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PCB969SR2SS General Electric Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Getting the right stove model number and part number
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Gerald from San Diego, CA
- Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Difficulty was in determining the right model number and part number of a switch. Noted that the left front burner came on when the switch for the left back burner was turned on. By inspection I found the left front burner switch had become faulty by actually hearing an electric arc in the switch and smelling the oder in the switch. With
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help from the person I called I was able to determine that the Model Number on the actual stove was wrong. It had an extra 0 between the W and F which she said was a common error in the GE model number. I then gave the switch number I found on the switch to the contact person and she was able to verify the right part number. It was relatively easy to replace the switch by taking off the back upper plate then taking off two screws that held the switch to the stove. The part came quite quickly once ordered. Sears repair wanted $75 just to diagnose then the cost of the part. I got the switch for $69.
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Oven Sensor Replacement
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Barbara from Edwardsville, IL
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
The part was just like the old one and would have been an easy fix except our range suffered from a lighting hit. The clips had melted together. Called a dealer and asked about a new wiring harness. He said in those cases just cut the clip off and hard wire with wire clips,or firecrackers. We used wire nuts and taped all together and
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the oven works just great. Nothing is ever as easy as it should be.
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Right front burner not getting hot
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Cory from Honesdale, PA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
After searching the internet for a cause for the burner not getting hot it looked as though it was the burner switch. I ordered the switch and installed it. Behold it still did not work. I then ordered the burner, installed it and it worked. So I had a 50/50 chance as to which part was the problem. This was my first stove repair and I
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found it easy to do. Finding something to hold up the ceramic cooktop took the most time. I cut a piece of wood to prop it up while I replaced the burner.
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burn out switches
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Thomas from Hinesville, GA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Pull stove out from the wall unplug it remove the old switches and replaced them withe new one. they work just fine.
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Oven Probe broke
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Kathleen from Munt Laurel, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Ordered new probe
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Open Switch
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John from Denham Springs, LA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Pull knob. Pull wires. Pull two screws. Replace switch
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missing meat thermistor
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John R from Asheville, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
plug in thermistor when needed
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Burner Would Not Turn Off
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BILLY from WEBSTER, FL
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Replace control switch
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oven continued to get F2, F3 and F5 error messages when ovewn got hot
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Ralph from Redding, CA
- Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
This repair was quite a bit more difficult then what had been described on the web site. First off, I have a double wall oven that is built in. Sliding it out of the cabinet was difficult and because oven was hard wired, I had to disconnect the actual wiring from the oven back. . Positioning the oven and allowing for it to rest on a s
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upport bench was the most difficult part The oven is heavy. Eventually, removing the back and top panels of the oven revealed the sensor connection. I was then able to feed it through the oven and reconnect all the wiring harnesses.. Getting the oven back in the cabinet was equally a challenge. But it did seem to fix the problem with over heating.
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