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RF725GL2G Hotpoint Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the RF725GL2G
16 - 30 of 114

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Old infinite switch WB21X36771 broke...heating element stopped heating
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from PLANO, TX
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
1. Bought replacement part said to replace old switch.
2. Pulled old switch out.
3. Replacement part did not match. Would have to take entire switch panel apart to change to this part.
4. Multiple-part instructions very poor. For my switch unreadable.
5. Old part was "push to turn". New part was not.
6. Knob did not fit new switch. Old shaft was "D" shaped. New is square.
7. Gave up. Need to call repair shop.
8. Hope this helps.
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Lost the oven
7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michelle A. from Pittsburgh, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replaced the clock control lens with buttons. Saved us from purchasing a new oven. A Sears repair man told us to get model number and look online for the part we needed, and we found PartsSelect. Great! Very happy.
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Broiler element would not work/heat up
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kelvin from Helena, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
First I turned the power off at the breaker box. Then I removed the two screws at the rear of the oven and un-secured the three clips(top of stove) that all hold the element in place. Carefully I pulled the element out of the back of the stove to expose and pull out the electrical wires and their connectors. At this point I used the multi meter to CONFIRM no power. With no power present I un-clipped the electrical connections and then did all the above steps in reverse. 15 - 20 minutes total repair time.
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two large burners wouldn't heat or would smoke even after cleaning
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lois from KNOXVILLE, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
i really wanted a new stove, but budget wouldn't permit; so just had to insert the new ones and they work great with level cooking.
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Electric Burner Control Broken
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from VINELAND, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring!
Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up!
Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up!
Works fine! Now all burners work again!
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infinite switch would not shut off at times.
6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ervin from Milford, DE
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First shut the power to the stove,then had to slide the stove out so I could get at the back to remove the panel screws.Once you have the back off remove the knob on the front.Under the knob is 2 phillips screws that you need to remove.Next I took the new switch and matched up the wires to the old switch.Reinstall is the reverse.Once the switch is in place you must remove the excess shaft to match the length of the old one.This is done with the use of 2 pliers,you grasp the shaft with both pliers and snap it off where you need it.The kit comes with spacers so you have got to match up the right one so the switch is solid on the shaft.This finishes the project,next turn the power back on and check that all is working ok.Job finished.
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F2 error code when oven was set at a higher temperature.
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rachele from OCEANSIDE, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip discon nected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.
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burner would not stay heated had to wiggle the burner to make heat
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marjorie from Swanton, MD
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Replaced with the new burner works like new. Thanks a bunch!
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A tenant left the Drip Bowls in an uncleanable state. I could not find a suitable replacement..
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from SACRAMENTO, CA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Most trainable people can pull out the heating elements and replace the Drip Bowls. The great thing about the ordered drip bowls was that they FIT! Most drip bowls sold as easy replacements for GE or Hotpoint appliances do not fit and wobble the heating element or drip bowls. If not fitting correctly, the tenant usually destroys the he ating element and the drip bowl.
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Element burnt out
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jean from Rayville, LA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Ordered new part on-line for less than 1/2 of local price...including shipping. Local shop would have taken 10 days for part at twice the price. Mine arrived in 72 hours...and Sunday dinner was sav ed!
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The temperature indicator light on the oven was broken.
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jewel from Nacogdoches, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the control panel by removing 7 screws and replaced the light indicator and lens.
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Have tried 3 different store-bought drip pan sets over the past year. None of them laid flat.
10 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jennifer from Saginaw, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Simple installation of new pans and all are level! Thank heaven! Thank you, PartSelect!
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Burners weren't heating
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • james from killingworth, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Unplugged old burner elements. Popped in new burners. Turned on the burners to test.
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Electric Stove Burner was working unreliably
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jacqueline from Austin, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
pulled out the old burner, plugged in the new burner. Turned on the power and it heated up very quickly.
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The indicator light stopped working
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Damascus, MD
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Wrench (Adjustable)
I knew the lens (which also holds the light) was broken. I also ordered the light. I flipped the circuit breaker, raised the stove top and removed the 6 nut-head screws holding the cover plate. A nut driver would have been helpful, but I got by with a 6" crescent wrench. I removed the cover. I unplugged the two wires from the old light an d plugged in the new one. I inserted the new lens and slipped the light over it. I flipped the circuit breaker on to make sure it worked. After flipping the circuit breaker off, I replaced the cover plates and the screws and lowered the stove top. I flipped the circuit breaker on. It worked!
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All Instructions for the RF725GL2G
16 - 30 of 114