RB7342J6 Hotpoint Range - Instructions
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no problem liners for oven to protect oven from cleaning
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Shirley from ZEPHYRHILLS, FL
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
apply liner on bottom liner of oven
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Oven/ No Heat
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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A K from LITHIA SPRINGS, GA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Partselect made this job a breeze. Due to the user friendly process to order and receive the part. I repaired the stove after turning off the breaker in the main box. There were two screws that held the baking unit in place, removed them and then replaced with new unit.
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Bad switch plus a disintegrating element
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
John from Merriam Woods, MO
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Moved into a house built in 1976 about 7 years ago that came with an old but nice looking GE electric stove.
Stove worked well until about a year ago when the switch for the 8" element became erratic. Having been raised where DIYS was SOP I didn't even consider calling for help instead, armed with the stove model number, I went to th ... Read more e internet (How on earth did I ever survive before internet?) and found this site where I quickly found the exploded view of my stove, IDed the switch, ordered and received it within a day or so. Fantastic turn around time!
Now I've never ever worked on an electric stove so I was quite methodical in my approach.
First I read the instructions (you know, when all else fails…) that came with the new switch, then I pulled the stove out, unplugged it and removed the tin back that covers the switches. I drew a diagram of the old switch orientation and which wires attached to what. Then I disconnected the wires, removed the knob and the two screws hiding behind it that hold the switch to the stove.
Oops, the new switch was not identical to the old!!
First: I noticed was that the stem for the knob was longer BUT they proved break off notches so that it can be shortened.
Second: the stem on the old switch was a half round while the new stem was square. I tried the 'half round' knob on the square stem and it went on firmly. Nothing ventured nothing gained.
Third: the terminal orientation did not match. So armed with my diagram and the instructions I made sure I knew which terminal was which (they are labeled). Once assured I knew what went where (I made notes) I installed the new switch and attached the wires (following my notes).
Being an optimist I reinstalled the tin back, plugged the stove in and pushed it back into position before (with my legs, arms and fingers crossed) I tested the switch (which was not easy considering the position I was in). Lo and behold, no puff of smoke and…ta-da…everything worked as it should.
All in all, upon receiving the switch the whole thing took less than 30 minutes.
Recent.
Less than two weeks ago one of the 6" elements fell apart, still worked but lost the supports that rest on the trim ring. Back to the internet to ordered a new element and new trim rings (just for the cosmetics). Again great service, I think I received my order the second day.
Along with the element they also supply new screws plus the spring clips which hold the ceramic insulator together. There's only two wires to contend with so its easy to determine which is the left wire and which is the right. The old terminal screws were locked in pretty good so I used pliers to hold the terminal while loosening them. There's very little slack in the wires so it was a tad awkward reattaching them to the new element.
I did notice that the threaded hole on the new element seemed to be slightly larger than the old. I noticed this when I used the old screws, one would tighten, the other did not so I replaced with the screws they supplied (Duh!). Well I do have an excuse, the new screws were longer which I feared would prevent the insulator from 'closing'.
I probably spent the most time attaching the insulator. I found I needed to fiddle with position of the terminals before the two halves of the insulator would meet. I splayed the wires out slightly then cocked the wire ends slightly so that the wires would neatly leave the side of the insulator. I also adjusted the terminals and the bendable wire part on the element so that they were parallel to each other.
ANYBODY can do this
Stove worked well until about a year ago when the switch for the 8" element became erratic. Having been raised where DIYS was SOP I didn't even consider calling for help instead, armed with the stove model number, I went to th ... Read more e internet (How on earth did I ever survive before internet?) and found this site where I quickly found the exploded view of my stove, IDed the switch, ordered and received it within a day or so. Fantastic turn around time!
Now I've never ever worked on an electric stove so I was quite methodical in my approach.
First I read the instructions (you know, when all else fails…) that came with the new switch, then I pulled the stove out, unplugged it and removed the tin back that covers the switches. I drew a diagram of the old switch orientation and which wires attached to what. Then I disconnected the wires, removed the knob and the two screws hiding behind it that hold the switch to the stove.
Oops, the new switch was not identical to the old!!
First: I noticed was that the stem for the knob was longer BUT they proved break off notches so that it can be shortened.
Second: the stem on the old switch was a half round while the new stem was square. I tried the 'half round' knob on the square stem and it went on firmly. Nothing ventured nothing gained.
Third: the terminal orientation did not match. So armed with my diagram and the instructions I made sure I knew which terminal was which (they are labeled). Once assured I knew what went where (I made notes) I installed the new switch and attached the wires (following my notes).
Being an optimist I reinstalled the tin back, plugged the stove in and pushed it back into position before (with my legs, arms and fingers crossed) I tested the switch (which was not easy considering the position I was in). Lo and behold, no puff of smoke and…ta-da…everything worked as it should.
All in all, upon receiving the switch the whole thing took less than 30 minutes.
Recent.
Less than two weeks ago one of the 6" elements fell apart, still worked but lost the supports that rest on the trim ring. Back to the internet to ordered a new element and new trim rings (just for the cosmetics). Again great service, I think I received my order the second day.
Along with the element they also supply new screws plus the spring clips which hold the ceramic insulator together. There's only two wires to contend with so its easy to determine which is the left wire and which is the right. The old terminal screws were locked in pretty good so I used pliers to hold the terminal while loosening them. There's very little slack in the wires so it was a tad awkward reattaching them to the new element.
