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RB790SR2SA Hotpoint Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the RB790SR2SA
76 - 90 of 128

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Heating element burned out
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from CONCORD, MA
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Followed example on YouTube! Very easy.
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knob would not turn on burner
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Deltona, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Found knob cracked simply remove and placed a new knob on burner switch extremely easy.
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fried oven control using raid
4 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kerry from Loveland, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
replaced oven clock control ref maintenance manual, 4 screws and 8 wires. plugged in new control and op checks good.
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eye wouldnt come on
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • daniel from valentines, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
removed the top section on stove and removed the wires off swtitch and put on new one then put new switch in
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burner was inoperative
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • bryan from cocoa, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
verified switch operation , checked continuity of burner element found open ordered new part and installed next day
after extremely fast
service from partselect thank you
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Light burnt out.
2 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roscoe G from ROCHESTER, NY
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.
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Burner not heating.
1 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack from Greensboro, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Isolated to control switch.

Replaced
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8" Haliant element stopped working/burned out!
  • Gwendoline from Vero Beach, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
After watching the demonstration on YOU TUBE by two separate persons, , I felt I could accomplish this repair job by myself. After all, if a 9 months pregnant lady on YOU TUBE can do it in 15 minutes then so could I. However, my particular stove turned out to be a bit more involved, and different than those whose demonstrations I ha d viewed! .. First turn off your electrical power at the circuit breaker. There is no need to unplug the stove, just test by turning it on and observing if the display is lit or the burners come on. If it doesn't then you are good to start the repair with the power off. 1) Open the oven door, then bend over and check underneath. There are two screws one on each side at the front. Using an 8 mm socket wrench undo those screws and put them in a safe place where they wont roll away. 2) I would suggest using an old towel or an old sheet once you have the stove top lifted to cover your work surface, so if you drop any little parts that might roll away, you will be able to just pick them up without a problem. Next you will need something to prop the stove top open or someone to hold it for you. I used the box that my new element came in and that worked well. 3) Here's where my stove differed.. I had a metal retaining bar across the two front elements holding them up in place. .. I unscrewed the two small screws that held it in place at the edge of the stove. (I just did it on the side where I was replacing the element). This does not release your element just the bar so you can get access to the element. 4) Next, using your pliers you will see a couple of round washers that have teeth, these are holding a spring in place on a metal peg, this keeps the element from falling or moving out of position.. It was a bit difficult releasing the washers but I eventually did it, with my pliers, and then had to straighten the washers out for use afterwards 5) Once the washers are off, this frees the spring and allows the element to be removed. from the bar. 6)Next, I recommend taking a picture of the wiring, so you will know what goes to where. There are four wires on the old element, so I just followed the color coded placement and fasten them in the same place onto the new element. The wires are a bit stiff to remove, and if you are using pliers be careful as they are fragile and could break. 6) When I removed my GE replacement element from the packaging, it turned out to be a little different, and did not have the two metal pegs on it. In order to make it fit so I could do the repair. I unscrewed the two pegs from the old element, then counting around the outside holes on the new element to get them in the exact same place, I then attempted to screw them in.. This was the difficult part as they did not easily fit, and I had to ream out the holes to get the posts to screw into the new element. 6) Once that was done, the rest is easy just putting it back together the same way you took it apart. With the pegs screwed in place and the four wiring clips put on the new element, then it should not take long to complete. Next fit the spring over the metal peg first, then put the peg through the hole on the retaining bar. Make sure you get them lined up in the correct position. If you don't then they will be out of alignment with the Ring marking on the glass surface. Check this before you get it all put back together. The retaining bar has four holes in it, so you will see what I mean. The metal pegs on my element went into two opposing holes. Once that is done, the spring goes over the peg, then the peg goes into the retaining bar, and lastly, the small round washer fits the bottom of the peg to keep the spring held tight and the element in place on the metal retaining bar. You are almost done. Next simply put the retaining bar back up, make sure your element lines up on the top of your stove in the position it was before, then put the two small screws
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Burner Would Not Turn Off
  • BILLY from WEBSTER, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Replace control switch
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burn out switches
  • Thomas from Hinesville, GA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Pull stove out from the wall unplug it remove the old switches and replaced them withe new one. they work just fine.
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The electronic board controls failed to illuminate or work after very strong power surge associated with lightening. The stove top burners still worked fine but not the clock and controlls for the oven.
  • Leon from Cullowhee, NC
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I found a video on Youtube with a similar circuit board repair and decided that I could probably do it. First and most important is to be certain the range is disconnected from its electric circuit. I did this by turning off the breaker at the electrical panel and then unplugging the range. Second, I removed a panel (four screws) on the back of my stove to expose the circuit board, Next I removed the board (four screws) without disconnecting the wiring. Then I removed the flexible plastic covering from the board which has the control button identities on it. This was the most difficult part because the glue was very sticky and I did not want to tear the cover. After removal, I stuck the plastic covering (still sticky) onto the new circuit board and made sure the buttons were in the correct position. Then, I unplugged the wires one at a time from the old circuit board and made sure I plugged them into the new board in the correct position. Finally, I reattached the new board and the back panel on the stove. This repair was easy and no problem for the average "do it yourself" type.
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Shorted Control Unit -
  • Gerald from Plantsville, CT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Control unit was easy to remove ,wires color coded-the face plate(key pad) needed to be separated from the old unit. Carefully used a hair dryer to warm the decal. . . Secured the old unit gently in a vise, warmed ( and separated slowly, with a razor blade and thin putty knife(patience). . Once removed, applied to the new unit. . . 5 Stars to partselect for service. . . . Turned a $400 repair into $100 do-it your self. Partselect will be my 1st "go to" from now-on.
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Right front burner not getting hot
  • Cory from Honesdale, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
After searching the internet for a cause for the burner not getting hot it looked as though it was the burner switch. I ordered the switch and installed it. Behold it still did not work. I then ordered the burner, installed it and it worked. So I had a 50/50 chance as to which part was the problem. This was my first stove repair and I found it easy to do. Finding something to hold up the ceramic cooktop took the most time. I cut a piece of wood to prop it up while I replaced the burner.
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The middle of the element quit working.
  • Ruth Ann from New Columbia, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Took the old burner out, tranferred the wires from old to new. Installed the new burner. Works fine.
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one leg of the terminal block was loose and overheated under load.the terminal block melted and could have caused a fire.
  • brendan from lebanon, NH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections per iodically as to avoid another situation like this .
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All Instructions for the RB790SR2SA
76 - 90 of 128