PB970KM1CC General Electric Range - Instructions

I thought it was the burner thermostat, so I replaced the burner unit. By coincidence, the ceramic outer portion of the burner was cracked in two places, but otherwise intact. That was not the problem, though since the new burner did the same thing as the old one. Then I new it was the Infinite Control Switch, so I ordered it. Repl ... Read more acing it was easy. I turned off the cooktop circuit breaker and made sure no power was going to it. It is powered by 240 volts so you need to be very careful to turn off the power before doing any servicing on it. I then carefully pried up the glass cooktop and lifted it out, so it wouldn't break. By taking off the control knobs, and removing several small Phillips head screws all around the metal cooktop frame and just under the edge of the glass cooktop, I could lift the glass top off from the cooktop, and place it on some newspaper so it didn't get broken. It is important to keep the rest of the cooktop upright. The burners are not fastened down, and only gravity holds them in place. They normally sit on two springloaded pins, one on each side, and the weight of the glasstop pushes them down to their proper setting. So don't mess with them, and make sure each side remains on the two pins after you're done and before putting the glasstop back on. As for the switch, you need to remove two small 1/4 inch metal screws (a socket is very handy for this), one on each side of a metal framework that holds all the switches. After removing that framework, I carefully turned it over and found the correct switch for the burner that wasn't working. In my case, it was the closest right hand burner, which is also the biggest and has the option of having a big, small or both elements turned on, depending on how you turn the control switch. I then carefully pulled off each wire lead, with a needlenose plier to avoid damaging them, and immediately put each wire onto the corresponding same connection on the new switch. Take a close look at the wires on the old switch to make sure you plug them into the same connectors on the new switch. It's pretty straightforward. There may have been one or two small screws holding the switch onto the framework, but I don't recall right now. It was very easy to see how to remove and then reattach it. Then reverse the above steps and reinstall the cooktop, turn on the power and you should be in business!

Turn off power to cook top. Remove 2 screws that hold the cook top to countertop. Lift complete cook top from counter and place diagonally across opening. Remove 10 screws that hold glass top to the component cabinet. Make a diagram of wiring to element. Disconnect wires. Remove 2 mounting brackets from bottom of old element and posi ... Read more tion them on new element and screw tight. Wire new element as diagrammed earlier. Replace glass top on component cabinet and reinstall 10 screws. Place unit back into counter opening and secure with 2 straps. Turn power back on. Stand back and enjoy your accomplishment.

Very simple repair. Remove two screws to lift the range top. Then remove the two screws holding the element in place. Disconnect the wires from the old element, connect the wires to the new element. Reverse the procedure and you are done. Total time is anywhere from 15 to 30 minutes.

after removing the two screws that are just inside the oven, I propted the top open with the box that the part came in. I drew and labeled the wires as I took them off using a color coding. next I removed the two clips that held the burner in place and marked on the new burner exactly where the clips were attached. Replacing the clips ... Read more was possibly the hardest part of the whole operation. When you replace the burner, don't forget to replace the insulation pad that is stuck one the metal where the conections are. I missed this and had to reopen the stovetop and slid it on after I was finished. Otherwise it went pretty smooth.

My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),r ... Read more ed] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.

Sensor is in rear and on top ov oven. What could be a 10" job took 45". My problem was the oven door was diffinately in the way. Also I wear bifocals which makes me tilt head to see nuts. I felt like a contortionist. HINT: remove door and give yourself some room to work.

I removed the screws from the underside of the stovetop, lifted up the top, propped it up to keep it from falling (using a large book), and removed the old burner by unscrewing it from the top and removing the wire connections. I then screwed the new burner into the top, and attached the wires back to the burner, dropped the top down (ge ... Read more ntly and carefully, of course), and screwed the top back down to the rest of the stove. It was fairly quick and painless. Although, putting the stove back into his position was not easy, but that was no fault of the stove!!

it went well as compared to getting a new ~~800$ cooktop and ~~150 to install, I took a shot for 30$ bucks and it worked great!! problem solved and great support ! !! thanks for all your help

Not only did we (my wife did help) replace the dual element but afterwards we realized the control switch was not functioning properly and so that was replaced as well, and now our appliance works as intended. Also the instructions, are helpful as well. We used care not to force or over tighten anything and with two sets of eyes and the e ... Read more xtra hands everything went much better. Anything that was removed was noted as to it's location and replaced .

Removed torx screws for door handle as well as torx screws for both hinges to separate the door halves to extract broken glass and to install new glass panel. Other reviews said not to remove hinge screws, however I had no problem reinstalling them.

Turn off breaker, disconnect electrical wiring, remove cooktop from courter top, turn over , remove switch.

Removed screws holding temp sensor, pulled wire out from behind wall until found connector, disconnected old sensor.
Measured resistance of old sensor and compared with new sensor, they measured nearly the same. Installed the new sensor and tested the stove. Came up to temp ok. No problem since, about 2 weeks.

took bulb out, but new one in lol

1) Shut off power to oven
2) Removed oven door using snap down hinges on door
3) Removed 4-phillips head screws holding the oven frame to cabinets
4) Pulled oven out of cabinet and set it on stool in front of opening
5) Remove 2-hex screws holding metal shield covering the electrical wiring on back of oven
6) Unpl ... Read more ugged bad thermostat connector
7) Removed the single hex screw holding thermostat inside the oven
8) Pulled the thermostat and lead wire from oven
9) Fed the new thermostat wire into inside back of oven
10) Reverse steps 1-7

Pull oven out away from the wall, unplugged from outlet, removed center cover by removing 5 sheet metal screws. disconnected thermostat sensor from control cable. Opened oven door and removed screw that holds thermostat sensor. Pulled thermostat sensor out replaced with new sensor. Plugged sensor in to control cable. Replace panel and scr ... Read more ews. Then my wife made me clean the oven. I recommend making the repair when your wife is not home.