I did notice that the threaded hole on the new element seemed to be slightly larger than the old. I noticed this when I used the old screws, one would tighten, the other did not so I replaced with the screws they supplied (Duh!). Well I do have an excuse, the new screws were longer which I feared would prevent the insulator from 'closing'.
I probably spent the most time attaching the insulator. I found I needed to fiddle with position of the terminals before the two halves of the insulator would meet. I splayed the wires out slightly then cocked the wire ends slightly so that the wires would neatly leave the side of the insulator. I also adjusted the terminals and the bendable wire part on the element so that they were parallel to each other.
ANYBODY can do this
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Other Parts Used:
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Still need an other nut to keep broiler support inplcae. Support bar did not come with new screws so I must locate one new one.
6 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Donna from Sinking Spring, PA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I took out the old broiler support bar, but it was being held by one screw. I did install the new bar with one screw, but I need to obtain a second screw. I still have not located a second screw, but it is inplace.
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Needed To Replace Drip Bowl
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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DIANA from TINTON FALLS, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I just replaced them.
Other Parts Used:
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Bad Burner
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Donald from Farmington, MO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed trim ring and drip pan, loosened retaining nut and replaced the burner. I was very impressed at the fast service from your company. Thank You
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burner would not lay flat against surface of range.
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Westbrook, ME
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed two clips that held the ceramic insulators in place. Removed two screws that held conductors to the burner. Replaced screws onto new burner unit, replaced ceramic insulators. Fastened clip to burner onto the range. Turned burner on and it worked great. Thank you for your quick responce to my order.
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Burner rings and drip pans stained
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tommy from Hydro, OK
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
Lifted burner element to remove pressure on ring and drip bowl. Removed old parts and replaced in reverse order. This not intended to sound sexist, but my wife who is not particularily mechanically inclined performed the task on her own.
Other Parts Used:
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broiler element circuit broke
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Lafayette, CO
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
First removed oven door, according to Reader's Digest repair manual, then removed two screws holding element. Pulled element out several inches, then removed one side of bracket holding up front of element so that bad element could be pulled further out. Then disconnected two red wires from one side and two light blue wires from other sid
... Read more
e. Removed old Element. Attached two light blue wires to one side and two red wires to other pole, inserted element back into rear wall and attached with two screws, Re-attached bracket holding up front of element. Re-installed door. Tested and it worked fine.
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Bake element began to spark and short out when I tried to use it.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bill from MANHATTAN, KS
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
When the part arrived, I used the diagram provided by the website to see what really needed to be done. Keep in mind, if you're doing it correctly and disconnect the range from the power source, it's going to be dark inside the oven. Get a good flashlight or electric lantern. There are two screws holding the element in. Mine were 8MM hex
... Read more
-head screws, but be prepared for anything. I removed the with a socket attachment/adapter to my cordless drill/screwdriver, and the part came right out. Some insulation will come as well - don't panic. Installation is similar, just in reverse order. Pay attention to the feet on the element. Make certain they are down. Don't lean on them when you think you're finished and discover that you installed it upside down like someone I know, and have to pull it out to correct this.
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Burner won't heat
4 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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George from Sarasota, FL
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Replaced the burner. Still no heat. Decided to take the front off and test the connections (Power Off!). Found no output from switch to burner. Ordered new switch from PartSelect. Switch arrived in 24 hours, just like the burner (I'm in FL, but still fast!) My only problem was that the know didn't quite fit -- too long. Cut the meta
... Read more
l correctly, but still too long. Had to cut the plastic adapter slightly. Now it fits like the others, but it's not quite as secure due to shortening the piece that slides on the metal shaft.
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self cleaning oven door gasket gone bad
8 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Melvin from Tappen, ND
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
orderd new gasket part removed oven door disassembled installed new gasket reassembled works great just like new
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Broiler element stopped heating
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Steve from Fort Worth, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
Broiler element arrived at my door 3 days after ordering which was nice. Apparently the billing dept. is out of the USA so don't be surprised, like I was, to find a suspicious looking charge for a currency exchange fee (mine was 42 cents). I had to drill two new screw holes in the base of the new element in order for it to fit my oven.
... Read more
I also had to use heavy wire snips to cut off about an inch of the top of the new element base. The female electrical connections also had to be spread out with needle nose pliers since the new element connections were slightly thicker. With all of the issues I had I was frustrated and it took about two hours. On the other hand, the part works perfectly and was priced right. Hopefully it will fit perfectly out of the box for your oven.
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broiler element was broken
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Milli from AURORA, CO
- Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I looked on Youtube for a how to video. It was accurate but the screws in my oven were NOT phillips head screws, they turned out to be sheet metal screws. I used pliers at first which was a PAIN but then I borrowed a socket wrench from the neighbor that was MUCH better!! I had wanted to do it myself to prove to my husband and son that I c
... Read more
ould but I ended up needing their help because the screws were so tight.... But we did the repair ourselves!!!
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Broiler unit burned out
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Phillip from Charlotte, NC
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
I removed the unit easily with anut driver, however the unit also supported the thermo-link. I had to use the hack saw to relieve a small opening for the thermo-link to pass through. No real problem. Then a few holes to be drilled to attach the 'link' to the base of the broiler unit.
BUT-I went into the website listed on the bo ... Read more x. GEAppliances.com Guess what? Their price was twice yours!!
BUT-I went into the website listed on the bo ... Read more x. GEAppliances.com Guess what? Their price was twice yours!!
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