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PB911SJ2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the PB911SJ2SS
16 - 30 of 103

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Oven door gasket was fraying and started to fall apart.
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Zachary from ARLINGTON, TX
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
1.) I removed the old oven door gasket by taking out the ends of the gasket out of the bottom of the oven door first.
2.) Pry up on each one of the retainer clips, they easily pop out of their slots.
3.) Work your way around the oven door gasket.
4.) If any remain stuck you can just wiggle the clip around and it should po p out of each hole. If need be you could use pliers, but I did not need to.
5.) Take your new gasket, it should already have new clips, so you can throw away the old ones.
6.) Work your way around the oven door making sure the clips are nicely seated.
7.) Finish off by inserting the ends back into the 2 holes on each side of the bottom of the oven door, I just used a small spoon to make sure the tops were nicely placed in.
8.) If your gasket needs to compress, you can close the oven door and lock it that should hold it in place and compress it.
9.) All done!
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Heat sensor malfunction
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Diane from BUTLER, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on, thats it...
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Element out LF
9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from HAGERSTOWN, MD
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplug stove.2 screws out ,lift top ,disconnect bad element, connect new element, put top down .2 screws in .plug stove back in...EASY PEASY
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Storage Drawer rear support broken
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tiffany from Denver, CO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Tried GE onoine parts department first and ordered the wrong part, then tried the customer hotline and they referred me to the right part but didn't explain that the design had been modified (the drawings had not been updated). I found an explanation on Part Select AND the parts were cheaper. Part Select sent the part, the necessary scr ew, and an appropriate instruction manual. Each support took less than a minute to screw in with a socket wrench.
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The stove top had a 12” double burner that only outside burner was working
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from SEYMOUR, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Ordered the part, turned off the circuit breaker, test to see that power is off, take a 5/16” nut driver, and remove the 2 screws under the front of the stove top, then lift the top up and hold it up with an old 2x4 about 24” long. All the connections are plug and play, so I took some needle nose pliers, to pull all 5 wires off of the bur ner. Then all that’s left to do is remove 3 spring clips. That was easily done by inserting a flat screwdriver into the back of each clip and pry them out. It ended up being a very easy fix. There is Utube videos to show you how to do it.
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Oven is off 10 degrees
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ike from LOGANVILLE, GA
  • Very Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I changed out the sensor and still same problem. Change out Thermosat and still same problem.
I call the help number and emailed the help but I got nothing but have to many calls because of the virus situation.
Still need help.
I’m an electrician and I don’t want to call a service technician and pay that big bill.
Can anyone there help me out, if so please call.
Ike Stanton
678-525-6644
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The oven did not get up to or hold the correct temperature
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from ARROYO GRANDE, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the c onnector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.
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Oven temperature would not go above 240 degrees
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Glenn from Grapevine, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven tem perature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.
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F2 error; over heating, unknown reason
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tim from LEAVENWORTH, WA
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I just followed the instructions on the link provided with the part
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Inside burner did not heat
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roberto L from LAUREL, MD
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Disconnect old burner and reconnect new one
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Interior burner of right front dual burner was out
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • MARK from PHOENIXVILLE, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Initially replaced the switch on the range--a simple job--pull the wires one by one and place them on the new switch. This did not resolve the problem, which meant that it was the burner, not the switch. I left the new switch in place and ordered a new burner. This, too, was simple, but involved creating a detailed drawing of the switch c onnectors rather than photos, which, because of the crossing of similarly colored wires, might have been confusing. The only hitch was that the burner is attached to the top by indented clips that fit into pegs at numbered locations on the burner. The clips were very difficult to open and situate, but once done (and this step was the only one where a second person was required) the top was closed and screwed back in place (two screws) and it worked perfectly.
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Wife broke the interior window by splashing water on it while heated to 450.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from GRETNA, NE
  • Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Well I did it all wrong from the get go. I did finally do a search on how to replace it and then it was quite easy. Learn from me, watch video and save yourself tons of hassle.
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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from DOVER, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
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When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from Bolton, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
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Oven in accurate temp too low.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from LIBERTY HILL, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.
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All Instructions for the PB911SJ2SS
16 - 30 of 103