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PB910TP1CC General Electric Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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rusted door bottom channel trim
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James from Boynton Beach, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
very easy, door comes off without any tools. youtube has instruction for that. seperate the innerdoor pannel to access the screws for the trim.6 screws holding the trim. the hardest part was cleaning the rust off.
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rust on outside bottom of door.
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Robert from Brighton, MI
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
It is first necessary to remove the door from the range according to the manufacturer's instructions. Once removed, lay it down on a flat, protected surface with the outside facing down. Remove the two upper phillips screws and the hex nuts on the bottom channel. Next, separate the inside panel from the outside panel. You will then see
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the remaining hex nuts that have to be removed in order to replace either the bottom trim channel or the side pieces.
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Oven slow to heat up
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Joe from Harkers Is., NC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had
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the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.
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The oven temperature could not be controlled
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Keith from Annapolis, MD
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later.
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Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!
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one leg of the terminal block was loose and overheated under load.the terminal block melted and could have caused a fire.
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brendan from lebanon, NH
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections per
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iodically as to avoid another situation like this .
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Left front burner would only heat on high setting.
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Morris from Ardmore, TN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Identified part and part # using schematic found on GE website, contacted PartSelect and confirmed part number, ordered and paid for part. Two days later I recieved part. Unplugged stove, removed two screws on bottom side of front panel and two on top back of same panel, pulled panel forward, pulled the control knob off, removed two smal
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l screws that hold the control switch in place, situated new control switch next to bad switch and removed one wire at the time from the bad switch and connected to the same terminal on the new switch. Put everything back together and Bingo, works like a new one. Thanks PartSelect for the friendly, personal phone service, the fast shipment and competitive pricing on my part.
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f-2 or f-3
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daniel from gap, PA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in
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Convection fan came loose from shaft
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Thomas from Albuquerque, NM
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the rep
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lacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."
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F2 reading
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lynn from sunnyside, NY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.
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Spilled 1/2 gallon Hot wax on stove
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Roman from West Chester, PA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Took door apart to clean inside of glass door. scraped most of the wax from the stove 99%. Could not get the last 1%. Cleaned all parts. Put door back together again, put the door seal on after I got the right one. Had to reorder a new seal(one that was actually made for that model) messed up the first one and whalla! Took about 3 weeks
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to clean off the wax from stove and the surrounding area. Stove is good as new. Thanks for the quick service. Would definitely recommend and use you guys again. Thank You.
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dead mice in insulation, chewed wire on latch switch
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Don from Flagstaff, AZ
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
replaced insulation
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