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RB792DR2WW Hotpoint Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the RB792DR2WW
16 - 30 of 133

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back burner not getting hot
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Shenandoah, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
unplug stove first...take back of stove off to get to burner switch remove wires colors coded.. get new switch put wires on the same way.plug stove in test burner...very simple to replace.and save $$$$$$$$
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Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
17 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barbara from BELLEVUE, WA
  • Very Difficult
  • Less than 15 mins
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appl iance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
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Replace stove top burners (3 total)
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Bonifay, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Unplug stove first. Raised the stove top and propped up useing wooden spoon and wife assistance holding up. Pay attention to spot brackets hand to top. Removed sheet metal screws from bracket clamp holding burner in place. Removed one extension bracket from old burner and transfeered to new burner. Removeing one bracket clamp allows the other one to act like a hinge and make for easy removal and replacement. Back of burner had corresponding numbers which made it easy to replace brackets in same place as old. I carefully take one electrical wire at a time from old burner and transfeered to the new burner. Replaced burner same way it came off.
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Cooktop oil fire melted plastic parts; control defaced
12 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Gaston, OR
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Some of the original TO-9 switches were fused by the heat. I made them functional again with a cutter on a rotary tool, but to make the repair properly, I ordered the new control unit and the faceplate graphics. Note the guide tabs at the bottom and right edges when replacing the graphics. Don't plan on reusing your old graphics (unless y ou are a wizard at removing the very strong adhesive).
To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.
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new tea kettle burned out both the element and the control
9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dwight from Warrenton, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
After replacing the dual element and still having a problem with the range, I started troubleshooting the switch. Fortunately, our range has 2 dual burners, and the switches are the same, so I was able to move the switch and see the problem follow the switch (also, using a VOM, I could tell there was a short in the switch).
Since I'd already replaced the element, I only had to work on the controls, which are very easy to access.
I carefully documented all the connections (took a couple of pictures as well), and swapping out the switch took almost no time.
Lesson learned - follow the manufacturer's requirement to use only cookware with a flat bottom. This tea kettle only sat flat around the outside edge. That caused both the element and switch to blow. The "hot cooktop" light stayed on constantly, even after the element was replaced.
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Replace Oven light socket and light bulb in kitchen Range
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from TUCSON, AZ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and disc ard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!
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Small radiant wasn't working but large was.
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joan from CLEMMONS, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Ordered the dual replacement. I am 76 so I had someone else do it. It took him about 15 minutes. Just pulled the oven forward about 8" so he could lift the top up. 2 Screws to release the top. Then just removed the part and plugged in the replacement. Rescrewed the top screws and pushed the oven back.
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switch went to high setting no matter what the setting was
10 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from Glen Cove, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
took off cover, pulled all wires off switch, pushed wires on new switch, put cover back on. Whalaa..
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Red Light On
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lawrence from DECATUR, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Red Light Off
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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from DOVER, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
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The drawer support broke.
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cindy from Golden Valley, ND
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the screw from the broken piece and put the new piece on and put the screw on.
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I broke the left drawer glide on our oven
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Keith from Freeport, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I unscrewed to old glide and replaced it then re attached the screw
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I needed another oven rack. It came with two. Now I have three.
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from N ROYALTON, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I cut the box open with a utility knife and removed the grill. I then opened the oven door and rearranged the two existing racks so that the third one would go in so they all have the same distance between each of them. I slid the new rack into position. It didn't go in smoothly though as I had to push it in and out several times so that it would line up perfectly. Finally in went in all the way. Then I closed the oven door and went and sat down to think about the wonderful job I just did.
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Shorted the control panel changing bulb without shutting off power dumbass
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from BELLINGHAM, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Replaced control panel after removing original control panel facing with heat gun and Wala
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surface burner switch was burned
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • abbas from redmond, WA
  • Really Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After receiving the new swith from part select in less than four days with surface mail as they promised, it took me less than five minutes to replace the new swith with the old one. The only tools that I needed were A) a 5/16 nut driver to remove the back panel in order to get an access to the swith.B) a phillips screw driver to remove t he swith assembley from the front panel.

I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)
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All Instructions for the RB792DR2WW
16 - 30 of 133