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RGB533BEKB General Electric Range - Instructions
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finish on old oven bottom was damaged
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
-
ERNEST from MANCHESTER, NJ
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Ordered part from customer friendly Part Select and received the replacement part within a few days, and installed it promptly. Wife is happy and stopped grumbling about oven bottom unsightly defect! Small price to pay for a happy wife! Ernie
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Oven bottom badly marred after 16 years.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
-
Charlie from NAPLES, FL
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Two set screws in rear; removed easily with a screwdriver. Old oven floor lifted out easily; new oven floor dropped in just as easily; set screws re-installed. Done. Pleasantly surprised at how easy this went.
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Oven wouldn't light
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
-
David from FLAGSTAFF, AZ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Remove interior bottom of oven, remove igniter screws, unplug igniter. reinstall igniter.
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some of electrodes not working at times,found were bad,wires had some insulation missing, clips looked burnt,found all new parts replaced
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
-
Dana from LEEDS, AL
- Really Easy
- More than 2 hours
-
Pliers
the electrodes on this model have to be removed before you can raise cooktop, once cooktop is raised remove wire from burner bracket, use needle nose pliers to squeeze bottom of clip,remove &replace with new parts.
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Removal reinstalling
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
-
Thomas from HAMPSTEAD, NH
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Removal old fashioned oven door handle took time after removing the oven door. New replacement handle was easy to install! Try to reinstall was long and finally got installed after 5 attempts due hinge on right side issue
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Getting thew the back
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
-
William from BOSCOBEL, WI
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I put it in the same way tuck it out
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BASE OF BULB BROKE OFF & WELDED TO SOCKET
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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NEIL from ROCKY POINT, NY
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.
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Broken thermostat.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
-
Nicholas from SIERRA VISTA, AZ
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
This gas range had an oven that would heat, but it wouldn't hold it at a stable temperature. Say you set it at 300 degrees. Well, it'd head up to broiling temperatures, then drop down to like 200 degrees, then 400 degrees (You get the picture).
My guess was that the thermostat, given that this oven was ~20+ years old, was no l ... Read more onger able to detect correctly the temperature inside the oven.
The thermostat sensor is made up of the housing (The part that sits behind the oven temperature control knob), a long wire (so you can route it to the inside of the oven), and the probe itself (Which I boldly assume is the thing that measures the temperature inside the oven)
TL;DR:
-Pull oven from wall.
-Turn off electric and gas.
-Remove the grates and drip pans off the top.
-Pry the range's cooktop up (It's on like a hinge and is designed to lift up. You have to play with it a bit with like a screwdriver on the sides (One on each side). If you pry just a tad, you'll notice these prongs that act like detents. (LIFT CAREFULLY, the heating elements are still connected via their gas lines! They're flexible, but don't man handle the thing!
-Once that's up, it's time to finally start removing the thermostat which is the knob that controls the oven temperature. Pull the plastic knob off which will expose the two screws you need to detach it from the oven (Phillips head). Be super careful. You don't want to drop these screws. You'll be struggling to fish them out of the empty space that sits between the thermostat and plastic knob.
-Once that's loose, open the oven door and detach the thermostat from the back of the oven. Recycle the prongs holding the old thermostat sensor for the new one.
-Go to the back of the range. Like the actual back part of it.
-Frustrate yourself with pulling out the thermostat through the route it's been put in. It's difficult to route it through the tight spaces, but not complicated. Keep a mental note of this route and copy it with the new thermostat that you have to install.
-Don't fret, when it comes time to wire the new thermostat sensor, it's actually a lot easier than you would think to find that little hole in the back of the range that you have to slot it through. It's just slightly covered by insulation. Pulling it slightly aside, you'll see it very easily.
-Screw in the thermostat housing at the front of the oven.
-Frustrate yourself again by routing the wire while taking care not to bend the probe (This is my assumption not to bend it and I think it's a safe assumption to make)
-Find that tiny little hold in the back of the range again, insert the probe through it, then use those recycled prongs to hook that probe into place.
-Yay, you're almost done.
-Reinsert knob on thermostat.
-Turn gas and electricity back on.
-Give it a test run to see if you did it right.
-if it still doesn't work, then it might not have been the thermostat giving you problems.
-If it does work, put everything back the way it was.
-You're done.
My guess was that the thermostat, given that this oven was ~20+ years old, was no l ... Read more onger able to detect correctly the temperature inside the oven.
The thermostat sensor is made up of the housing (The part that sits behind the oven temperature control knob), a long wire (so you can route it to the inside of the oven), and the probe itself (Which I boldly assume is the thing that measures the temperature inside the oven)
TL;DR:
-Pull oven from wall.
-Turn off electric and gas.
-Remove the grates and drip pans off the top.
-Pry the range's cooktop up (It's on like a hinge and is designed to lift up. You have to play with it a bit with like a screwdriver on the sides (One on each side). If you pry just a tad, you'll notice these prongs that act like detents. (LIFT CAREFULLY, the heating elements are still connected via their gas lines! They're flexible, but don't man handle the thing!
