RA720KC General Electric Range - Instructions
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Burner at full red hot power despite setting
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Matt from TAZEWELL, VA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
After removing power from the range, I pulled the unit out for better access to the rear. I carefully pulled all four knobs off the front of the control panel. Next, using a short phillips screwdriver, I removed two screws from the front bottom of the control panel. On the rear of the control panel, there are four screws to loosen, now th
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e whole panel is free to remove toward the front of the unit. The burner switches are held onto the panel with two screws that are located on the front under where the knob had been. The wires are all connected to the switch with crimp type connectors. These are on tight, but can be removed carefully with pliers. Before doing so, I took a picture on my phone to ensure I replaced the wires in the correct order. Everything goes back together in reverse order. This is a good time to clean behind and under the whole stove. The whole process took around 20 minutes.
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The old single heating element support clips came loose over time.
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from SALISBURY, CT
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers
I ordered the replacement clips from this site and they arrived in a timely manner. The clips were perfect, but due to the age of the oven, the holes had elongated and the new clips kept falling out also. I modified the clips by widening the tips with a pair of pliers. They are holding just fine. I don't think the older clips could've wit
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hstood the modification.
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Burner terminal block unstable due to corrosion; potential electrical fire hazard
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Tarpon Springs, FL
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver
This appeared to be an easy fix, but turned out to be more involved than I planned. The hard part was pulling the range/microwave oven assembly away from the wall so I could remove the back panel and see how the new terminal block wires connected up to the switch/knob that operates the burner. Extracting the whole range unit required me
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to use a floor jack to raise the leveling feet of the range above the edge of my floor tile so I could slide the unit out. Once away from the wall, I used a nut driver to remove the back panels. Next surprise was the new terminal block wire connectors were not the same type as the old block's connectors (flat vs. male pin-type). Rather than let the scope of this job creep to include a whole new connector rig, I opted to splice the new terminal block wires onto the existing wires that led up to the control knob. I used professional splices and a crimping tool to secure the wires. After checking the new installation was sound and operational, I slid the whole range back into place. Attaching the new terminal block to the range top was a piece of cake, but getting the damn oven out into open space where I could work on it was bear. But, hey, I learned a few things, one of which is that when a homeowner decides to retile their kitchen, make sure you run the new tiles all the way under the range and not just up to the front edge of the oven. I can see why this was done - to avoid having to remove the oven during the retiling - but it creates an obstacle for whenever the oven needs to be pulled away from its location. The last tool I imagined I would need for this repair was a car jack. The Parts Select part worked fine.
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Front Large Most Powerful Burner's Block had broken so it didn't heat
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Martin from plainfield, CT
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers
This electric stove has a lift up top which I lifted to get at the block and follow the wire back to the terminal at the back of the the stove. I removed the 5 small lag screws holding the back in place, removed the backing followed the wires back to where they connected in the Stove On/Off Control, disconnected the two wires from the co
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ntrol and then laid the new part in place rethreading and reconnecting the wires. I reinstalled the block and ran a test to ensure the burner operated correctly. After successful testing I disconnect the old block holder by removing the small lag screw, replace it with a new one that came with the replacement terminal block. I then inserted the block into the new holder carefully rolled up the excess wire and wrapped it in a couple of places with electrical tape and also secured it to the side of the stove, out of the way of operation with electrical tape, put the top down, plugged it back in and put it back in place. All told the repair took about 40 minutes. I was impressed with the speed of delivery, the quality of the product, the instructions for installation and the added bonus of getting a terminal block holder as part of the repair kit! Thank You for making me look like a genius!
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heating element clap broke off
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Hedgesville, WV
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
All I had to do was pop the clamp on the top part of the heating element and push the clamp into the hole.
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terminal was broken due to maney uses
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Emmett J from Winchester, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
unscrew the terminal block,pulled the old wires out,installed the new wires installed the new block
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Switch was not turning off range indicator light
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Charles from PORTLAND, OR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Pulled stove out and unplugged. At the rear of the range there were 4 faster. Used a nutdriver piece in an electric drill. Pulled off the cover and located the switch. At the front of the stove, I removed the knob and unscrewed two screws releasing the switch. I undid and replaced each wire connector one-by-one to avoid any wrong connecti
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ons. Replaced and secured the switch and replace the back panel. All secured, power on and fixed! Easy repair, but something that had been put off for a year!
Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!
Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!
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The burner bowls were burnt through and nasty looking.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Isabel from The Colony, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I carefully removed the burners, removed the bowls and replaced them with the new ones. Easy as pie!
Other Parts Used:
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The burner coil had shorted out and actually burnt a hole in my non stick pan and after I replaced that, it would not heat up again. I actually swapped the wires from the back burner, but the small coils use a different watt switch and it would barely boil water with the big coil. So I ordered this
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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sherman from OPELOUSAS, LA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
First turn off the breaker, and test with my milti meter. Raise the top panel where the coils are and prop it open high enough to use a screwdriver to open the front panel.
