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PWE23KELFDS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the PWE23KELFDS
76 - 90 of 134

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The control board generated clicking noise. Temperature display wrong values.
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • QUOC-LOC from LYNN HAVEN, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
P lugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.
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Broken light switch
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ted from SANDWICH, IL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
took a little more effort than the video show to remove old module and replace new. Works fine now.
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The door activated light switch was missing.
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Don from Eugene, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Pulled the two wires out from the access hole in the lower part of the refrigerator. Put them in the spade connectors on the new switch, and pushed the switch into place.
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Bad switch for door prevented interior light from coming on
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Patricia from Sylva, NC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Just as your video described, although due to the age of the fridge, it took a bit longer to remove the defective switch. Your video made this so simple, I can't imagine why we lived with a dark fridge for so long! I was ready to buy a whole new fridge, as repairmen are often nonexistent for small repairs. I am the biggest fan of yo ur company & it's repair video. THANK YOU SO MUCH
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Water filter needed changing.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sara from White Plains, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
Snap filter into place while holding the filter slightly away from the refrig. When filter snaps into place, push it towards refrig into place.
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light in freezer section not working
6 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Victor from Fort Myers, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks
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frige too cold
  • John from Island Lake, IL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
changed sensors did not repair problem,replaced damper with mechanical damper fixed problem.
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fridge to warm
  • Michelle from Chimacum, WA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
followed part select video instructions
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Refrigerator and freezer drawer would not maintain set temperature
  • James from Bel Air, MD
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Condenser fan motor was running slow. This was not a problem included in your list of possible problems. I thought that maybe the capacitor was bad but have no way to check it. So I ordered one. when I received it, I installed it. That was not the problem. So I ordered a fan motor and installed it. That was not the problem. So finally I o rdered a control board and installed it. That solved the problem. So maybe you should put "cond.fan motor runs slow" in your list of possible faults and what causes that problem. Capacitor was easy to install, simply remove the cover plate, flip off retaining wire, unplug the capacitor and replace. Fan motor was a bit more difficult. It must be removed from mount after fan scroll is removed. Remove one screw that holds scroll, bend the top down and remove. Then pull hard on fan blade to remove it. It must be installed on new motor. Two screws in frame mount can be removed with some effort if you have a 1/4" drive ratchet with a Phillips screwdriver bit. Then pull frame open and install new motor. Push fan blade on new motor shaft hard. Replacing control board was easy. I used a pair of long nose pliers with 90 degree bend to get mounting pins closed to pull board off.
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Fridge Side Freezing/Too Cold
  • michael from silver bay, MN
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Followed the repair video, was spot on!!
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freezer would not defrost or maintain temperature
  • Jason Mcgee from Catawissa, MO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
luckly i have a bit of experience in refrigeration im an hvac technician by trade. this repair was a bit tricky in that i did not know at first if it was a Temperature Sensor issue or the main control board. I had tested the defrost termination thermostat and the defrost heater and as i suspected they were ok. Next i wanted to test the thermistors (temp sensors) it is hard to find technical data on these fridges. I needed to test the thermistors resistance @ a certian temperature to ensure they were working properly but where do u get such data? I also wanted to know some information about the logic programmed into the board (i.e when do you initiate defrost etc. . .). I had no such luck so i figured since i tested the defrost heater and thermostat and they were ok and all of the evap fans and such were working i'd order a circuit board and new thermistors. Got the CORRECT PARTS from this site in 2 business days and my fridge is working great! changing the parts was really easy, figuring out which parts to change was the only difficult thing about this job.
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Fridge/Freezer getting too warm
  • Nick from Burnt Cabins, PA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
What an awesome site! After putting in my model number and finding the problem I was having, I simply picked the 2 parts that were most likely to solve the problem. I bought a defrost thermostat, and defrost heater. To a high certainty, they would solve my problem. They didn't however! I ended up having to buy a temperature sensor on another order a few weeks later when the problem resurfaced! My own fault. I should have bought it the first time. As others have written: the longest part of the job is defrosting the ice from the coil. One thing I did that I didn't see suggested: plug the drain hole below the coil. I put a couple towels in the bottom of the freezer and ran the hair dryer. Didn't take long. I read that the amount of water created will overflow the pan under the refrigerator, so I plugged the drain hole. Once you clean that mess up, the repair is pretty straight forward. Great site. Even through I had to make two separate purchases, I still saved a lot of money. Thanks!
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coils were icing up and refrigerator section was warm freezer was cold
  • Chuck from TARRYTOWN, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplugged unit and removed vented cover over compressor section. The run capacitor is a simple fix 1 Phillips head screw and 2 spade wire connectors. For the temperature sensor I had to remove all drawers and the ice maker to remove the back cover to expose the condenser. Put a bowl at the drain stem in the rear of the unit and used a hea t gun to defrost the coils on the condenser. Cut the wire about 3" from the sensor end . cut about the same off the new sensor stripped the wires put shrink wrap on each wire, attached butt connecors . heat gun for the shrink wrap and reassembled everything. Simple job that took about a half hour to do both. I will monitor the fridge for a couple of weeks to see if I need to change the control board.
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Defroster stopped working and iced up evaporator coil
  • Brandon from Bruceton Mills, WV
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn' t. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.
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freezer and refrigerator wasn't cold
  • Laura from Brentwood, MD
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Wrench set
Replaced all the sensors in both the feezer and refrigerator.Even though it colder now it still is not cold enough.Freezer won't freeze items but is cold and refrigerator still not real cold
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All Instructions for the PWE23KELFDS
76 - 90 of 134