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PER5702BAH Maytag Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the PER5702BAH
91 - 105 of 312

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Replace the oven Sensor
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Exeter, NH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not loo k for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike
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cracked cooktop
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Erik from Lewis Center, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
unscrewed the 6 screws, then disconnected the power supply to the cooktop. Removed the cooktop cleaned the area under the cooktop. Replaced the cooktop, reconnected the power supply and screwed on the cooktop
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Oven and broiler would not heat up
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Oswego, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I got the wiring diagram for the oven online.

I turned off the power and removed the screws on th out sides of the top of the oven (at the control panel) and the screws underneath the front of the control panel (one on each side toward the outside)

I found where power to the oven and broiler elements would be applied .

I verified continuity through the elements, and that voltage was available to the control board.

I then found that voltage was not applied to the elements when they were turned on.

I verified that the thermocouple controlling temperature worked by measuring the output voltage and verifying that it increased when the thrermocouple was heated with a hair dryer.

Since all the inputs to the board (known as "Clock w/Overlay") were good, the board must be bad.

I ordered the board (partselect had the best price).

I removed the four screws holding the board, and removed the push on wiring connections.

I reversed the above process for re-assembly. The only slight complication was that the new board had one additional connection point available that was not on the old board. You don't use it. The new board fits a couple different models.

Turned the power on, then the oven on, then the broiler on, everything worked.

Success!
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Cooling fan runs fault code displayed
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • FRANK from CLARENCE CTR, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it eas ily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done
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Maytag range had "F3" code display, oven would not work.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • phillip from Farmington, NM
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.
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Bake Element shorted out, burned out hi-limit switch
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell from Coppell, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
-Disconnected power from oven at the circuit breaker.
-Removed oven door and racks.
-Removed two screws holding element to the rear wall.
-Carefully pulled element away from rear wall, exposing wire leads.
-Carefully detached wire leads with male Sta-Kon connectors from element ends. (Taking care not to break or weaken the wires at the connector.)
-Disposed of old element and placed new element in same position.
-Re-attached leads by very carefully sliding male Sta-Kon connectors into the new element connectors, taking care not to push too hard and bend element wire.
-Gently re-inserted element ends into wall and re-attached element to wall with original screws.
-Reconnected power and tested new element. Element did not heat.
-Disconnected power and looked for collateral damage from original element failure.
-Removed oven from wall, removed rear panel and identified the high-temperature limit switch.
-Removed Sta-Kon leads and checked switch for electrical continuity. It had none, apparently the result of the high current from original element short.
-Obtained new hi-limit switch from Part Select
-Removed and replaced hi-limit switch, re-attached leads.
-Replaced rear panel and reinserted oven in wall.
-Reconnected power and tested new element. Element heated normally.
-Returned racks to oven, re-attached door and done.
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No temperature control
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Max from Houston, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way. Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.
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i had to replace my oven element as is cracked in half
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • barbara from greenville, SC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
after finding my part and thank god for you guys i recieved it early it only took 4 days to get here i unscrewed my old oven part and popped the new one in easier than making cookies and now i can bake til my hearts content thanks for being there for me
barbara krebs
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Oven Temperature was 50 degrees low
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eugene from Clinton, IA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.
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the lower baking element of the oven did a 4th of July sparkler show coming right out of the oven door three days before Thanksgiving
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeffrey from Steelville, MO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I had the part overnighted since Thanksgiving was in two days and we needed to be able to use the oven. I saw a video on the website that instructed how to unplug the stove. Unscrew the baking element from the inside of back wall of oven. Gently pull out the part to where it is attached to wires. Simply pull apart the male part from f emale parts. Replace the old element with new element and attach it to the pulled out wires. Then gently push back wires inside the back wall of oven. Screw the attachment back in. We then plugged the oven back in. Turned on the oven to about 300 degrees. We put an oven temperature gauge inside and after a time the oven temperature was at 300 degrees and steady. It was fixed. Thanksgiving was on!
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replacing broken bottom baking element
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thea from Greeley, CO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
the hardest part of this repair was the wait for the element to arrive in the mail - which was in 4 business days - then took 5 to 10 minutes to get to circuit breaker box in garage. That was the longest part of the repair. My husband took the door off the oven after turning the circuit off in the garage. Followed directions from other s who made the same repair and it was done in 2 minutes! Super easy - thanks for saving us money during this time of tight budgeting around the holidays! You're a lifesaver!
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front burner would not heat
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack A from Biloxi, MS
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
simply took off smooth surface top flipped it upsde down on a towel. unbolted the entire burner assembly. matched connections with the new burner with limit switch. replaced smooth surface top plugged it in. no problems. extremely easy fix no repair charges.
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I needed a broiler pan
4 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rhoda P. from Secaucus, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.
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Bake element went out
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tom from Hurst, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I turned the power off to the oven using the breaker switch. Removed the old bake element by first unscrewing the 2 screws for each bracket holding each side of the old bake element and unplugging the two current connections.

Replugged and rescrewed above. Turned breaker on for oven. Tested by turning oven to back an d watching new bake element heat up.
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Element was broken(literally).
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Heidi from Lakeland, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First, turn off the breaker to the range. Then just remove the 2 screws that hold the element at the back of the oven. Pull the wire connectors apart or push them off with a regular screwdriver. Instructions that I read said to make sure the wires don't fall back through the holes, but in our case the insulation held them in place. Reconn ect the wire connectors to the new element and reattach with the screws. Easy!
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All Instructions for the PER5702BAH
91 - 105 of 312