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PCB975DN1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the PCB975DN1WW
91 - 105 of 133

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3 of 4 Oven Lamps burnt out
  • Dave from Woodbine, MD
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Remove the glass cover to the halogen lamp fixture (counter clockwise turn, about a 1/4 turn). Recommend use of rubber coated gloves as the glass covers do not offer much by way of a good grip. Gently remove the halogen lamp (bulb) and insert new bulb into socket. Since the oven door is open, the lamp will light up indicating successful installation. Replace the glass cover (clockwise turn) until secure. Pitch the burnt out halogen lamp in the trash.
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Fan knob was loose due to the metal insert being missing
  • Maurice from Grand River, IA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Removed the knob and replaced it with the new knob. Didn't even break a sweat!
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missing meat thermistor
  • John R from Asheville, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
plug in thermistor when needed
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The large front right burner of the radiant cooktop did not work
  • Arthur from Sarasota, FL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Turned off the power at the breaker. Then I lifted the cooktop by pressing up from the bottom, while my wife slid two boards over the recess. I lowered the cooktop onto the boards, removed 12 screws around the perimeter of the case and carefully lifted the glass top and placed it on a towel on the DR table. (remove the control knobs first ) removed the wires leading to the infinite control, marking which color when where, removed the two screws holding the infinite control, and replaced the old with the new. Reattached the wires, replaced the cooktop, replaced the screws, held it up while my wife removed the boards and then carefully lowered the cooktop into the recess. Attached the knobs, flipped the breaker back on and turned control to hi. It worked!
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gasket on door was brittle
  • Barbara from Bethesda, MD
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I feel like Macho Mom. I called in the repair guy since I was afraid of dealing with the gas. HE repaired one item but could tell I was comfortable fixing things and pointed out that the gasket was brittle and would cause major problems if not replaced. Took longer to order the part than do the repair, don't know what I was afraid of!
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Burner not operational.
  • Gerald from Philadelphia, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Disconnected power supply. Removed damaged element by releasing retainer clips and unplugging wire contacts. Replaced with new element.
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Oven slow to heat up
  • Joe from Harkers Is., NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.
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The oven temperature could not be controlled
  • Keith from Annapolis, MD
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!
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Cooktop cleaner was sprayed on top of dial causing short circuit
  • Michael from Jacksonville, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
A cleaning spray was allowed to caused a short circuit of the infinite control switch. Here is the sequence of a very easy way to repair it: Turn off the power to the unit. Take the bottom metal cover off. You should be able to find the one that was burnt out (my was the bigger surface burner switch). Take photos of how each colored wire are connected ( I used my cell phone). Review the photos!! You will see that the switch has two clamps holding the metal cover to the plastic casing on the sides. Using a narrow screw driver, pop loose the plastic casing from the metal clamps. This way you don't have to take the unit totally apart. The metal casing should be fine. Clean it well, making sure it is dry. Take the new switch and also take the plastic casing from the metal top cover. Replace the metal pin and the plastic casing only. Make sure you line it up the same way with the little blue box in the same orientation. You may not have enough room for your hand and your view. By feel, you should be able to place it there and pop it in. Check the taken photos and connect the wires following the same diagram. Replace back the metal cover. Turn the power on. Enjoy dinner!!! Michael.
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f-2 or f-3
  • daniel from gap, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in
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My upper oven, lower heating element burnt out .
  • John from Salem, NH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Shut off power to oven. Removed upper oven door and cooking racks. Removed 2, 1/4" bolt, pulled element away from oven back wall and unplugged the 2 wires that went into the heating element and removed the element. Reinstalled the new element by plugging in the 2 wires to the element, pushing the wires back through the back of the oven an d reinstalled the 2, 1/4" bolts. Reinstalled the cooking racks and oven door. The complete from start to finish time took about 15 minutes.
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Convection fan came loose from shaft
  • Thomas from Albuquerque, NM
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the rep lacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."
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F2 reading
  • lynn from sunnyside, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.
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oven temp. was not what setting called for
  • John from Acme, WA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
turned oven off, pulled oven out from wall, removed back of oven, unscrewed sensor from oven replaced with new sensor, put back on, turned power to oven on, tried oven at 425, my temp. gage and the oven temp matched. a very easy fix.
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burner worked on high only
  • Carl from Delray Beach, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Followed directions from Rodney of Erath La. Directions were perfect and helped me to decide to under take this job. Job took a little longer spending some time to clean the glass top on both sides and around the counter top where it mounts. The actual repair time was quick and easy thanks to Rodney. Price of the part was reasonable an d delivery got here quick. Will deal with parts select again! Carl from Florida
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All Instructions for the PCB975DN1WW
91 - 105 of 133