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PCB980SJ4SS General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the PCB980SJ4SS
31 - 45 of 129

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Oven light did not work
9 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Howard from Rio Vista, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Turned off power to the oven, Removed the oven light housing, installed new housing, turned power on and walla.
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switch went to high setting no matter what the setting was
10 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from Glen Cove, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
took off cover, pulled all wires off switch, pushed wires on new switch, put cover back on. Whalaa..
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Wife broke the interior window by splashing water on it while heated to 450.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from GRETNA, NE
  • Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Well I did it all wrong from the get go. I did finally do a search on how to replace it and then it was quite easy. Learn from me, watch video and save yourself tons of hassle.
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Burner kept heating even when it was turned off, needed switch replacement
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from DERRY, NH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1) REMOVE ELECTRIC PLUG FROM OUTLET. 2) Pull oven away from wall. 3) Remove the 3 machine screws holding in the top piece of sheet metal. 4) remove top piece of back sheet metal 5) pull knob of the front of the switch. 6) remove the two screws holding the switch to the front of stove. 7) remove wires (needle nose is helpful) one at a time and put them in the same location on the new switch. 8) put new switch into location on the stove and screw in the two front screws. 9) replace sheet metal on the back and screw in the 3 machine screws that hold it in. 10) plug in stove and move it back into position 11) put the knob back on the front and test it to make sure it works ok. 12) be sure to remove power if you need to do open the stove again to correct anything.
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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from DOVER, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
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Red Light On
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lawrence from DECATUR, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Red Light Off
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When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from Bolton, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
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Oven in accurate temp too low.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from LIBERTY HILL, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.
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Light not working tried to Remove light assembly not knowing glass could screw out. Without thinking grounded exposed hot wire to burner bracket melting light socket connector. Had to replace socket.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from CUMMING, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
First and most important trun off curcit breaker. Use 1/4 inch but driver to remove socket (2) screws. Remove ground and hot wire clips from old socket, replace on new socket. Screw back into oven ceiling and turn on power. Reset clock and your are done. Very simple.
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Outer element not working
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from Stevensville, MD
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turn off breaker to stove. Remove 2 screws in front under stove top molding. Raise stove top from front on hinges in back. I used a piece of wood to support top up while I worked on burner. Remove screws holding old burner in place. I found my problem on the old burner - the outer element had been shorted and fried. Carefully remove e ach wire and reinstall in new burner in proper location. Reinstall burner and stove top with old screws.
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surface burner switch was burned
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • abbas from redmond, WA
  • Really Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After receiving the new swith from part select in less than four days with surface mail as they promised, it took me less than five minutes to replace the new swith with the old one. The only tools that I needed were A) a 5/16 nut driver to remove the back panel in order to get an access to the swith.B) a phillips screw driver to remove t he swith assembley from the front panel.

I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)
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GE oven showed "F2" error code and was over-heating
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kyle from AURORA, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.
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the temp was not accurate
7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • scott from new harmony, UT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
had to remove the oven from the wall. once i realized that i had to take the side wall brackets off before removing the oven it was quite easy. then just had to remove oven door and slide the unit onto a chair while replacing the sensor. put it all back in and the wife was so happy to have her oven back she made me a batch of brownies. yu m.
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Stovetop radiant burner went out
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from Marietta, GA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned off power at circuit breaker. Disconnected electrical connections from stove and lifted stove top out of counter. Removed glass top by removing about 8 screws from side of stove top.Replaced burner element and replaced glass top.
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wire connection to socket was bad
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Gansevoort, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Disconnected the old socket ( 2 srews ) removed the two wires from the old socket, reconnected them to the new socket and reinstalled the lamp.
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All Instructions for the PCB980SJ4SS
31 - 45 of 129