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PER5515BCW Maytag Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Bake element
19 of 25 people
found this instruction helpful.
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sherri from knightdale, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Real easy to do. I just unscrewed from back pulled out until wire can out of back then seperated from wire. Took out element put new one in. Real easy didn't even need my husband
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Oven door locked and was flashing code F4
17 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mary L. from Trinity, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were
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melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..
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Top element wasn't working on ~1.5 year old oven
15 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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gabrielle from Hopewell Junction, NY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
FIgured it was either a bad heating element or a realy expensive repair so I purchased a replacement element to rule out the simple and inexpensive possibility. Pulled oven out from wall and disconnected power supply. Removed retaining bracket from top of oven, two screws that held in heating element, disconnected from fittings, replace
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d with new element, and reattached screws and retaining bracket. Plugged in power supply, tested lower oven (it worked just fine) pushed oven back against the wall. Threw away the old element and packaging. Job done.
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defective oven sensor
17 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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sean from easthampton, MA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires to
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gether and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.
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My wife destroyed the oven door seal with oven cleaner...
14 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Bexley, OH
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I ordered the part one afternoon. It arrived before noon the next day. Then I simply removed the old seal (with about 2 dozen spring clips). Inserted the new part by carefully inserting the new seal into its corresponding hole at each end and then worked my way around the seal while inserting each attached spring clip into its correspon
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ding hole.
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Broken burner and old drip pans not able to get clean
13 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Karen from Hillsboro, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Actually, no repair was needed. I just removed the old drip pans and my burners snap in and out, so it could not have been easier! I simply looked up the parts on your web-site, ordered and completed my transaction in about 5 minutes. The parts were delivered in two days - amazing! It could not have been easier!!!!!! I don't like to shop
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and this would have taken me forever to find a place that would have helped me locate parts.
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Code said we needed a sensor
12 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Janice from Portland, OR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.
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replace bake element
11 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Wil from Wichita, KS
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
very very easy. but keep in mind that step one, killing the power at the power box. I jumped that one to a near disastours outcome, thankully all turned out well byt there was a hell of bang and VERY bright flash. Still was worth "doing it yourself" just keep in mine the cut power side...Safety first!!!
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Surface element light on when all are off.
13 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carl from Williamsburg, OH
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
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Screw drivers
I raised the stove top to verify with a volt meter that electricity was truely going to the elements and which ones were receiving current. I removed the back panels to gain access to the controls and wiring. After checking the circuitry with the volt meter I determined that one of the thermostatic controls was defective. I ordered a new
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control and 8" burner (which showed signs of deterioration) from PartSelect and received them the next afternoon. It took less than an hour to reassemble.
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Burner was out but the burner coil worked on onother burner
10 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from Orange, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
Replaced receptacle but it was not the problem. After further inspection I believe that the problem is the switch. The switch is on order now from Part Select.
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After self cleaning the oven received an error code telling me the sensor was bad.
11 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Christine from Davie, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Removed the two screws holding the element in place. I then pulled the element and wiring out until I saw the connecter. I disconnected the two wires and then chose the correct connector from the package, snapped it back into place, put the screws back, turned on the breaker then tested the oven and found that everything was working corre
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ctly.
This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )
This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )
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oven wouldn't heat
12 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from walnutport, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
removed the screws,pulled the element out about 3 inches disconnected the 2 wires
Other Parts Used:
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oven getting 50 degrees or more, hotter than setting
10 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from Wappingers Falls, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
As the video described I just unscrewed the sensor from inside the oven. Although I couldn't pull the wiring harness through the insulation (the wires were gathered in back with a wire tie) just four screws to loosen the back panel for access to the connection. My wife says it seems to be heating perfectly now.
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F1 code and oven wouldn't operate
11 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robbie from Hillsboro, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver
I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory.
Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on ... Read more . Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.
Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.
Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on ... Read more . Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.
Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.
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Burner heat does not turn down
9 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gary from Blanchester, OH
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Turn off breaker.
Remove knob, pulls off. Pulled stove away from wall.
Removed front panel with switches attached.
There are screws in front and back.
Removed screws that hold switch in place.
Transferred wires one at at time to get proper location.
Reverse process for reassembly
Gary in Ohio
Remove knob, pulls off. Pulled stove away from wall.
Removed front panel with switches attached.
There are screws in front and back.
Removed screws that hold switch in place.
Transferred wires one at at time to get proper location.
Reverse process for reassembly
Gary in Ohio
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