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PS968SP1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the PS968SP1SS
1 - 15 of 118

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Oven was not coming up to temperature
57 of 79 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sean from Highlands Ranch, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I had to remove the oven from the wall because the sensor plug connction is behind the unit. Two screws hold the sensor inside the oven and then I disconnected the lead and pulled the sensor out from the front. I installed the new sensor, tightened the two screws holding it in and connected the lead. Then reinstalled the oven into the wal l. Overall, a very easy repair once you get the oven out.
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terminal block melted
56 of 77 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jonathan from willow springs, IL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. U nscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient
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Plastic drawer support snapped off
30 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeff Troiano from Sayville, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The repair went very easy. The replacement part was designed differently than the original part. It installed on the rear of the drawer with a screw as the original snapped into the side. This was a bit confusing when researching and looking up the part online.
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Switch failed
34 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Fresno, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I turned off the circuit breaker and tested the cook top. I pulled the cook top out and laid a piece of plywood over the opening to work on the cook top and not scratch the granite counter top. The mistake I made was to turn the cook top upside down and separate the top from the housing. The dampening springs came off the burners and I could have damaged the elements (but they checked out ok). I turned the whole assembly right side up again and replaced the switch and put it all back together. It works great...thank you for the part.
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Aluminum Foil Bonded With Bottom
21 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Linda from Oro Valley, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
It was much easier than trying to remove the bonded aluminum foil from the false bottom/drip pan. Simply lift and remove oven front door, (see your manual), slide out false bottom and slide in new. For me it did take longer than 15 minutes, but that's because I was doing a thorough oven cleaning. The part was in the $50 range and well wor th it. Why didn't anyone ever tell me that you can no longer line the bottom of your oven with aluminum foil?
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Broil (top) element replacement for oven
20 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • robert from pine valley, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
After turning the breaker off, using a 1/4 inch nut driver I removed all the clamp screws (5) holding the heating element in place. I then unplugged the element wire spades from the rear of oven and removed the old element. Installing the new one was simply going in reverse order. After plugging the new one in, I did however, use plyers t o squeeze the connectors and make the connections tighter. It took a little more back work than I thought because I was leaning over most the time. All in all, I saved a hundred dollar bill in doing this 30 min job myself.
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Actual temperature did not match set temp
22 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from Fairfield, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the oven door for easy acces to oven. Unscrewed (philips screwdriver) the screw holding temp sensor in place. Gently pulled the wiring until quick connector was located. Pushed down on locking level on quick connect while holding other end of wiring (so wiring would not fall back behind oven). Connected the new sensor and scre wed back in place. Reinstalled oven door. Tested temperature settings by turning on oven and comparing with a separate oven thermometer.
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Electric range burner not working due to control switch
21 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rodney from Erath, LA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Turned off power to counter top range and pulled-up from counter. Set range on counter and removed 16 screws from around the housing allowing me to pull-up and remove range top. Used socket to remove 4 screws holding control switch bracket in place and 2 screws holding bad switch in place. Disconnect wires from bad switch and reconnected to new switch. Placed and screwed switch bracket back in place. Before placing range top back I turned power back on to to test burner operation. Burner and switch operated correctly and I completed screwing range top back in place, setting back down into counter top. Done
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9in portion of heating element inoperable
20 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from LEWES, DE
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
first ,troubleshot switch--it was ok. next,troubleshot triple element & found that the 9in portion had an open in the heating element itself ordered .new element,installed it .Works like new!
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Replacing the glass Maintop
17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Dadeville, AL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Don't order new gaskets--they come installed on the new maintop.
1. Pull oven out from the wall,
2 Remove two screws, one on each side toward the rear.
3. Remove the controll faceplate by removing the four rotary switches and unscrewing the retaining rings underneath the rotary switches. When lifting the faceplate, be careful to disconnect the wiring harness attached at the bottom of the right third of the facepalte to avoid bending the tines.
4. Removing the faceplate gives you access to six screws (nutdriver) attacing the mainoven to the glass top unit. Remove them all.
5. Slightly lift the glass top and tilt from the rear toward the front to get access to the underside.
6. There are 4 burners and the "surface hot" light unit attached to the bottom of the glass top. Disconnect the surface hot light by easing it out and let it hang, Remove the burners (recommend right to left) by unscrewing (nutdriver) the screws which hold the nine burner retaining clips . Lay the burners on the oven.
7. Remove/discard the old glass top.
8. Use a towel folded over to provide a cushion under the front edge of the new glass top as you install the new burners.
9. Install everything in reverse order.
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F2 error code
13 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George from Fiskdale, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After reviewing the potential causes for the error code, I decided I'd try to change out the temp sensor. Using the ohmeter, I saw the difference immediately between the old and new sensor. The sensor is accessed from the back of the stove, and must be slide out to gain access to the rear panel. Since the stove I have is a built in, re moving the stove and the access panel was the hardest part of this repair. Resetting the glass control panel was also a bit tricky to calibrate the touch sensitive buttons. Good luck.
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RF Dual Burner out. Smoke in the area of controls
12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Al from Ocala, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Shut off circuit breaker. Removed cooktop from island counter. Removed all knobs. Removed all screws after finding layout diagrams of unit on your web site. Lifted glass top from metal cabinet. Ordered control after trouble shooting the problem. (Master Electrician). Obviously burned out from water in control. Ordered control on line and installed it when it arrived three days later. Before installing control I cleaned and dried out the area. I cleaned the glass top around all the control shaft holes and the rubber boots and lubricated them with silicone to help keep them dry and for ease of turning controls. Turned on circuit breaker and checked all burners, pilot light and hot top indicating lights.
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rear supports were broken
11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • TED from herndon, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The draw pictorial was not very clear. I orderd the two rear supports for the over storage draw, not sure they were correct.
They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support.
The draw is now operational..better then ever.
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Broken control assembly panel
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chuck from Charlottesville, VA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Took off the knobs and retainer nuts. Carefully setting them on top in the same order as they came off. Unscrewed the bottom retainer screws. Removed the main control trim. Unscrewed the top retainer screws. Carefully pulled the broken control assembly panel out of the wire harness. Reversed the procedure to install the new Panel.
Found the part quick and easily on your site and had it shipped next day. Wonderful Experience!
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Inner oven door glass broke
10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Micheal from SHEPHERDSVLLE, KY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Pull the old one put in the new one ... took about 20 minutes
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All Instructions for the PS968SP1SS
1 - 15 of 118