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PLWA90AW Amana Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the PLWA90AW
16 - 30 of 85

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low flow when cold water was used
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • steve from ramsey, MN
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
it was really easy to gain access to the valve, but the part was just a little different then the original. I had to lengthen one wire to make the new valve work. This did take care of the problem when completed.
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Leaking water while washer runs
10 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Roswell, GA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Biggest trick is getting the agitator off. It seems like it is bolted on. I used a piece of braided cotton cord to run under both sides of the agitator and just pulled real hard. It WILL pop off.

Next the old seal will also seem to be attached. The edge is firm but not bolted. A small prybar will help.

Easy repa ir to do, but it did not fix my problem. I decided to get a new washer rather than go through further disassembly.
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Mixing valve quit working - hot side
7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steve from Churubusco, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Needed part. Ordered Part from PartSelect Friday afternoon and figured I'd get it the following week. No big deal. Part arrived at my doorstep next morning before noon. UNBELIEVABLE SERVICE. Not requested, but it was there. So I fixed the machine as soon as I got it. I wish every company had this kind of service. I've already told my frie nds. It just can't get any easier than this.
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replace rubber drain hose adapter
7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from Austin, TX
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Place black rubber adapter on the end of the drain hose and stick in the stand pipe drain. That's all.
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Sweaking and then Burning
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kristine from Montgomery, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I had some sweaking and then burning followed. I came to find the belt had burnt and stopped my washer from working. Ordered a belt and replaced. Washer worked for one week. Squeaking and burning again. Belt was still intact, thank goodness. Beleive it is another pulley part for the washer. Might order another part. Overall the fi x was good, but had another issue.
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Due to the age of the washer, everything on the bottom end was rusted or corroded together tightly.
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeff from Garland, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
To remove the drive bell, I drilled numerous holes through the top and split it apart with a screwdriver. The hub was really stuck and due to the unavailability of a 6" puller, I was forced to drill holes in the center section, tap the holes and use a harmonic balancer puller, PB Blaster, and propane torch to remove the hub. After removi ng the hub, I found small holes rusted through the outer tub. These I repaired with JB WaterWeld quite successfully. The new parts were well made and went on easily in about 45 minutes.
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needed the door to swing left instead of swinging right
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steven from BONNER, MT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Remove five screws holding the door hinge to the dryer frame. Remove the plastic cover over the screw holes on the opposite side. Remove the hinge from the door by removing two phillips head screws from the door edge and two phillips head screws from inside the door. Mount the hinge on the opposite side of the door. Attach to door to the opposite side with the five screws you removed previously. Remove and replace the the hinge cover and handle cover by popping out the plastic trim piece on the bottom and loosening the top trim pieces. Hook the replacement covers to the top trim pieces and pop the bottom piece back in. Replace the handle by removing two screws and put the new piece in. Tighten two screws and you're done
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Water would not shut off
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Walter from Hampton, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Sunday night - removed old valve and hose 15 min went online, found & ordered part - 15 min - part showed up Tuesday afternoon, replaced defective valve 15 min - did laundry! Couldn't have been easier or less expensive!
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Idler wheel seperated from bushing,snap ring came off
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Westmoreland, NH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Socket set
First always unplug appliance.Then I shut off the water.I took the front off the washer.Saw the idler was the problem.Ordered parts and new belt.Removed motor assy,and removed pump.Checked impellors and pump bearing.Installed new parts for idler.Installed belt.Re-installed pump to motor,then re-installed entire assy.Turned on water and ec ectricity.Ran complete cycle to test.Re-installed front cover.
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tub would not stop spinning--brakes broke from bolts
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • GARY from VILLA RIDGE, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Unpluged electric, diconnected dicharge hose from wall drain, disconnected water lines from rear of washer and at wall hose connection, removed lower front panel, removed large front panel, disconnected hoses at motor(put towels at hoses to catch water leakage)THEN-took washer to the garage and tuned up side down. Removed front two tub sp rings, removed (4) motor bolts, removed electrical harness from motor, remove and replaced new brake pads. NOTE:brake pads need to be somewhat driven(pushed hard) into brake pad slots. Also it was easier to install the rear pad by removing the 4" knock-out at the side of the washer. Somehow reinstall the knock-out to keep mice and animals from entering the interior of the washer. THEN- reinstall all items in reverse order. Any one mechaniclly minded can replace the brake pad. My wife and I saved lots by doing the replacement myself. THE END. Good job Gary Final note:besure to intall the drive "v" belt around the 2" pulley wheel.Very important.
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Threads on old legs had been damaged in moving to new location.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Wayne from SEDONA, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .
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Washer would stop with full of water and just hum
6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Byron from Mesa, AZ
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed the motor and mount, removed pump, replaced motor,pump,belt and mount and re-installed. Everything fit and functioned.
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grease in washer
6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jan from Denver, CO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Socket set
remove agitator then remove center bolt from hub, match bolt with longer bolt so that gear puller will work. install bolt and gear puller and twist top of gear puller until hub is removed. remove old seal ,use sand cloth or emery cloth to remove all deposits from shoulder. make it shinny, use some dawn dishwashing soap to line the inside of the new seal at the bottom and slide into place.take a piece of 2" PVC about 4" long and slide over the top of the seal and tap with a rubber hammer until seal is seated firmly on shoulder. look to see that there are no gaps with a inspection mirror or a make-up mirror.If their are no gaps ,install the hub and tap on the new hub with the rubber hammer. the hub will not seat all the way down so use the old bolt to pull it down, now take out the old bolt and install the new one, this is because the new one has lock tite on it ,your done!
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Leaky drain hose
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Keith from Little Elm, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I tried to lift the lid on the top of the washing machine. I eventually realized this model doesn't open up from the top. I removed two screws on the very bottom of the front panel of the washing machine. Then pulled gently downward to release the front panel from the two clips holding it in at the top. Once the front panle was removed, I found I could easily access the drain hose and disconnect it from the pump by loosening the clamp screw. (Be aware, there is still water in the hose and pump that will run out onto the floor; I had a bucket close by and tried to catch most of this water, but its somewhat futile.) There are two additional hose clips one underneath the tub, and one on the back panel of the washer that hold the hose away from other mechanical parts. Once the hose is freed from those clips it could be removed from the washer by feeding the hose out the back panel. The new hose was then inserted and fed down inside the washer, attached to the pump, tighten the hose clamp screw, clip the hose to the other two clamps so it is out of the way of other parts, reattached the front panel and you're done!

One other note about PartSelect.com...A few days after ordering my part, I had an "International Transaction Fee" show up on my debit card statement. I panicked thinking my card number had been stolen only to call my bank and find out PartSelect is based in Canada.
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The old belt burned up
6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • TOM from MERIDEN, CT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
1) removed front panels from washing machine
2) removed water pump. Three small torque bit screws and (2) hoses.
3) removed motor (because I realized that the belt tensioner also needed work as it was siezed) removed (4) bolts and an electical connector.
4) repaired tensioner by taking apart and cleaning bearing surface. Ne eded snap ring plyers to take apart.
5) put motor back in
6) replaced belt
7) put water pump back on
8) intalled front panels back on washer
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All Instructions for the PLWA90AW
16 - 30 of 85