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PCS968DR1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the PCS968DR1WW
46 - 60 of 60

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Cooktop cleaner was sprayed on top of dial causing short circuit
  • Michael from Jacksonville, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
A cleaning spray was allowed to caused a short circuit of the infinite control switch. Here is the sequence of a very easy way to repair it: Turn off the power to the unit. Take the bottom metal cover off. You should be able to find the one that was burnt out (my was the bigger surface burner switch). Take photos of how each colored wire are connected ( I used my cell phone). Review the photos!! You will see that the switch has two clamps holding the metal cover to the plastic casing on the sides. Using a narrow screw driver, pop loose the plastic casing from the metal clamps. This way you don't have to take the unit totally apart. The metal casing should be fine. Clean it well, making sure it is dry. Take the new switch and also take the plastic casing from the metal top cover. Replace the metal pin and the plastic casing only. Make sure you line it up the same way with the little blue box in the same orientation. You may not have enough room for your hand and your view. By feel, you should be able to place it there and pop it in. Check the taken photos and connect the wires following the same diagram. Replace back the metal cover. Turn the power on. Enjoy dinner!!! Michael.
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broiler element burned completely out
  • Raymond from Highland, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
Moved stove out away from wall .Unplugged stove, turned gas off. Unit is a dual fuel convection. Burners are gas, oven is electric. Removed 4 screws from back shield and exposed the 2 electrical leads connected to broiler element. Disconnected the electrical .Inside oven I removed the front bracket holding element in place, then removed t he 2 1/4 screws in the back holding element in place. placed new element in and finger tightened the 2 screws, next I installed the front bracket and finger tightened those. I then snugged the rear screws in followed by the front. I went to the back and reconnected the 2 electrical leads. Replaced back shield and plugged unit in and turned gas back on.Caution; Make sure your gas line is flexible before moving your stove out to far. Repair was very easy
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The large front right burner of the radiant cooktop did not work
  • Arthur from Sarasota, FL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Turned off the power at the breaker. Then I lifted the cooktop by pressing up from the bottom, while my wife slid two boards over the recess. I lowered the cooktop onto the boards, removed 12 screws around the perimeter of the case and carefully lifted the glass top and placed it on a towel on the DR table. (remove the control knobs first ) removed the wires leading to the infinite control, marking which color when where, removed the two screws holding the infinite control, and replaced the old with the new. Reattached the wires, replaced the cooktop, replaced the screws, held it up while my wife removed the boards and then carefully lowered the cooktop into the recess. Attached the knobs, flipped the breaker back on and turned control to hi. It worked!
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missing meat thermistor
  • John R from Asheville, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
plug in thermistor when needed
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Broiler Element Replacement
  • Emily from Snoqualmie Pass, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
There were two small screws at the back of the stove (this was the part that intimidated me. At first glance it doesn't look like it should be removed). But you just have to unscrew them, disconnect the wires behind them (this part can be done by hand), and pull the element out. The new element slides right in! Just make sure the power to the stove is disconnected either by breaker or by unplugging it. I'm not sure if it matters, but I made sure to connect the wires to the same side of the element that they were removed from.
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burner worked on high only
  • Carl from Delray Beach, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Followed directions from Rodney of Erath La. Directions were perfect and helped me to decide to under take this job. Job took a little longer spending some time to clean the glass top on both sides and around the counter top where it mounts. The actual repair time was quick and easy thanks to Rodney. Price of the part was reasonable an d delivery got here quick. Will deal with parts select again! Carl from Florida
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oven continued to get F2, F3 and F5 error messages when ovewn got hot
  • Ralph from Redding, CA
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
This repair was quite a bit more difficult then what had been described on the web site. First off, I have a double wall oven that is built in. Sliding it out of the cabinet was difficult and because oven was hard wired, I had to disconnect the actual wiring from the oven back. . Positioning the oven and allowing for it to rest on a s upport bench was the most difficult part The oven is heavy. Eventually, removing the back and top panels of the oven revealed the sensor connection. I was then able to feed it through the oven and reconnect all the wiring harnesses.. Getting the oven back in the cabinet was equally a challenge. But it did seem to fix the problem with over heating.
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Oven Sensor Replacement
  • Barbara from Edwardsville, IL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
The part was just like the old one and would have been an easy fix except our range suffered from a lighting hit. The clips had melted together. Called a dealer and asked about a new wiring harness. He said in those cases just cut the clip off and hard wire with wire clips,or firecrackers. We used wire nuts and taped all together and the oven works just great. Nothing is ever as easy as it should be.
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All Instructions for the PCS968DR1WW
46 - 60 of 60