RA5130J2 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Replaced all the ordered parts, and straightened a bent "rest piece" (one of three) on the element os the large burner, which made it rest perfectly on the new Trim Ring. It doesn't easily fall down into the bowl now while I am using the burner. The new Bowls look so nice, and the stove looks nearly new!

I now know where to ... Read more go for help when I need to repair appliances. You seem to have everything that could possibly be needed. Thank you!

Removed single screw securing the old tilt-up burner. Removed clips on sides of clamshell ceramic terminal block with flat blade screwdriver to expose two wire connections. Removed 2 screws connecting the wires to the bad heating element. Did not use the supplied new ceramic terminal block, just reused old one. Connected new burner to wir ... Read more es with 2 screws. Reassembled terminal block with clips. Fastened clip with single screw to attach new unit to side of opening in range top. Tested. Done.

Replace part an wires

First shut the power to the stove,then had to slide the stove out so I could get at the back to remove the panel screws.Once you have the back off remove the knob on the front.Under the knob is 2 phillips screws that you need to remove.Next I took the new switch and matched up the wires to the old switch.Reinstall is the reverse.Once the ... Read more switch is in place you must remove the excess shaft to match the length of the old one.This is done with the use of 2 pliers,you grasp the shaft with both pliers and snap it off where you need it.The kit comes with spacers so you have got to match up the right one so the switch is solid on the shaft.This finishes the project,next turn the power back on and check that all is working ok.Job finished.

New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring!
Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up!
Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up!
Works fine! Now all burners work again!

Moved into a house built in 1976 about 7 years ago that came with an old but nice looking GE electric stove.
Stove worked well until about a year ago when the switch for the 8" element became erratic. Having been raised where DIYS was SOP I didn't even consider calling for help instead, armed with the stove model number, I went to th ... Read more e internet (How on earth did I ever survive before internet?) and found this site where I quickly found the exploded view of my stove, IDed the switch, ordered and received it within a day or so. Fantastic turn around time!

Now I've never ever worked on an electric stove so I was quite methodical in my approach.

First I read the instructions (you know, when all else fails…) that came with the new switch, then I pulled the stove out, unplugged it and removed the tin back that covers the switches. I drew a diagram of the old switch orientation and which wires attached to what. Then I disconnected the wires, removed the knob and the two screws hiding behind it that hold the switch to the stove.

Oops, the new switch was not identical to the old!!

First: I noticed was that the stem for the knob was longer BUT they proved break off notches so that it can be shortened.
Second: the stem on the old switch was a half round while the new stem was square. I tried the 'half round' knob on the square stem and it went on firmly. Nothing ventured nothing gained.
Third: the terminal orientation did not match. So armed with my diagram and the instructions I made sure I knew which terminal was which (they are labeled). Once assured I knew what went where (I made notes) I installed the new switch and attached the wires (following my notes).

Being an optimist I reinstalled the tin back, plugged the stove in and pushed it back into position before (with my legs, arms and fingers crossed) I tested the switch (which was not easy considering the position I was in). Lo and behold, no puff of smoke and…ta-da…everything worked as it should.

All in all, upon receiving the switch the whole thing took less than 30 minutes.

Recent.

Less than two weeks ago one of the 6" elements fell apart, still worked but lost the supports that rest on the trim ring. Back to the internet to ordered a new element and new trim rings (just for the cosmetics). Again great service, I think I received my order the second day.

Along with the element they also supply new screws plus the spring clips which hold the ceramic insulator together. There's only two wires to contend with so its easy to determine which is the left wire and which is the right. The old terminal screws were locked in pretty good so I used pliers to hold the terminal while loosening them. There's very little slack in the wires so it was a tad awkward reattaching them to the new element.
I did notice that the threaded hole on the new element seemed to be slightly larger than the old. I noticed this when I used the old screws, one would tighten, the other did not so I replaced with the screws they supplied (Duh!). Well I do have an excuse, the new screws were longer which I feared would prevent the insulator from 'closing'.
I probably spent the most time attaching the insulator. I found I needed to fiddle with position of the terminals before the two halves of the insulator would meet. I splayed the wires out slightly then cocked the wire ends slightly so that the wires would neatly leave the side of the insulator. I also adjusted the terminals and the bendable wire part on the element so that they were parallel to each other.

