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PER4510ACW Maytag Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the PER4510ACW
31 - 45 of 344

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Bake element stopped working
8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Melanie from Renton, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
This was a complete no brainer. The easiest repair I have ever done. Take out the old screws, remove element and replace with new one, replace screws. Took less than 5 minutes :)
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1998 oven unit flashing F3
10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • chris from houston, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.
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burner receptacle burned out
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from N. Haverhill, NH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Worst part of the job was removing the old screws that held the two old rectecles in place for the two burners I repaired. Once the screws were removed cut the wires stripped them and used the porceliean wire nuts provided with the kit. Easy job and good instructions.
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The oven and ranges would not heat up and an F9 error was displaying on the Oven Screen.
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jared from UNION GROVE, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
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Burner would only cook on high setting or not heat up at all.
9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Judy from West Salem, IL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Shut off power to stove. Moved stove out. Loosened screws in top and middle back of stove and removed cover. Took mental note of color order of each wire and unhooked each wire from old switch and reattached to new switch in exact order of color of wire as original. Remounted cover on back of stove and reattached screws. Turned on power and turned on burner and tested burner for heat. Turned off burner, slid stove back and bingo - done. Saved a lot of money.
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Seal was fallinig off
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marilyn from Fresno, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
My husband did it. I was not there to see it. He said it took less than one minute, just snapped in and worked beautifully.
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my oven would not heat to proper temp
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • mark from CHAMBERLAIN, SD
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. T his repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !
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Stove top wouldn't come on. Oven couldn't go higher than low heat
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter from FREDERICK, MD
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answer ed my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland
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broil element burn out
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JORGE from CANTONMENT, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Shipped on timely manner,I will order again from Part Select, installing was a 15 minute job, that what I did, 1 unplugged stove, 2) removed 4 screws, (2 on top bracket and 2 on back) , 3) slide unit out couple inches enough to disconnected the wires from each end of unit and removed old part, installed new unit by reconnecting end wir es, pushing unit slowly toward back of oven until wires find it's right position, set it back in place with the 2 screws on top bracket and 2 screws on back, done!!
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Broil element broke/burned out
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Woonsocket, RI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I just bought my first condo and sure enough something broke in my oven. I thought "Oh great - I'll need to buy a new one..." After some research and a friend's advice - I was assured that I only needed to replace the broiler element. After researching the issue I googled replacement parts which led me to this web-site. I was amazed h ow easy and inexpensive it was for me to replace the part. The directions were easy, simple, and spot-on! The instructions that were provided were easy to follow. I also utilized YouTube instructions as well for additional visual guidance. The shipping was super fast and the element was packaged very well. Thank you so much!
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Replacement of bad switch
8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Don from Roanoke, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I marked all wires separately attaching a paper strip with tape to each connector and made a separate small chart where each wire should attach to the bottom of the switch. On this particular model there are three or four colored wires and two have both double and single connections to the same switch so the small chart told me where a s ingle or double connector would attach even if I lost the attached taped information. Then since wires were marked separately, even if paper was lost I could still proceed with no outside help.
I had the luxury of leaving the breaker shut off while waiting for part to arrive. After arrival which was only a couple of days, I raised the stove top and let it rest on a small board maybe 1.5 feet so it would keep itself up.
The under assembly was already taken loose before so I just removed the broken switch taking all wires loose, which are already marked and replaced the switch with the new one. Gently placing each wire at its place after removing the tape for that connection. After all four wires were connected I held the switch up in place while screwing the two set screws into place. Then reattached the bottom assembly cover and then let the top down and reattached the four screws, one in each stove hole to attach the stove top to the under assembly. I then reattached one element and flipped the breaker switch on. No sound or problems so I tried the element and all is well. Reattached all elements and the project is done. PartSelect.com made this repair easy and economical. Replacement would have been 4x the part and shipping. Thanks.
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light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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Oven sensor caused cooling fan to run continuously. Had to flip breaker to get it to turn off..
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Aubrey from EADS, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.
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Heating element broke, needed replacement
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • thomas from LOUISVILLE, KY
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Repairman wanted $99 just to come look at it, then the cost to fix it. I got online, found the part, 2 screws and $40 later and all fixed. Wife baked me an apple pie that evening, better than ever!
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Bad Door Gasket.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donald from Schuylkill Haven, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
First I took the new gasket out of the plastic bag to make sure it was the right size. Then I proceded to take the old gasket out by pulling it with a long noise pliers. Then I took the new gasket and went around the door putting the pins in the holes that, the old gasket was in. That,s about it.
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All Instructions for the PER4510ACW
31 - 45 of 344