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P2S975CEM2CC General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the P2S975CEM2CC
106 - 120 of 129

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Our bottom drawer support broke and the bottom drawer was canted
  • Robert from Woodinville, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Simply removed drawer and lined up the newsupports. Made sure the guide pin was lined up and installed with single screw
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the grate foots came off
  • Sandra from Watertown, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
put it in but it keeps falling out. they're made narrower than my oven grate.
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Broiler Element Repair
  • Robert from SANTA MARIA, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I was attempting to replace the broiler element on the oven, but I discovered that the wiring may be the actual problem. I suggest before you order parts for a broiler repair, that you test the wires to ensure that you have continuity. I will have to trace the wires back to the source (the other element works fine) and see if I can find t he problem with the current. I will keep the broiler element I ordered until I can confirm that the old element works.
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Convection fan came loose from shaft
  • Thomas from Albuquerque, NM
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the rep lacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."
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Broiler heating element was not working
  • Jim from Hyrum, UT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Turned off the circuit breaker. Removed 5 screws. Unplugged the heating element and then plugged in the new one and replaced the 5 screws. Very simple.
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Missing grate foot.
  • Barbara J from Sweetwater, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Ordered by phone parts & very pleased with all of transaction.
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Broiler Element burnt out
  • Cherri from Katy, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
The actual repair was relatively easy but access to the area in the oven made it a little difficult. Just unscrew 5 screws with a nut driver, unplug the old element, plug in the new element and reinstall the 5 screws. The only thing that made this repair difficult was being able to reach the connectors where you plug in the new element. They are loose wire connectors that don't reach very far out of the element receptacle. It was difficult to hold the end of the connector and plug in the new element because the oven door is in your way. Maybe it is easier if you take the oven door off first?
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Broil element on top oven was not working
  • andrew from pittstown, NJ
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Shut the power off at the electric box.Disconnected coil from roof clips.Pulled wire connection from back wall. Disconnected wire clips, connected new unit.Clipped to roof and turned on" Working fine".
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Large burner wasn't lighting very quickly
  • Jesse from Nashville, TN
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Removed grill grates, gas distributors, etc. (just lift off). Used star screwdriver to remove screws (3 per burner for SML, 2 for power burner). Lift off stainless cover, which also lifts off the white sparkers I was replacing. Pull them off the wires (didn't need pliers, others said they did). Replace (make sure it is all the way on) and reverse your steps. White sparkers electrodes seemed loose when I put them back on, but tightened up when I fully secured the top back on. Make sure the wires aren't pinched underneath when you put the top back on. Recommended: If you've got one that isn't working, go ahead and replace all 3 (power burner is different) because the part is so cheap you may as well just do it now.
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Convection motor making loud clunking noise
  • Lynette from Rapid City, SD
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Turned off power to range, slid range out from counter, removed convection fan cover, removed convection fan blade, removed back of range panel over convection motor, removed motor, put in new motor, put range panel back on, put new fan blade on front of motor, replaced fan cover, turned power on. No more clunking noise from motor.
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one leg of the terminal block was loose and overheated under load.the terminal block melted and could have caused a fire.
  • brendan from lebanon, NH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections per iodically as to avoid another situation like this .
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rear drawer supports broke
  • TERRY from RICHMOND, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Directtions were by diagram only, no written instructions. Drawing was small and difficult to follow but the repair itself was easy.
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oven temp. was not what setting called for
  • John from Acme, WA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
turned oven off, pulled oven out from wall, removed back of oven, unscrewed sensor from oven replaced with new sensor, put back on, turned power to oven on, tried oven at 425, my temp. gage and the oven temp matched. a very easy fix.
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All Instructions for the P2S975CEM2CC
106 - 120 of 129