ANYBODY can do this

I removed the screw holding the tilt mechanism to the range top. Removed the clips holding the block together. Disconnected the two power leads on the old burner and replaced with the new burner. Closed the block around the leads. Screwed the tilt mechanism back to the range top and that was it!

I just replaced them.

I took out the old broiler support bar, but it was being held by one screw. I did install the new bar with one screw, but I need to obtain a second screw. I still have not located a second screw, but it is inplace.

Removed two clips that held the ceramic insulators in place. Removed two screws that held conductors to the burner. Replaced screws onto new burner unit, replaced ceramic insulators. Fastened clip to burner onto the range. Turned burner on and it worked great. Thank you for your quick responce to my order.

Removed trim ring and drip pan, loosened retaining nut and replaced the burner. I was very impressed at the fast service from your company. Thank You

Lifted burner element to remove pressure on ring and drip bowl. Removed old parts and replaced in reverse order. This not intended to sound sexist, but my wife who is not particularily mechanically inclined performed the task on her own.

Took Switch panel off range. Disconnected Infinite switch. Reinstalled infinite switch.. Replaced panel. Repair was very simple and self explainatory.
Knott County Housing Authority Maintenance Personnel

Repair went a lot faster and easier than I anticipated. Instructions are similar to those posted by others.
1. Verify that new gasket looks mostly like old gasket as best you can since not all of old gasket is visible.
2. Shut off circuit to oven (optional, but good practice)
3. Remove racks, trays, etc from oven to red ... Read more uce weight at Step 7
4. Remove oven door by partially opening door to broiler position (about 20 degrees). Door should catch and stay open on its own. Slide up and lift off door. The “hinges” are spring loaded so carefully return them to closed position so they won’t snap shut on fingers.
5. Remove Phillips screws, one on each side wall of oven liner.
6. Remove two hex screws and metal gasket-holder on top center of oven liner.
7. Pull and slide oven liner out of oven mainframe about 1/4 “ to 3/8”. This may be the most difficult part of the job.
8. If possible to remove just a couple of inches of one bottom of old gasket (right side is easiest), verify that the cross-section profile of both old and new gaskets are essentially the same. If not, you have the wrong gasket.
9. Pull and remove old gasket. If gasket is dry and cracking, it may be necessary to scrape it out with putty knife, flat-blade screwdriver, etc. if it has fused to metal over the years. Note how it was installed on the metal edge of the oven liner.
10. Locate the mid-point on the new gasket length and begin inserting it at the top-center of the oven liner where you removed the two hex screws. Continue installing along both left and right sides of the liner. Each end of the gasket should extend to just above the respective hinge. No trimming should be necessary. Ensure a snug fit all along each side and top.
11. Push liner back into oven mainframe. Replace Phillips screws, gasket-holder, and hex screws.
11. Pull out each hinge to broiler position.
12. Replace door by sliding down onto hinges. Close door and check for tight fit against gaskets. Gaskets will flatten somewhat over time
13. Restore power, racks, trays, etc.

Replaced the burner. Still no heat. Decided to take the front off and test the connections (Power Off!). Found no output from switch to burner. Ordered new switch from PartSelect. Switch arrived in 24 hours, just like the burner (I'm in FL, but still fast!) My only problem was that the know didn't quite fit -- too long. Cut the meta ... Read more l correctly, but still too long. Had to cut the plastic adapter slightly. Now it fits like the others, but it's not quite as secure due to shortening the piece that slides on the metal shaft.