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RB757WH4WW Hotpoint Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the RB757WH4WW
1 - 15 of 337

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Burner bowls needed replacement
488 of 507 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tom from North Prairie, WI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Very easy repair, Pulled burner coil out, removed old burner bowl. Put in new burner bowl, plugged burner coil back in... easy as 1,2,3
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Burner Bowl Needed Replaced
524 of 693 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Knoxville, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Removed burner element and put in bowl
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Lower bake Element would not heat.
229 of 262 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from Nassau, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
First I slid the stove out and unpluged it, then removed two screws,slid out element, disconected two wires, slid new element in to place, pluged two wires in ,put into place and installed two screws, pluged stove back in, and turned on to try. Works perfect.
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Burned out block
302 of 527 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Americus from Pittsburgh, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Watched a repairman do it the last time for $200.00. This time I unplugged the stove, unscrewed four screw nuts holding the upper rear cover, unplugged old wires, reconnected new ones, fed them thru to the front, attached them to the new block, screwed the block into place, replaced back cover, stuck the element into place, made my little brother plug it back in and turn it on first. It worked. Cost me $20.00 to do what the repairman did the last time. I also replaced the reflector pans. No-brainer.
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Burner bowls were rusty and unsalvageable. Surface element wasn't heating.
221 of 289 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marguerite from Palm Harbour, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Removed all surface elements, threw away old burner bowls, put the 3 older surface elements back in place and inserted the new element.

The burner bowls look great. Now I won't wait so long to replace.

Thanks.
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couldn't find correct burner bowls anywhere
241 of 466 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sheril from Rockaway, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
very easy..pull out burner, slide new one in..like a plug.

none of the "replacement" burner bowls i found at
store like home depot/ bed bath and beyond and such didn't fit.. so much for universal sizing..

thank you parts select.

a very satisfied customer
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The stove's bowl were burned and a mess.
219 of 438 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Martin from Tewksbury, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Pulled out burner and put new bowls in. Looks like a new stove!
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Replaced old drip bowls
217 of 438 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Eowell, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took 5 minutes to replace the 4 bowls. Ordered the bowls one day & they arrived the next day All went perfect.
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The switches failed on both front burners.
97 of 108 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marc from Columbia, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Remove nobs from both switches.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
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Broken heating element
75 of 93 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from anna, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
1)Turn off power to stove
2)remove 2 bolts holding heating element
3)pull element out of the back of the oven about 8" so that the wire connects is visable
4)pull wire clips off of heating element and remove element from the oven
5)put wire clips on the new heating element
6)push new heating element back into the holes in the back of the oven
7)screw botls back into the oven holding the heating element in place
8)Turn power back on
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Blown Oven Control Board
56 of 64 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Julien from Barnhart, MO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After removing the back of the range the oven control board was visible and accessible by removing four nuts. There was some resistance removing the leads from the oven coils and light-bulb mechanisms but with some leverage and pliers they came loose. The only challenge was the face plate of the unit is attached using adhesive and neede d to be carefully peeled off and added to the new oven control board. Getting this right was just a matter of taking time and lining up the components correctly. After applying the face, the new control board went right in. I reattached the back, plugged the unit back in, and the over has worked great for the past week. Part select being able to identify the part numbers listed from the component likely saved me at least $100 of having a GE certified repair technician come in.
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burner was shorting out
47 of 49 people found this instruction helpful.
  • douglas from louisville, KY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
unplugged unit pulled it away from wall took off the backplates traced wire to plug replaced with part ordered very smooth operation. the most impressive thing to me was i ordered part on computer and it was at my door in 30 hours awesome.
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terminal block melted
56 of 77 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jonathan from willow springs, IL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. U nscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient
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Burner was constantly at high heat
45 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rick from Avon Park, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed the rear cover from the stove then removed the knob and two screws on the front panel that hold the control in place. I then took the wires off the old control one at a time and placed them on the new control. Then I placed the control in position and tightened the two screws on the front panel, replaced the knob and screwed t he back panel in place.
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after lightning cooktop worked oven did not
47 of 57 people found this instruction helpful.
  • robert from OXFORD, CT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
called service co. and described problem while i was looking at parts diagram and he agreed with my feeling what part got fried. he told me the part would be 183.00 plus labor and drive time. when i told him i was looking at the part on line for 65 dollars he hung up on me. i recieved the part and was slightly dissapointed to know there was a sepperate adhesive overlay. i saw that it was a sepperate part but if i knew it was adhesive i would have spent the extra 20 dollars for a new one. but, to my surprise the old one peeled off easily and gently re-apllied it to the new conrol board alighning it well seemed to be the trickiest part of the job. took the five wires with connectors out of the old one and inserted them into the same place on the new one. removed the old one from the frame (4 pan phillp sheet metal screws) and then screwed the new wired control board in. plugged in the unit and pressed the bake button and then mixed the brownie batter. replaced the back panel cover. 65 dollars and 15 minutes.

thanks

bob
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All Instructions for the RB757WH4WW
1 - 15 of 337