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PB920TP1WW General Electric Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Oven Probe broke
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Kathleen from Munt Laurel, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Ordered new probe
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oven not warming, f2 indicating overheat
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David from Lisle, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a cham
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p. Took 5 minutes.
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Flashing F2 and erratic temperature readings.
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Kenneth from Salem, OR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.
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f-2 or f-3
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daniel from gap, PA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in
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Convection fan came loose from shaft
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Thomas from Albuquerque, NM
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the rep
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lacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."
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F2 reading
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lynn from sunnyside, NY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.
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missing meat thermistor
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John R from Asheville, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
plug in thermistor when needed
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Burner not operational.
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Gerald from Philadelphia, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Disconnected power supply. Removed damaged element by releasing retainer clips and unplugging wire contacts. Replaced with new element.
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Bottom trim on oven door rusted - poor GE design
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Wallace from Vestal, NY
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
In order to replace the bottom trim (and side trims if needed) it is necessary to separate the oven door front panel and its outer glass from the inside door panel. It is best to remove the entire oven door and lay it down on a table in order to do this. (Refer to owner's manual for instructions on removing the door from the oven, but it
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basically lifts out easily when is is in the broil-open position). Remove the front panel of the oven door by unscrewing the two machine screws (these may be torx head screws on your appliance) on the top inside corners of the door that hold the door handle. (screw spacers on the inside likely will fall out when you remove the machine screws - don't be alarmed) Then remove the three screws at the bottom of door trim. The front panel can then be lifted away from the back panel. This will allow access to the screws that hold the bottom trim to the side trim. Remove these and the bottom trim will slide off. Replace trim pieces and reassemble.
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one leg of the terminal block was loose and overheated under load.the terminal block melted and could have caused a fire.
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brendan from lebanon, NH
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections per
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iodically as to avoid another situation like this .
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Spilled 1/2 gallon Hot wax on stove
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Roman from West Chester, PA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Took door apart to clean inside of glass door. scraped most of the wax from the stove 99%. Could not get the last 1%. Cleaned all parts. Put door back together again, put the door seal on after I got the right one. Had to reorder a new seal(one that was actually made for that model) messed up the first one and whalla! Took about 3 weeks
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to clean off the wax from stove and the surrounding area. Stove is good as new. Thanks for the quick service. Would definitely recommend and use you guys again. Thank You.
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Rust on Bottom of Oven Door
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Nat from Irvine, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver
Self-clean the oven or use Easy-Off. Lay some towels or other padded ragging on the kitchen table. Open the oven door and lock the hinges. Pull the door out of the oven and lay it on the table with the oven handle hanging off the edge of the table. The inside of the oven door will be face up on the table. Use the 1/4 Nut Driver to rem
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ove three sheet metal screws from the bottom of the door. Use the T10 to remove two long screws from the top inside of the door. lift the door guts and set aside along with the 5 screws and two spacers you found under the top of the door. Use the nut driver to remove 4 screws holding the Door Bottom Channel Trim. The door handle and side channels will fall off (catch and set aside). you are left with one piece of glass with the old bottom channel trim. Gently tap the lip of the channel with a screwdriver in a towel to slip it off the glass. Gentle patience is a virtue here or the glass will break. Clean the glass with CeramaBryte or equal to get the burnt oven goop off. (While you're at it, do the same to the bottom of the door guts above.) Slip the new bottom channel on the glass as far as it will go (not very far in my case) and replace the door handle and side channels. You will see that the holes line up pretty well without having to jam the bottom channel onto the glass. Screw (4) the side channels to the bottom channel. Replace the Door Guts, being careful to line up the two spacers at the top of the door. Three screws in the bottom of the door, then the two Torx screws back in the top of the door. Put each screw in just finger tight and after they are all started, screw them home. Slip the reassembled door back in the oven frame, flip the locks up and Voila! Now that it's over, let me just say that if a camel is a horse designed by a committee, this thing must have been thought up by the US Congress!
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dead mice in insulation, chewed wire on latch switch
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Don from Flagstaff, AZ
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
replaced insulation
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Oven door trim rusted (bottom of door)
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thomas j from canal winchester, OH
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
This repair is really easy unless the trim piece has rusted so badly that it's attached itself to the front door glass. It took a long time and some WD-40 to pry the trim off w/o breaking the glass. REPAIR: Remove the door and lay it on a flat surface. Unscrew the 3 bottom screws w/ small pliers, then unscrew the top two inside door sc
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rews w/ a small metric allen wrench. Remove the door trim to get to the last four side trim screws. Once the old trim is out just clean up any residue/rust remaining on the glass, install the new trim and reverse the steps to put the door back together. If the old trim comes off easily it should only take @ 20-30 minutes.
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The oven temperature could not be controlled
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Keith from Annapolis, MD
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later.
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Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!
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