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PES3759BCS Maytag Range - Instructions
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F5 fault code kept appearing
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Louis Rodriguez from Granbury, TX
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed
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it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis
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Replaced upper over light and assembly
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from SAN DIEGO, CA
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I had to pull out the oven and balance the oven on two patio tables. Remove the back of the oven. Pull out the light assembly which was burnt. I was unable to remove the casing around the light, so I destroyed it with a pliers. Reinstalling the new light and assembly was easy. What made this job difficult, I could not remove the light ass
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embly from the front of the oven and had to go in from the back.
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Oven temperature fluctuates
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Larry from SOLON, IA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.
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Element in oven would not adjust to the oven temperature.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Dolores from Edmond, OK
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I ordered the temperature sensor after watching the video and seeing how easily it could be changed out. Unfortunately, they don't tell you that it may be necessary to access the part from the back. When I tried removing the sensor from inside the oven the connection separated before getting to the hole. I tried for 4 days to try to fi
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sh out the other end. Finally, I had my brother help me remove the oven from the wall and take the back off at which time we were able to connect the new sensory. It turns out that the wiring is on the upper right hand corner of the oven and the sensor is on the upper left hand corner and the wiring is rather short. I am a 64 year old female and do the majority of repairs around the house myself, but due to the weight of removing the oven I enlisted the help of my brother. After removing from the wall the rest was a breeze. Just wish the videos or written info on the website was a little more clear as to the different ways of accessing the damaged part.
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Element didn't heat
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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clay from KITTANNING, PA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Took two hex head screws out. Pulled element out slow. Got slack pulled off connections. Reverse order for install
Other Parts Used:
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Burned out burnrr
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Rita from COOPERSBURG, PA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Went well. Husband, who has some appliance repair experience, did repair in less than a hour. Replacement burner was not an exact duplicate of original but he was able to adjust for that.
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Burner did not heat up
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Sergio from JENSEN BEACH, FL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Access to burner nothing like on-line videos:
1) Remove 4 screws under front control panel. (Oven door needs to be open.)
2) Remove 2 flat head screws on sides of control panel. This will loosen control panel. Capture control panel to keep from hanging from wires/connectors. I used hooks made from a wire hanger.
3) Re ... Read more move 2 screws to remove two steel panels on either side of stove.
4) Remove rear screw of the 2 front screws now exposed and 2 rear screws near top of stove.
5) Carefully flip over glass top being careful not to pull on the wires.
6) Identify burner to be replaced. Note 2 numbers where two clamps are attached to burner.
7) Using 3/8” nut driver, remove screws to allow removal of burner. Remove wires per included instructions. Remove burner.
8) Place new burner under clamps and align to the holes by the two numbers noted in step 6 above.
9) Connect wires to new burner as per included instructions.
10) Reverse removal steps.
1) Remove 4 screws under front control panel. (Oven door needs to be open.)
2) Remove 2 flat head screws on sides of control panel. This will loosen control panel. Capture control panel to keep from hanging from wires/connectors. I used hooks made from a wire hanger.
3) Re ... Read more move 2 screws to remove two steel panels on either side of stove.
4) Remove rear screw of the 2 front screws now exposed and 2 rear screws near top of stove.
5) Carefully flip over glass top being careful not to pull on the wires.
6) Identify burner to be replaced. Note 2 numbers where two clamps are attached to burner.
7) Using 3/8” nut driver, remove screws to allow removal of burner. Remove wires per included instructions. Remove burner.
8) Place new burner under clamps and align to the holes by the two numbers noted in step 6 above.
9) Connect wires to new burner as per included instructions.
10) Reverse removal steps.
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Coil shorted out.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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James from HILTON, NY
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter
tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to rem ... Read more ove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil.
Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!
tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to rem ... Read more ove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil.
Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!
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"F3" error message and no oven heat
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Pat from PAYSON, AZ
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and
... Read more
behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!
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Oven door was locked, couldn't set oven temps
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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William from Nashville, TN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off)
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now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!
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Elements burned wouldn't heat
3 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jaime from Deltona, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First I cut electric power off removed the two screws that hold glass top lifted up and removed two screws that hold element in place. I disonnected the wires and then pulled the element out
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Baking element went out
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Deborah from Seattle, WA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed old element, and easily popped in the new one.
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Oven would not hold temperature, not turn on, and would shut off during use.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Arvada, CO
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Phili
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ps head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.
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No problem installing the sensor
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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tommy from FAYETTEVILLE, NC
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted
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The cooling fan was making extremely loud noises when running
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from DENVER, CO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
For the Ikea Range isg650ws01, the repair was very easy.
Step 1) Slide the range away from the wall slowly, verifying occasionally to not strain the gas or electric lines
Step 2) Unplug the range
Step 3) There are 2 phillips heads screws holding the rear panel in place. Remove the two screws and remove t ... Read more he panel.
Step 4) The cooling fan is held in place with 2 phillips head screws. Remove the screws and disconnect the electrical cord
Step 5) install the new cooling fan. The electrical plug can only be inserted one direction, so there shouldn't be a concern that you have the plug installed correctly. Match the original orientation of the fan in the unit. Re-install the 2 screws for the fan, and then install the rear cover. There are 2 slots that the panel needs to slide into in the bottom. Finish the install by installing the 2 screws you removed in to hold the rear panel. Plug the range back in and heat to 450°F to validate the repair.
Step 1) Slide the range away from the wall slowly, verifying occasionally to not strain the gas or electric lines
Step 2) Unplug the range
Step 3) There are 2 phillips heads screws holding the rear panel in place. Remove the two screws and remove t ... Read more he panel.
Step 4) The cooling fan is held in place with 2 phillips head screws. Remove the screws and disconnect the electrical cord
Step 5) install the new cooling fan. The electrical plug can only be inserted one direction, so there shouldn't be a concern that you have the plug installed correctly. Match the original orientation of the fan in the unit. Re-install the 2 screws for the fan, and then install the rear cover. There are 2 slots that the panel needs to slide into in the bottom. Finish the install by installing the 2 screws you removed in to hold the rear panel. Plug the range back in and heat to 450°F to validate the repair.
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