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RGB533BEKB General Electric Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Hole burned through deflector oven and metal dropped onto igniter and burned it out
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Scott from ARDMORE, PA
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed bottom shelf from inside oven, turned it obj and replaced the oven deflector with only a screwdriver
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Oven would not turn off due to inoperative thermostat
7 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Timothy from Lake Elsinore, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
1st ensure thermostat is intact, I thought it was broken but upon further investigation I noticed that one of the screws that hold the thermostat in place had came loose which cause the thermostat knob not to be able to turn the thermostat stem. Re-installed thermostat mounting screw and it worked just fine.
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Burner was bad and gas pressure valve stuck open.
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Chuck from WESLEY, AR
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Shut off gas, bled excess and simply removed old defective parts and replaced with new exact replacement parts. Made final air adjustments after first checking for gas leaks. No problems at all. A good rainy day job!
Other Parts Used:
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The igniter would glow but the gas would not come on.
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joyce from SALEM, WV
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I followed the video instructions on the site. I unplugged the power supply and turned off the gas supply. I then removed the plate out of the bottom of the oven to get to the igniter. Then I removed the screws and unplugged the igniter to remove the old part. I had to purchase two porcelain wire nuts because the new part connection di
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d not match up with the old connection. The repairs were quite simple and I had my oven back and working in no time. I am glad I read the comments from others because I thought it was my gas control valve, but they were right it was my igniter. This saved me time and money.
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old blackened oven racks
8 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Roger from Falls Church, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Replaced old with new.
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Burner on stove not working correctly
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Trevor from Eldersburg, MD
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Order parts and installed - no tools needed - completed repairs less than 1 minute
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Oven would not ignite
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Todd from Falcon, CO
- A Bit Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
First I removed the broiler from the bottom of the oven, then pulled the oven way from the wall to unplug it. I then removed the two screws that hold the igniter element in place. Ironically, the plug GE manufactures is reversed so i had to strip the plug and go end and reverse the wires to attach them to the oven. I used ceramic wire att
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achments as plastic would surely have melted. Replaced the screws, replaced the broilers, plugged it in, replaced against the wall and it fired up.
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GAS OVEN WOULDN'T LIGHT
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Harold from BUCKLEY, MI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
With the model number I wnet on Parts select site and located the part through the problem finder selection,(GREATFEATURE!) (74% the problem is the Flat Style Oven Igniter) (watched the video on installation and compared my unit with the one in the video). The video explained installation completely and made it very simple. The only criti
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c is that the oven door can be removed completely to make it easier to get in the the oven, opening part way and lifting up the oven door will come completely off. Also the broiler pan drawer can be taken completely out if you would need to get in this way for some reason. Final note: I called the local GE dealer Parts dept- they would have had to order the part anyway and it would have cost three times what Parts Select charged me.Save $$$ great! .
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Oven door gasket was missing.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Eugene from TUSCALOOSA, AL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
I removed the original gasket clips with pliers. I installed the new gasket by aligning the clips with the holes around the door and pressed into place. Easy fix!
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none
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Laughlin, NV
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
slid the old ones out and slid the new ones in. done
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Oven ,Going on/off intermittently" Very Dangerous during day /at night especially when all is asleep /away from home,not knowing!
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Leroy-Anthony from Jamaica, NY
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
To: Remove.Four(4)nuts. Six(6)screws. Two (2) clips. To:Reinstall reverse process. "Very simple stright forward, and most enjoyable."
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The bottom strip had become rusty and looking badly
5 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carolyn from North Port, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
I pulled the oven door off the hinges and took the bolts out of the bottom of the over that were holding the strip on. I then pulled the strip off and replaced it with the new on. I replaced the bolts and then replaced the door on the hinges.
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Hard to remove screws & no instructions that a heat shield had to be transferred from old to new
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Peter from REDDING, CT
- Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
One of the initial two screws for the oven bottom would not budge. Finally used a socket set to loosen it up. Upon taking out the old bottom I turned it over & saw a heat shield attached. I have no idea if you can order a new bottom with a new shield already attached or not, but I had no idea it was there until I took the old part out. Ou
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t of the eight screws attaching the shied, four of them were also difficult to loosen up. But in the end the new bottom looks great !
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Replace glowbar igniter
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from Espanola, NM
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Wrench set
Removed the old glowbar's two screws. Didn't take a mental photo of its proper placcement (or a real one, which would've been smart). Removed screws holding 1) a heat protection plate, and 2) wire harness plate. Installed the new glowbar, hopefully, the right way - with its heat-plate facing the gasline of the over/broiler. Reinstalled th
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e heat protection plate and wire harness plate. Hasn't blown up yet!
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Over not heating
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Chris from Inglewood, CA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Wrench set
1. Removed oven door..
2. Slide out floor plate of over.
3. Removed four screws securing the flame shield.
4. removed the two screws attaching the heating element to the burner.
5. Pulled heating element wires out of rear hole in oven and detached plug.
6. Attached new element and reassembled in reverse order.
2. Slide out floor plate of over.
3. Removed four screws securing the flame shield.
4. removed the two screws attaching the heating element to the burner.
5. Pulled heating element wires out of rear hole in oven and detached plug.
6. Attached new element and reassembled in reverse order.
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