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PK7800SK5SS General Electric Range - Instructions
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Microwave would turn on and count down, but not heating and not rotate turntable. Pressing door up would occasionally start heat.
40 of 67 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Ridgefield, CT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
First I disconnected the power and opened the door. Then I removed the top screws holding the top vent louvers, then removed the screw at the top of the touch pad. The touch pad removes by sliding up slightly then tilting top out. I unscrewed two screws holding the door latch assembly. Press the tab to remove and replace switch. Reco
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nnect wires, reseat latch mount by placing top bracket tab in place first, allign and secure with screws. Reseat touch pad by placing bottom tabs in first, tilt forward and press up to seat top tabs, secure with top screw. Secure vent louver screws, plug in and watch your microwave work again.
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Microwave runs with the door open
37 of 58 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from Andover, NJ
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove microwave outer cover. Turn on side & locate the upper & lower door switches. Better to replace in pairs even if one is ok. Remove the wire harness to each switch. Then replace switch and re connect the wire harness. Re attach outer cover
and test to see if that solved the problem. If so then well done!!
and test to see if that solved the problem. If so then well done!!
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Blower Fan quit working
20 of 22 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from Goshen, IN
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
It took a while to remove approx 30 screws to get to the blower. So my oven was sitting, torn apart while I waited on the new blower fan that I had ordered. It arrived shortly, about 5 days. When I opened the box I saw that PARTSELECT had sent me a drain pump instead of the blower fan that I had ordered. Since an oven does not require a d
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rain pump and it wouldn't work to replace my broken blower fan I had to return it. I was told that I needed to send the part back in order to get a refund. After I sent their drain pump back at a cost of $13 they emailed me and said I didn't need to send the drain pump back. And they refunded me minus shipping So I had to pay shipping both ways for a part that was wrong. And I ordered it from someone else. I put the new blower fan that I had bought from another company in and replaced the 30 screws. And the oven has been working fine ever since. Thank you PARTSELECT for allowing me to tell people how you operate. They have a money back guarantee, but they don't give you back ALL your money. Thanks Again.
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Everything seemed to work with the controls, but when you pressed start the light would come on and nothing else. The turntable and heating system would not function.
25 of 43 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Keith from Bowling Green, KY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I unplugged it, removed the outer shell with torque bits and a screwdriver, drained the main capacitor, and began debugging the circuit with my fluke multimeter, found the bad primary interlock, googled the part number, ordered the part, received it in 2 days, replaced the interlock in about 2 minutes, and put the cover back on. Fixed.
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Saved me about $200 over buying a new unit and was grateful for partselect's great service.
-Keith Packard
-Keith Packard
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Microwave would not heat food
18 of 25 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Dayton, NV
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
First and most important - unplug AC power 24 hours before service.
I removed the vent cover above the main door, then I removed the screw which holds the control panel in place, unplugged the main connector on the control panel so I would have enough room to work, removed grounding screw from the DIODE ASSY, pulled connector o ... Read more ff the CAPACITOR with pliers, installed new DIODE ASSY.
After installation of DIODE and the control Panel, I plugged in the AC power and allowed the CAPACITOR to charge - this takes about an hour or so, then test. Works perfect!
I removed the vent cover above the main door, then I removed the screw which holds the control panel in place, unplugged the main connector on the control panel so I would have enough room to work, removed grounding screw from the DIODE ASSY, pulled connector o ... Read more ff the CAPACITOR with pliers, installed new DIODE ASSY.
After installation of DIODE and the control Panel, I plugged in the AC power and allowed the CAPACITOR to charge - this takes about an hour or so, then test. Works perfect!
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Original part was fried
20 of 34 people
found this instruction helpful.
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michelle from virginia beach, VA
- Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
Had to remove microwave from the wall. Then disassemble entire top assembly to get to the part. Easy enough to replace after that. Then just reassemble and reinstall. About 2hrs. total
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had to press door opener slightly to work
16 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lawrence from East Patchogue, AL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed screws holding outer shell. Pushed in door handle to identify faulty switch. Ordered part. Pryed switch out with screw driver and unplugged. reinstalled new switch. Presto. BUT... I did NOT use both hands while working on the microwave. I did not release the energy from the capacitor or whatever holds the killer amperage ev
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en when unplugged. It would be advisable to do this first. I did not because it seemed complicated, so I was EXTREMELY CAREFUL about not touching anything else inside the unit. I used one hand only so if I did touch something I would not get juiced through the chest. It was a piece of cake repair, but I would not go deeper without doing the discharge routine.
