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NVLR333EE2WW Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the NVLR333EE2WW
16 - 30 of 786

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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dryer wasn't getting hot
62 of 89 people found this instruction helpful.
  • edward from Sunnyvale, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
1. removed two screws to take off top.
2. removed two screws to take off front.
3. Took belt off pulley and removed drum.
4. inspected old heating element at back of dryer - saw broken wire
5. replaced heating element (round w/ heating coil)
6. Re-assembled dryer

Helpful hints:
1. mark down or take pictures of all wires before removal - easy to mix them up
2. when you re-attach drum-belt, it should be taught. Comes straight down wall around metal pulley and then forms an "S" as it wraps around plastic pulley on way up. To re-attach, stick both arms into dryer - one to pull plastic-pulley and other to attach belt.
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dryer cylinder wouldn't turn
57 of 83 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Christopher from Miami, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Pryed off the top with a flat head screwdriver and removed the 2 screws holding the front panel to the sides. Then lifted the front panel off of the bottom brackets. Belt fit perfectly and followed the provided instructions to loop it around the motor and pulley. PartSelect got the part to me within a couple of days and the repair was a snap.
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Dryer Was Making A Lot Of Noise While Running
47 of 54 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tracy from Winston Salem, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I ordered parts based off other peoples findings. I took the top and front off the dryer. I found the drum bearing(really only a plastic bracket. The slide were completely worn and the drum was wearing into the plastic drum bearing. I popped the old drum bearing out and put the new on in. There are actually 2 sets of slides (4 t otal). I only bought 2. I reused two of the existing slides. I put the unit back together and it was a lot quieter. I need to order more of the slides. They are only a couple dollars a piece and take most of the beating. I should've but didn't get the pasking or gasket. It was broken. I think it'll be fine though.
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The dryer was making noise.
49 of 62 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joe from Eureka, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the two screws that hold the front panel to the top panel. I removed two more screws that hold the front panel to the side panels. I separated the front panel from the side panels and removed the drum.

I could see on the front panel the drum slides were badly worn. One was gone.

The new parts installed ea sily using no tools at all. Everything snaps in place. The new foam gaskets press and stick to seal the duct work. The felt strip pressed into place.

I replace all the panels in reverse order and plug it in. It operates fine, but the motor is making the noise. I will look into replacing the motor next.
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noise from the drum in the dryer
52 of 81 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Blue Springs, MO
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
The weight of the front section of the drum in the dryer rides on 4 slim pieces of plastic. remove the screws that hold down the top of the dryer are in the front door at the top at each corner. remove the top, then remove 2 screws that hold down the front of the control panel to the cabinet at the base. remove the 2 screws at the of the front corners of the cabinet to separate the front door section from the rest of the dryer.Watch out for the wires the connect the door to the rest of the dryer. if you replace the bearing at the back of the dryer you need to take two screws out at the base of the cabinet one from each corner to let the sides of the cabinet to spread out and let the drum pass though the front of the dryer cabinet. the belt has to come off the motor by lifting it up an sticking your hand in under the drum and working it off the end of the motor. replaced the parts ad the dryer works like new.
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The Dryer would not start
60 of 107 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Curtice, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Doing some simple troubleshooting with the volt-ohm meter I determined that the door switch was failed.