-Once that's up, it's time to finally start removing the thermostat which is the knob that controls the oven temperature. Pull the plastic knob off which will expose the two screws you need to detach it from the oven (Phillips head). Be super careful. You don't want to drop these screws. You'll be struggling to fish them out of the empty space that sits between the thermostat and plastic knob.
-Once that's loose, open the oven door and detach the thermostat from the back of the oven. Recycle the prongs holding the old thermostat sensor for the new one.
-Go to the back of the range. Like the actual back part of it.
-Frustrate yourself with pulling out the thermostat through the route it's been put in. It's difficult to route it through the tight spaces, but not complicated. Keep a mental note of this route and copy it with the new thermostat that you have to install.
-Don't fret, when it comes time to wire the new thermostat sensor, it's actually a lot easier than you would think to find that little hole in the back of the range that you have to slot it through. It's just slightly covered by insulation. Pulling it slightly aside, you'll see it very easily.
-Screw in the thermostat housing at the front of the oven.
-Frustrate yourself again by routing the wire while taking care not to bend the probe (This is my assumption not to bend it and I think it's a safe assumption to make)
-Find that tiny little hold in the back of the range again, insert the probe through it, then use those recycled prongs to hook that probe into place.
-Yay, you're almost done.
-Reinsert knob on thermostat.
-Turn gas and electricity back on.
-Give it a test run to see if you did it right.
-if it still doesn't work, then it might not have been the thermostat giving you problems.
-If it does work, put everything back the way it was.
-You're done.
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The LP gas oven would not get to nor hold temperature
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
-
Ken from MIDDLETOWN, OH
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Followed you tube instructions I found on line via parts select recommendations.
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my ignitor stopped working ,then the gas pressure regulator and safety valve needed replacing.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
-
Myra from SCOTLAND, MD
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
Super easy for me! My son-in-law is a contractor, I gave him the parts and let him do the work.
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oven would not come on
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Carl from Bristol, VT
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
remove the door,racks,cover over burner,burner,element,replaced element and rest in reversed order.
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igniter wouldn.t work
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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don from rohnert park, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
had to take back off of oven because of the connector and the plug end insert had the wrong pin so i had to take it apart and use old ones then i put the assembly in /and put oven back together
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Screws fell into a black hole and trouble threading the thermostate
4 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Lenora from Crowley, TX
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
My husband and I probably could have done the repair in 15 minutes except for the difficulty lifting up the range top, dropping the screws into the range where they could not be retreived, threading the thermostate into the little holes from the top to the inside of the oven and then trying to hook the range top back into place. Even with
... Read more
all the difficulties we still accomplished the task in one hour. Thank goodness we had 4 extra screws that worked (actually only takes 2 but of the 6 we had, 4 fell into a place you could not reach into). Glue on the end of the screw driver finally kept the screws from falling into the black hole. It was an adventure and would do it again.
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Oven would not light-element glowed
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
David from Huntington Woods, MI
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
First I removed the botoom drawer.
Second, removed three 1/4 in (head size) screws and removed the reflector pan from the bottom of the oven.
Third I removed the three racks in the main part of the oven and then the two slot head screws that retain the oven floor. I then removed the oven floor.
Four, now that I had access t ... Read more o the ignitor, I removed the two 1/4 (head size) screws that mounted the ignitor to the burner.
Fifth I disconnected the wire plug which is located in the lower section of the oven. I was unable to route the wire with it's connector on out of the oven, so I just snipped the wires and took it out in two pieces.
Installation was just the reversal of this with the obvious exception of snipping the wires. I was able to route the wires differently so that I did not have to pass the connector behind any restrictions.
Finally afte all was reassembled, I did an ops check and everything worked just fine.
Second, removed three 1/4 in (head size) screws and removed the reflector pan from the bottom of the oven.
Third I removed the three racks in the main part of the oven and then the two slot head screws that retain the oven floor. I then removed the oven floor.
Four, now that I had access t ... Read more o the ignitor, I removed the two 1/4 (head size) screws that mounted the ignitor to the burner.
Fifth I disconnected the wire plug which is located in the lower section of the oven. I was unable to route the wire with it's connector on out of the oven, so I just snipped the wires and took it out in two pieces.
Installation was just the reversal of this with the obvious exception of snipping the wires. I was able to route the wires differently so that I did not have to pass the connector behind any restrictions.
Finally afte all was reassembled, I did an ops check and everything worked just fine.
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Ignitor would glow at orange but not white. Not enough heat to open valve to let gas run
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Fawn from MEREDITH, NH
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Got the general idea off a u-tube video. Very simple and would have been even easier had I used a 1/4 in nutdriver instead of socket. Removed 2 screws (flathead) on the lower cover of oven. Removed 1 nut holding shield. Removed 1 nut holding protective trap door on rear, pulled coupling through hole and disconnected. Removed 2 nuts holdin
... Read more
g ignitor. That's it. Replace everything in sequence and your done.
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