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RF764104 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the RF764104
31 - 45 of 114

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Surface Element contacts when they were insert into the Terminal Block became burned up they were not making any contact to heat up.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Sean from Anaheim, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the one screw that hold the terminal block in place. I then pulled the terminal block out about 3 inches and unscrewed the two screws and disconnected the two wires. Then I got the new terminal block and re-attached the two wires with the two screws. Then I screwed the terminal blocked with the one screw and then I insert ed the 8" Surface Element and I turned it on and it heated up very quickly. It works better than it has in many years.
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No problems
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Darlene from NORTH AUGUSTA, SC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
lift eye slide in bowl and trim ring, put the eye back down,
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Customer service
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Patricia from San Jose, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Customer service is great. Fast shipping. Great communication. I have them bookmarked from a previous order. Same good service as the first time. Thank you.
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Range element was intermittent - bad contact at wire
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ron from Carrollton, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Drilled out the screw on one wire as it was corroded to the metal socket. Sanded both wire terminations. Installed wires into terminal block. Reassembled all loose parts and installed into burner slot. Worked perfectly.
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The small element blew out consequently shorting out the infinite switch.
3 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Susan from Bend, OR
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The very first thing we did was turned the circuit breaker off and unplugged the range.
My husband removed the back panel and unplugged the switch. Drew a diaghram of the color coded wires. When we received the new one he broke the extension bar off to fit the knob, plugged it in and we were back in business. It was very easy for m y husband as he is a mechanic (millwright). However, if you are mechanically inclined it is an easy fix.
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Knob/switch would not turn right front burner on at all!
3 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from West Liberty, KY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Pulled range out from the wall. Unplugged cord from outlet. Removed old knob, removed two phillips screws a very top of chrome trim, removed six nut-head screws from back to reveal the switches...removed two set screws from the front at knob base. Visually checked to make sure wiring post of new switch matched the old one. There was enoug h slack in the wiring to remove one wire at a time and connect it to the new switch in its appropriate place. Put new switch in the panel and secured with the two set screws. Select the bushing that would take up the slack for the old knob to fit on the new switch stem. Held new stem at its base with pliers and used another pair of pliers to snap the stem at appropriate length. (The new stem could not be broken off short enough to have the knob as flush to the panel as the other knobs...this was the only negative factor in the repair) Replaced nut-head screws and phillips screws. I was especially pleased with the quick delivery of the part...even without special shipping rates I received the part in less than 18 hours from the time I ordered it online!
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Halogen element staying on
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Arthur from Indian Harbour Beach, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.
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BASE OF BULB BROKE OFF & WELDED TO SOCKET
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • NEIL from ROCKY POINT, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.
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Corrosion of terminal block led to poor performance of elements.
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barnaby from Alameda, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplugged oven from mains.

Removed screw holding terminal block to oven top. Used screwdriver to remove clip holding protective card to terminal block. Removed Philips screws holding wires onto terminal block.

Replacing the terminal block was just doing the above instructions in reverse. The only thing different wa s to put the speed clip on the range top before attaching the block to the range top.
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no power going to burner when switch is on, switch bad
2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Woolwich Twp., NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My kn ob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.
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Part worn out
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William L. from Houma, LA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed old terminal block by removing one mounting screw. Removed two wires from block. Installed new terminal block by reversing procedure.
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Switch - and the connection wire to the burner
2 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • andrew from langdon, ND
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch ) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.
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Burner only worked on High and very low temperature setting.
2 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Duvall, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.
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burner wouldn't heat
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jeff from monroe, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I removed the burner, then the chrome dish. The nuts for the wires were rusted to the terminals, so I had to break the module apart and grind the nuts off.After that the new module went fine.
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Burner not heating properly
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Kokomo, IN
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and re move the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.
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All Instructions for the RF764104
31 - 45 of 114