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PB915TT2CC General Electric Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Flashing F2 and erratic temperature readings.
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Kenneth from Salem, OR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.
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Oven Probe broke
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Kathleen from Munt Laurel, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Ordered new probe
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oven not warming, f2 indicating overheat
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David from Lisle, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a cham
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p. Took 5 minutes.
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missing meat thermistor
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John R from Asheville, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
plug in thermistor when needed
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Old Element Cotrols were sparking due some type of Electrical Short
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Steven from Boerne, TX
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplugged the stove, removed the back control cover, removed the Element Control Knob on front, removed the two screws holding the control in place, pull one wire of old control and connected to the new control - one at a time to ensure proper placement, re-attached the screws, control knob, back cover, plugged in stove, and repairs were
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completed in less then 15 minutes for both controls.
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Other Parts Used:
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Dual burner on range stopped working.
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Robert from Estero, FL
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Changed out the burner with a new replacement and it still didn't work. The socket on the old burner had a burn mark on it. The infinite switch operated sloppy not crisp like the other burners.Ordered a replacement online. Moved the range away from wall and cabinet and shut off electric at panel box. Removed upper back panel. removed swit
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ch knob and 2 screws holding switch. Compared electrical connections of both switches and saw that they were different. Read instructions which were included with new switch and found diagram for connecting old lead to new lead correctly. After all leads were connected, remounted new switch powered up and tested OK.
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Burner not operational.
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Gerald from Philadelphia, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Disconnected power supply. Removed damaged element by releasing retainer clips and unplugging wire contacts. Replaced with new element.
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Dual Burner was not turning off or turning on by itself
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Michael from North Miami Beach, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Pulled the top back panel off, pulled off burner control knob, removed 2 screws which released switch, removed 5 wires from switch and connected them to new switch (pulled off faily easily). Reconnected the 2 screws to range and pushed knob back on. Replaced panel and reconnect the electric. Now works as it should.
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rust on outside bottom of door.
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Robert from Brighton, MI
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
It is first necessary to remove the door from the range according to the manufacturer's instructions. Once removed, lay it down on a flat, protected surface with the outside facing down. Remove the two upper phillips screws and the hex nuts on the bottom channel. Next, separate the inside panel from the outside panel. You will then see
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the remaining hex nuts that have to be removed in order to replace either the bottom trim channel or the side pieces.
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one leg of the terminal block was loose and overheated under load.the terminal block melted and could have caused a fire.
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brendan from lebanon, NH
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections per
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iodically as to avoid another situation like this .
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Convection fan came loose from shaft
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Thomas from Albuquerque, NM
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the rep
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lacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."
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f-2 or f-3
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daniel from gap, PA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in
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F2 reading
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lynn from sunnyside, NY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.
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Oven slow to heat up
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Joe from Harkers Is., NC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had
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the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.
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The oven temperature could not be controlled
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Keith from Annapolis, MD
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later.
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Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!
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