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PB978TP4WW General Electric Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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oven was not getting up to temp
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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walter from townshend, VT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver
Once I opened up the back of the range, the sensor wires where there and burnt just like your info said. One nut to take off in the oven and the sensor came right out and the new one went right in. The oven works great, cooked the turkey today. The worst part of the repare was the cleaning behind and under the range, it hasn't moved since
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it was put in 6 years ago. Very pleased with PS.
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F2 error when oven was heating up, along with a beeping noise and then it shut off
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lori from Paris, TN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplugged oven, turned off breaker, took cover off back of oven, removed old sensor by disconnecting in back of oven and undoing screw inside oven. Pulled old one out replaced with new took 15min. Cost me less than $20. Parts Select rocks! Even received part in two days with standard shipping!
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Light burnt out.
2 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Roscoe G from ROCHESTER, NY
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.
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F2 error code
0 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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jud from gatesville, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Really easy fix. Unplug oven. With a 5/16 nut driver take the 5 screws out of the center long tin cover and remove. Unplug little white temperature sensor plug located between broil heating element. Open oven door and remove one screw holding temp. sensor using same nut driver and simply pull out old sensor. Install new sensor. It's tha
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t easy. No more f2 been working like a champ!!!
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Oven Probe broke
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Kathleen from Munt Laurel, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Ordered new probe
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Flashing F2 and erratic temperature readings.
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Kenneth from Salem, OR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver
Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.
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Oven temperature was low when reading was correct
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Orion from Vancouver, WA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver
First of all, the sensor had the proper ohm reading...at ambient temperatures. I suspected the sensor because it would jump in large degree increments over 200°F. From what I read online, the only other part that would cause this was a faulty circuit board. I opted to try the $20 part first vs. the $200 part. It worked. One screw on the b
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ack top of the inside is all that holds the sensor in. Pull the wires out and you will find a quick-disconnect. New part had the same connector (thank you). Thread the wires back through the hole and replace the screw. Works like a champion (verified with an independent thermometer. That is all she wrote. I only wish I purchased two, since they don't last that long... 4 years...or so. I just bought the house built in 2007 and empty for a year... and it took 45 minutes to cook a pizza, and even then the bottom dough was light. A house without an oven is like a hot dog without mustard!
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oven not warming, f2 indicating overheat
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David from Lisle, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a cham
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p. Took 5 minutes.
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missing meat thermistor
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John R from Asheville, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
plug in thermistor when needed
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gasket on door was brittle
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Barbara from Bethesda, MD
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I feel like Macho Mom. I called in the repair guy since I was afraid of dealing with the gas. HE repaired one item but could tell I was comfortable fixing things and pointed out that the gasket was brittle and would cause major problems if not replaced. Took longer to order the part than do the repair, don't know what I was afraid of!
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Burner not operational.
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Gerald from Philadelphia, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Disconnected power supply. Removed damaged element by releasing retainer clips and unplugging wire contacts. Replaced with new element.
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F2 reading
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lynn from sunnyside, NY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.
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f-2 or f-3
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daniel from gap, PA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in
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Convection fan came loose from shaft
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Thomas from Albuquerque, NM
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the rep
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lacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."
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The oven temperature could not be controlled
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Keith from Annapolis, MD
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Socket set
Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later.
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Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!
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