Then unscrew the three screws on the inside of the top panel, then open the oven door and you will see 4 screws across the bottom of thefront control board panel ... Read more and two more on each side of the sides of the panel facing straight up. Unscrew those 6 screws and then pull the front control panel forward and out. You might need something or someone to hold the panel, I just let the wires hold the weight, but not highly recommend. Then pull the switch knob off and behind it there are two little bitty screws that hold the switch in place. Unscrew them and pull the switch out of its place. I put the new switch close to the old one and just used the needle nose pliers to unplug one wire at a time and plug it in on the same place as the old one.
Then screw the itty bitty screws in the front that hold the switch in place and put tbe knob back on. Reposition the front panel back into place abs screw in the 9 screws removed for disassembly. Now would be a good time to clean under the burner panel if you haven’t done so yet ( it gets pretty nasty under there). Then put your burner top back down into place and turn your breaker back on. You can either test with your multi meter or like I did, just put the burner on high and watct the coils glow. Such a beautiful sight. Easy fix.
Then unscrew the three screws on the inside of the top panel, then open the oven door and you will see 4 screws across the bottom of thefront control board panel ... Read more and two more on each side of the sides of the panel facing straight up. Unscrew those 6 screws and then pull the front control panel forward and out. You might need something or someone to hold the panel, I just let the wires hold the weight, but not highly recommend. Then pull the switch knob off and behind it there are two little bitty screws that hold the switch in place. Unscrew them and pull the switch out of its place. I put the new switch close to the old one and just used the needle nose pliers to unplug one wire at a time and plug it in on the same place as the old one.
Then screw the itty bitty screws in the front that hold the switch in place and put tbe knob back on. Reposition the front panel back into place abs screw in the 9 screws removed for disassembly. Now would be a good time to clean under the burner panel if you haven’t done so yet ( it gets pretty nasty under there). Then put your burner top back down into place and turn your breaker back on. You can either test with your multi meter or like I did, just put the burner on high and watct the coils glow. Such a beautiful sight. Easy fix.
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Switch started arcing in the dial range of 2 to 8 in about a year.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brian from HONEA PATH, SC
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Pulled the range out and unplugged it. Removed the back panel. Removed one wire at a time and plugging it in on the new switch. unscrewed the existing switch from the front panel (Two screws). Screwed the new one in, replaced the panel, plugged in the range and tested it. The new switch was a perfect OEM replacement and worked perfectly.
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Two sockets for electric elements and their end terminals were badly burned.
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Marco from Santa Barbara, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
0) Take the back cover of the range off.
1) Carefully noted how the wires and the sockets were connected.
2) Visually checked that the new parts were practically identical old ones.
3) Put together the new sockets from the parts in the kit.
4) disconnect the old sockets and put the new sockets in place.
5) For eac ... Read more h unit disconnect one old wire at the time and connect the new wire. Repeat the same for second wire.
6) Neatly bunch together the rest of the wires with electrical tape. Do not cut the wires!
That's it! It took about 20-30 minutes.
1) Carefully noted how the wires and the sockets were connected.
2) Visually checked that the new parts were practically identical old ones.
3) Put together the new sockets from the parts in the kit.
4) disconnect the old sockets and put the new sockets in place.
5) For eac ... Read more h unit disconnect one old wire at the time and connect the new wire. Repeat the same for second wire.
6) Neatly bunch together the rest of the wires with electrical tape. Do not cut the wires!
That's it! It took about 20-30 minutes.
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burner not work
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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SILVIA from Midlothian, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Fue muy facil desconectar primero la estufa despues quite los tornillos de la parte superior detras de la estufa, desconecte un cable del switch y lo conecte en el nuevo despues el siguiente hasta conectar todos los cables en el nuevo switch. Lo mejor es desconectar uno por uno para mo mesclar los cables , despues removi el switch de la e
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stufa y puse el nuevo , puse las partes de regreso y listo conecte la estufa t revise si funcionava el quemador y listo sin ningun problema.
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drip pans had become old and burned out
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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aiden from philadelphia, PA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
Took off the ring burners and the old drip pans . installed the new drip pans and the old burners took less than 3 minutes...so easy
Other Parts Used:
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In My Carelessness, I Ruined The Burners On My Stove Using A Really Abrasive Cleaner, And Had To Replace Them With New Ones. My Stove Looks Brand New, And I Feel Better!!
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Diane from Fraser, MI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Nothing to it. Took off the old ones and put on the new! Tada - new stove!!
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Drip pans on stove top burned black
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dan from Tucson, AZ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I got tired of trying to find the right parts in the stores and decided to order them. Finally I have the drip pans that fit my range!
Other Parts Used:
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