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All power out. No display, not operational
15 of 22 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steven from Gardiner, ME
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
Remove microwave and set on flat surface. Remove all screws on top. Remove all screws around back edge holding top on. Finally remove the screws on botton holding top on and remove top. On left side on top, remove 6 screws holding black channel in place. Also remove 3 screws holding metal top in place. Now lift black channel up and u
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nplug 2 wires on cutout. Replace cutout and reinstall everything in reverse order. Worst part is taking microwave down and reinstalling.
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Oven shut down when TCO (thermostat) detected overheat. Once cutoff, it has to be replaced not reset.
11 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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R C from Eglin Air Force Base, FL
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
The spacesaver is mounted over the stovetop. I removed the oven, then removed all the screws from the cover. Removed the cover and located the TCO and removed the wiring and the TCO. Ordered the part VIA internet and replaced it . It helps a little that I was Radar tec. and taught Electronics for 10 years and repaired lots of Microwaves
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. However anyone could do it just watch what you remove and replace in reverse order.
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No cooking Power
12 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Norbert from Minnetonka, MN
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Had to remove outer cover (special screws involved). Found the correct part at PartSelect.Com and it arrived 3 days later as promissed.
This oven has diffcult electrical connections at switch to get disconnected. I found it easier with the sw loose and in hand so that the connectors can be released with a small screwdriver. ... Read more r />
One has to this in order to test the part wirh an ohm meter. I found the sw did not close but remained open and thus caused the oven not to function.
Removing interconnect switch is tricky but not difficult.
Outer cover replacement is not as easy as it should be, especially the sides.
All is well and working.
Microwaves are simple devices if you are know how to read and understand schemetic diagrams.
This oven has diffcult electrical connections at switch to get disconnected. I found it easier with the sw loose and in hand so that the connectors can be released with a small screwdriver. ... Read more r />
One has to this in order to test the part wirh an ohm meter. I found the sw did not close but remained open and thus caused the oven not to function.
Removing interconnect switch is tricky but not difficult.
Outer cover replacement is not as easy as it should be, especially the sides.
All is well and working.
Microwaves are simple devices if you are know how to read and understand schemetic diagrams.
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Lack of power to unit
11 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Neil from Williston, VT
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
This is the second time replacing this fuse, last time was exactly one year ago. The first time I replaced it, I removed the oven from the wall & disassembled a number of things to reach the culprit. This time I left the oven mounted & was able to access the 2 grille mounting screws on the top of the grille & remove it. Next comes the bla
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ck plastic air deflector held by two screws & is mounted in front & on the right, it is shown on the parts list just above part #1434. After removing it, remove the two silver cover screws in the front, this cover also doesn't have a part # but is shown to the right of part #1410. At this point you can lift this cover enough to access the fuse which is on the left & held in place by one tiny screw through the clamp at the top, (careful not to drop it when removing). PS: Don't forget to cut the power to the microwave before starting!
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A burnt out bulb
12 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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George from PALM COAST, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
After opening the Oven door, I removed the glass cover to view and locate the bulb, at the inside, top front of the Oven. Removed the burnt out bulb by pulling it in a forward motion towards the front of the Oven, slid the new bulb into place and the Oven is again functional.
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after 3-4 minutes microwave display would blink and unit would just cut out.
12 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Larry from Brookfield, CT
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Wrench set
This was the second time I've had to open up the microwave. 1st time display would blank out but system would continue to operate. Found solder connections on board to LED display were defective. Resoldered and unit was fine. This time I found the connection to the oven cavity temp cut-off was bad, plastic connection cover melted. When
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unit operated bottom lead and wire would heat up. Couldn't measure a Discernable distance so either wire or connector connection surface was not sufficient to carry the current. 1st replaced sensor still wire heated up. Replaced connector and there was no sign how heat from resistances.
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The oven would not hold an even temperature.
7 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jack from Bremerton, WA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I used a Trox bit to remove one screw, replaced the oven sensor and reinstalled the screw. The whole project took less than 5 minutes.
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Oven wouldn't sensor reheat & error code on display
8 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Chris from Springfield, VA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I looked at the exploded pic on your web site to find the location of the sensor. Next I removed the cover by unscrewing 15 screws then swaped the sensor and re assembled! Works great! Fixing it my self I saved at least 150$ and did not have to wait all day for a repair man who probaly would not have the part on the first visit.
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