I was able then to put it back together myself and it worked. Wife is extremely happy with me.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
rusted trim strip
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from Sarasota, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
remove screws, re-install screws
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
bottom trim had rusted out from water build-up
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • john from buford, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
disassembled bottom trim on oven door.cleaned area of excess rust and installed trim piece.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Oven did not heat
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Middlebury, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I took all of the oven racks out , then the bottom cover, over the element. I immediately saw the igniter coil was broken. I took the element out and disconnected the two wires. (I saw that the igniter coil was broken and knew that must be my problem. I got my manual out and found the part number and got on line and started shopping. I fo und part select, the price was fair and ordered it the same day. It was shipped out to me the same day I ordered it. Received it the next day and had the oven working again. Easy to order, great customer service, fast shipping department. Great job to all of you folks at Part Select. I would recommend PS to anyone that wants to save money and do it yourself. Go for it. tk middlebury IN.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Broiler would not ignite.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Victor from Hathaway Pines, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
1) Verified it was the broiler igniter that was damaged.
2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel.
3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer).
4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first.
5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further.
6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results!
7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment".
8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner.
9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line.
10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Oven igniter didn't work.
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jacklyn from HOWARD CITY, MI
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
The bolts were below the base of the oven, and very difficult to remove and replace. The directions were not applicable to our unit. The good news was the igniter was correct, even though we had to adapt the bracket.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
2 hexhead screws on back side of igniter with no room to get to them.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Clayton from NEWBERRY, MI
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
They turned out to be 1/4 inch hex head screws. Only after soaking with penetrating oil could we budge them. There must be a special tool to loosen them on the back side where there is no room to get a socket on them and since they are in the heated part of the oven they are almost welded in. We were successful, but could only get one screw back in. So never use your oven with the door left open as I did if you do not want to repeat what happened to me.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
some of electrodes not working at times,found were bad,wires had some insulation missing, clips looked burnt,found all new parts replaced
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Dana from LEEDS, AL
  • Really Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers
the electrodes on this model have to be removed before you can raise cooktop, once cooktop is raised remove wire from burner bracket, use needle nose pliers to squeeze bottom of clip,remove &replace with new parts.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Oven will not heat
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter from Danbury, CT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Checked on this website for ideas. A 20+ year repairman posted that the problem is the control valve and I should replace the igniter while I'm there. The valve was priced at $189 and the igniter $60. I decided to try the igniter first and all is well. Valve not needed.
Steps; remove; door, lower tray, and oven floor pan. Discon nect two igniter wires. Use 6mm sock to loosen gas feed tube, then lift tube up a couple of inches to access igniter screws. Remove them, and reverse process with new part. I tried to R&R the igniter without loosening the gas feed tube but it's a real PITA. Good luck, easy fix.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
broiler works/oven not so much!
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Sandra from Charlevoix, MI
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Ignitor is easily reached by removing the bottom of the oven floor. Machine screws remove easily when appliance is relatively new, but from experience, they may give you some trouble when stove is 5+ years old! Our part came in a timely fashion, even when ordered over a holiday weekend . Replace ignitor just as the old one came out-one wo rd to the wise...scrape off enough silver coating on the wires so that a good contact is insured before splicing with the wing-nut included. Having had many GE stoves, I notice that the factory-installed ignitors have a shorter and shorter life; I'll be keeping PartSelect's website handy!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Broken Ignitor
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Matt from Ladera Ranch, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
My repair was easy. The hardest part was trying to get the 2 small screws off and on the igniter. You need small hands or a small, angled socket set. I did mine with the door of my oven still on and maybe that was why I couldn't reach the screws that well. If you can do the repair with the door off, I would say that would be easier. As soon as the new piece was screwed in, it worked on the first try.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Oven Would Not Turn On.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Joan from Riverdale, NY
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Most trouble I had was removing the screws that were located under the bracket. I had to slip the oven door off first to give me more room. Very hard to get to these screws because of where they were located under the bracket. I had to twist and turn the old igniter to get to it. When finally removed, I replaced the old igniter with t he new one using my own screws. I twisted the wires together, and replaced the baffles, the oven floor, and then the door. The oven fired up wonderfully! Thank you for your prompt service for getting me the part quickly and correctly.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Oven would not heat
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Seaford, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Removed the two screws that hold the oven bottom to expose the glow element. Also removed the lower draw to get to the connections. The job was only complicated by getting to the two bolts holding the glow plug to the oven frame. Getting them off and getting the new plug on was not easy with standard tools. There was not a lot of room to work the hex bolts and i wound up cutting the old unit out and attaching the bolts to the frame and cutting slots in the new unit so I could slot it in. That worked. The glow plug was the problem and the oven came right on.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
All Instructions for the RGB790DEP4WW
61 - 75 of 319