The replacement door switch restored the motor circuit keeping my dryer in action.
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Squeaking Dryer - Rear Drum bearing gone bad
32 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jason from Cary, NC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First, I loosened the the top control panel and then loosened the top flat roof panel which allowed me access to the inside of the dryer. Then, I removed the front panel which allowed access to the drum. I was amazed at the amount of lint that was inside the dryer itself. Most of my time was spent in the disassembly and cleaning of the in ternal cavity around the drum. I reached below the drum and removed the belt from the pulley wheels and then unscrewed the drum (from the inside) from the back of the dryer and bearing kit. I removed the diffuser and cleaned it thoroughly. Then I replaced the entire drum bearing kit - the old one was almost completely dissentigrated. I probably should have applied some kind of non-flammable lubricant to the new bearing kit - the instructions did not include this step but after about 3 loads a slight squeak (different). I put everything back together - applying the new drum kit will require 2 sets of hands (my 9-year old daughter did great at this). I re-assembled the dryer and it works great, again except for the slight squeak that's still there. I may disassemble it again and apply some lubricant but I do not know what kind to get; I need to check that out.
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Deflector was covered in burnt something.
39 of 57 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from San Antonio, FL
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Wrench set
Deflector has 3 bolts attaching it. They require a star wrench. Had to purchase same to do the repair. Removed the bolts(they are sheet metal type screws(bolts). Installed the deflector and started dryer. Loud rubbing sound noted. Shut off and checked the drum and noted it was not running concentrically. Removed deflector and the found th e 3 screws actually retained the drum to drive. Had to make alignment pins to allow proper alignment of the drive, drum, and deflector. Once the pins were used during installation of the deflector everything worked correctly. Turned on dryer and it operated normally.
Had I had the proper tools the repair would probably have taken 30 minutes or less.
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Loud squeaking. Speaking in demon tongues.
33 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
  • nathan from los angeles, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pulled the front of the dyer off, snapped old bearing off, snapped new drum bearing in, affixed 2 new slides and 2 new other widgets (5 pieces total). Vacuumed/cleaned out various bits and pieces before i closed her up.

No squeaking.

Called a priest, but he died. Now i just do whatever the demon says, but i do it w ith quietly dried clothes.
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Dryer took a long time to dry clothes
40 of 62 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Darrell from Springdale, AR
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
First I removed the removed the screws that held the top on the dryer. Next I removed the screws that held the controls on from the back. I then removed screws that held the left side in place and removed the drum by first removing the drive belt.
The heating element unit was removed by removing four screws and the wiring harnes. I r eversed the procedure to install the heating unit and put the machine back together.
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only orderd two sliders needed four
35 of 49 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Leesburg, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
easy no problem
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dryer would run until you shut it off , timer did not advance , clothes would air dry there was no heat
40 of 65 people found this instruction helpful.
  • david from gaffney, SC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
unplugged dryer ,pulled dryer front and top off and removed drum , found element wire broken . loosened element to be able to remove wire pods . reverserd removal ( belt is a little tricky ) reattached power cord to outlet worked like a charm.
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Heat deflector was covered in melted plastic
35 of 51 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Alexandria, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Someone I'm related to by marriage accidentally dried a plastic-coated tablecloth on high heat, and our heat deflector was hosed. I was very happy to find this part here for such a reasonable price; Sears wanted about $65 for it. Installation required a Torx bit, and removing the old one was easy, but the dryer's design made it difficult to reinstall the heat deflector while keeping the dryer running concentrically. I ended up cutting the heads off three screws, threading those into the plate behind the drum, sliding the new heat deflector on over those, and then one by one replacing them with the original Torx head screws. Once I figured it out it didn't take long but it took me a while to figure it out. That's probably more a reflection on me than the dryer!
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The dryer began squeeking very loudly progressively getting worse
36 of 55 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Sioux City, IA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
A very easy fix. Opening the front door to the dryer locate two chrome phillips head screws in the upper part of the door opening which hold on the top of the dryer. (I think in the older dryers the top simply was held on with keepers and you could simply pry it off. Not the case here)Lifting up on the front of the top it comes away fro m the back control panel. I would recommed that the control panel be removed as it is necessary to remove it to put the dryer top back on due to three clips that wont allow you to put the top back down with the control panel in place. It takes a star wrence to remove it. Once the top is off ther are two phillips screws holding the front of the dryer on (one on each side) remove them and the whole fron lifts up and off. The drum rides on a plastic schroud attached to the dryer inside front. Mine was so worn it required the purchase of the entire assembly which comes in two parts. The upper part had worn away so badly the drum was riding on the metal causing the noise. I ordered both the upper and lower assembly and both just simply snap off and the new ones snap right back on. No tools. I was a bit dissapointed as I assumed that the felt which is located in the lower assembly would come with the new part however it did not nor did some plastic tabs which the drum rides on in the upper assembly comes with the replacement part. It takes four of those tabs so order appropriately. Went back together easily and the whole job was done in about 40 minutes.
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dryer would not heat
40 of 67 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mike from Simpsonville, SC
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The heating element was broken.
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All Instructions for the NVLR333EE2WW
16 - 30 of 786