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PES3759BCW Maytag Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the PES3759BCW
31 - 45 of 273

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After self cleaning the oven received an error code telling me the sensor was bad.
11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Christine from Davie, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the two screws holding the element in place. I then pulled the element and wiring out until I saw the connecter. I disconnected the two wires and then chose the correct connector from the package, snapped it back into place, put the screws back, turned on the breaker then tested the oven and found that everything was working corre ctly.
This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )
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oven getting 50 degrees or more, hotter than setting
10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Wappingers Falls, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
As the video described I just unscrewed the sensor from inside the oven. Although I couldn't pull the wiring harness through the insulation (the wires were gathered in back with a wire tie) just four screws to loosen the back panel for access to the connection. My wife says it seems to be heating perfectly now.
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F1 code and oven wouldn't operate
11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robbie from Hillsboro, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory.
Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on . Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.
Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.
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Burner heat does not turn down
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from Blanchester, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turn off breaker.
Remove knob, pulls off. Pulled stove away from wall.
Removed front panel with switches attached.
There are screws in front and back.
Removed screws that hold switch in place.
Transferred wires one at at time to get proper location.
Reverse process for reassembly
Gary in Ohio
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set oven to self clean and the inner glass broke
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Garry from Livermore, CA
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I removed the door from the oven and set it on towel on the table, and started the repair of the door. I removed the screws one at a time, and one layer at a time. Becareful you need to take the whole door apart, and remember how it goes bact together. In the end it was worth it. The hardest part was getting the right part. I thought I could order the whole door, and found out after several calls they don't sell the whole door. Part Select both times I put in my order had the parts at my door within 2 to 3 days. I also had to return one of the parts and within 2 to 3 days the part was credited to my account
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Lower range burner element burned out
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Andrew from SAINT PAUL, MN
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Should have been under the 'very easy' category, unscrew 2 screws, pull out old element, disconnect wires, reconnect new wires and screw back in. Unfortunately the right wire disconnected while pulling out the element, so I had to pull the the stove out, disconnecting vents in the process, then remove the back to be able to feed the wire back in thru the element hole . While back here I noticed that the reason the wire came off is that the way it was routed behind the stove cover was such that there was virtually no slack to be able to pull the element out in the first place. I'll bet that at the factory, the element was installed first, THEN the wires were connected. Whoever was on the line that day made extra sure of no slack in back, and that made the job take 5-6 times longer than it should have. As for the part replacement, it was a perfect match to the original part so it was super easy once the wire got back in the oven...
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Back heating element stopped working
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Peachtree City, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I had some confusion about the correct series number associated with my stove and called Partselect. They confirmed the part I was looking at was correct in less than 5 minutes. I then completed the order online. Even with standard shipping my order was processed immediately and I received the heating element the next day.
... Read more >Turned off the breaker. Removed the two screws in the front holding the range top down. Loosened the screws holding the element in place while balancing the range top with my shoulder. Removed the wires from the older element one at a time and attached them to the new element. Put the new element in place and screwed back in place. If I had a little help with the range top I think I could have completed it in 5 minutes but I was at home alone and the other stories of doing this repair made it seem easy enough and it was.
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Top oven element burned out
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • robert from Auburn, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplugged the unit. Removed the back of the range and disconnected the top element connectors. Then removed the screws holding top element from inside the range. I did not remove the bottom rack so that my arm could rest on that rather than risk hitting the bottom element. Removed the top element and inserted new element. Placed th e front bracket to hold element in place and tightend the two screws holding the element to the back of the range. Then reattached the connecting wires, replaced the back panel. Then completed attaching the braces holding element to top of range. Did not tighten braces until all screws had been started.
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1998 oven unit flashing F3
10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • chris from houston, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.
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Element Burned out
9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Buford from Sun City Center, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
looked for how to video on you tube. It saved me lots of money. Anyone could do it.
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Burner would only cook on high setting or not heat up at all.
9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Judy from West Salem, IL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Shut off power to stove. Moved stove out. Loosened screws in top and middle back of stove and removed cover. Took mental note of color order of each wire and unhooked each wire from old switch and reattached to new switch in exact order of color of wire as original. Remounted cover on back of stove and reattached screws. Turned on power and turned on burner and tested burner for heat. Turned off burner, slid stove back and bingo - done. Saved a lot of money.
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The oven and ranges would not heat up and an F9 error was displaying on the Oven Screen.
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jared from UNION GROVE, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
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glass pane was cracked during the cleaning process
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ellen from Shelton, CT
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
needed to completely dis assemble the oven door to get to the inner pane of glass...took some time...I was able to do it on my own...could possibly go a little quicker with two people for a few of the steps...but possible by one...then reinserted the glass pane...and then need to re assemble the door layer by layer...up and working again. ..would have cost several hundred dollars if need to call a repair person in...this way was the cost of the piece..less than $70 ... and my time...well worth it....thanks
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my oven would not heat to proper temp
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • mark from CHAMBERLAIN, SD
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. T his repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !
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My old element finally went out
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ricky from JASPER, TX
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Easy peasy...1. Take 2 screws out to remove the back cover. 2. Unplug the 2 wires from the element. 3. Remove the 2 screw holding the element from inside the oven and take out the old element. Repeat the steps above in reverse order.
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All Instructions for the PES3759BCW
31 - 45 of 273