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PWE23KM General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the PWE23KM
16 - 30 of 157

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Loud clicking noise and the temperature was not stable.
11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Suezy from MONROVIA, MD
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took out the old parts and replaced it with the new parts. The new OVERLOAD PTCR COMBO was different then the one that we replaced so we called customer service and they told us which wire to insert into each of the 2 slots and it is working like new again. Outstanding and knowledgeable customer service.
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+-LOWER DRAWER ICED OVER IN BACK AND CONTENTS FROZEN UPPER STORES NOT COLD ENOUGH
10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • CHARLES from FAYETTEVILLE, OH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
REMOVE LOWER DRAWERS, SHELF AND BACK EVAPORATOR COVER AND REPLACE SIEZED EVAPORATOR BLOWER MOTOR.
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Fridge keeps cycling on and off and a clicking sound happens every time compressor cycles.
10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kirk E from GRASS VALLEY, CA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I opened the back panel of the fridge and exposed the compressor. Unplugged existing run capacitor and installed new one with the addition of the sleeve that is stated must be installed around the run capacitor.
Everything I read and on this web site says that based on these symptoms, that the problem is the run capacitor. I search ed and search for a part called a start relay which plugs in to the compressor. This run capacitor plugs in to this other part which I take as the start relay.

Installing this run capacitor did not solve the problem. The fridge compressor keeps cycling on and off. Freezer doesn't keep as cold as it should.
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LAMP WAS BURNED OUT
10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • DON from SAN ANTONIO, TX
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
EXCHANGED THE LED LAMP ASSEMBLY. ONLY DO ONE AT A TIME AS THEY ARE WIRED IN SERIES!
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Switchlight was broken on tennant's refridge
10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Somers Point, NJ
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapp ed the new switch into place.

10 minutes total.
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temp almost 60 in refrigerator compartment, but 31 in bottom drawer where meat stored.
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from LONDONDERRY, NH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Watch this very good refrigerator evaporator fan replacement video
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refrigerator and freezer stopped working
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • mike from Aguilar, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.
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Freezer not getting cold enough to freeze ice cream
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from ROSETO, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix
the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would
have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was
pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to
take the new part back out after the sma ll challenge of putting it in.
The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still
good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from
a website even if it seems like a sure thing
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Refrigerator would warm up while freezer got colder
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from CHEBOYGAN, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Repair man thought it was the control board and an issue with a relay on the board. Purchased the new board but found out the board was fine, and it was the recirculating fan that would go out intermediately.

Tried ordering that part from Part Select since they have been great, but GE discontinued the part and their was not a r eplacement available. After much research, found the new replacement part number and ordered that, it went in quickly and for now seems to have solved the problem.
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No water thru the door.
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Raymond from HARTFORD, KY
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed the bad inlet valve and installed the replacement. Very easily done. The replacement part made the repair so simple and saved me a huge amount over calling a repair man. It did not take any special knowledge.
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Broken spring on bottom hinge of left door mullion.
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alan from LA PINE, OR
  • Very Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
Received the wrong spring. It is larger in diameter and the legs are too long. I used pliers to modify the spring for a temporary fix. Emailed CS about the wrong part and have never received any response back?
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Broken water filter appliance
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from BLUE RIDGE, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Literally turned off the water to the refrigerator, disconnected the lines from the back and took one screw loose from the inside of the unit. Slid out old filter connection and slid in the new one and did reverse process.
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Replace old filter with new water filter.
33 of 87 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barbara from EDMONDS, WA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Remove old filter by pulling and not twisting and insert new filter by pushing in place.
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Replacement of Evaporator Fan
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Coppell, TX
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Move the refrigerator away from the wall.
Disconnect the refrigerator.
Remove bottom drawer.
Remove two criisper drawers.
Remove crisper drawer slides, one bolt near the front of each slide.
Push slides off pin at back.
Remove bottom panel at the back of the refrigerator to access fan.
Remove fan, held w ith a couple of screws.
Remove rubber gasket from around old fan and put the gasket around new fan.
install new fan and bolt in place.
Replace lower panel at back at back of refrigerator.
Reinstall drawer slides, hook at back and bold at front
Reinstall drawers.
Reconnect refrigerator power.
Push refrigerator back in place and adjust feed to hold in place.
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Refrigerator compartment would not cool (58 deg F), freezer maintained 0 deg F
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Levi from EDMOND, OK
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
It dawned upon us, after stumbling across chunky milk and crisper starting to freeze items, perhaps the fridge was not working properly. Checking temps the compartment would run 57 to 59 deg F, yet the freezer was perfectly fine 0 deg F. Rather than trouble shoot what component was the driving issue, I decided to replace all the main co mponents: motherboard, compartment fan, blend door assy. Motherboard was quite simple: two screws for a cover on the back, unplug all the harness connectors, plug back in. Compartment fan simply slid out and new one back in with a little trickery for the wiring (I just cut the old fan harness rather than fight the wire routing plastic piece). The blend door assy was the most complicated but just a series of 1/4" nut screws and disassembly. Fridge now maintains 35 deg compartment temp. I'm not certain which component was the culprit (leaning towards motherboard, as I look back some the interior lighting may not have been working properly, which also suggest MB), however I'm glad $450 in parts brought fridge back to life any not $3k for a new one.
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All Instructions for the PWE23KM
16 - 30 of 157