MWX1 Washer - Instructions
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replace broken drive belt
284 of 319 people
found this instruction helpful.
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rodney from fairfield bay, AR
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins,remove 2 phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel,slightly lift upward on panel to release.remove old broken belt,push new belt beneath large tub pulley,put belt on small motor pulley,push back belt tension /idler arm,start belt on large tub pulley,turn tub p
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ulley by hand to run belt on,release tension on idler arm.replace front panel and lower top.WALAAH!!!! you are done.
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would't spin all water out or rinse out clothes
172 of 210 people
found this instruction helpful.
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kenneth from willard, OH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
uplugged washer took front off washer 2 screws pryed up top pump was mounted with 2 screws and 2 wires took off found change in pump and the fins to pump worn off ordered part off line the wait for part was longer than the amount of time to fix problem and cost of part saved me about $25-35 if I was to buy local worth wait save money and
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fix problem washes like new spins and drains all water from tub.
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Noisy spin cycle
139 of 165 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Patrick from Humble, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
1) Unplugged washer and disconnected the hot and cold hoses.
2) removed the 2 phillips screws at the bottom of the front panel then removed front panel, you need enough clearance by the floor, this is tricky because you have to lean washer back and push down on the front panel.
3) removed the agitator from the washer
4) lif ... Read more ted top of washer and leaned back against the wall and removed the splash tub cover one clip at a time with a flat screw driver.
5) removed the trunion, this is difficult and will take some time due to the corrosion from many years of use use a hammer (3Lb short handle) and tap one side then the other. You will need to rock it back and forth awhile.
6) lift the basket out of splash tub
7) I removed the hose for water level and removed the 3 bolts that hold the splash tub to the three base mounts (support arms).
8) remove the splash tub
9)change the plastic washer that is between the splash tub and the transmission in the bottom of the splash tub
10) change the bearing(metal sleeve) on the bottom of splash tub and lightly grease w/ a thin film of teflon grease
11) install splash tub and install the 3 bolts along w/ the water level tube
12) install the larger seal (w/ spring in it) and push into the splash tub firmly
13) use some tub and faucet silicone grease on the smaller seal because you don't want to damage this main seal, install the main seal (sits on top of the larger one that's in the tub already) be careful when getting to flat part of the shaft when installing ( spin around the shaft as you pass this point) it will keep the seal from coming out.
14) install trunion (sits down on top of the seal) you will feel the tension of the spring when bolting the trunion back into place.
15) install basket and bolt it to the trunion (I installed a new filter on the bottom of the basket and required some special glue, ask for "3M" GMGA600 adhesive.
16) installed splash tub cover, agitator and front cover.
Washer works great and is quieter than it was new.
2) removed the 2 phillips screws at the bottom of the front panel then removed front panel, you need enough clearance by the floor, this is tricky because you have to lean washer back and push down on the front panel.
3) removed the agitator from the washer
4) lif ... Read more ted top of washer and leaned back against the wall and removed the splash tub cover one clip at a time with a flat screw driver.
5) removed the trunion, this is difficult and will take some time due to the corrosion from many years of use use a hammer (3Lb short handle) and tap one side then the other. You will need to rock it back and forth awhile.
6) lift the basket out of splash tub
7) I removed the hose for water level and removed the 3 bolts that hold the splash tub to the three base mounts (support arms).
8) remove the splash tub
9)change the plastic washer that is between the splash tub and the transmission in the bottom of the splash tub
10) change the bearing(metal sleeve) on the bottom of splash tub and lightly grease w/ a thin film of teflon grease
11) install splash tub and install the 3 bolts along w/ the water level tube
12) install the larger seal (w/ spring in it) and push into the splash tub firmly
13) use some tub and faucet silicone grease on the smaller seal because you don't want to damage this main seal, install the main seal (sits on top of the larger one that's in the tub already) be careful when getting to flat part of the shaft when installing ( spin around the shaft as you pass this point) it will keep the seal from coming out.
14) install trunion (sits down on top of the seal) you will feel the tension of the spring when bolting the trunion back into place.
15) install basket and bolt it to the trunion (I installed a new filter on the bottom of the basket and required some special glue, ask for "3M" GMGA600 adhesive.
16) installed splash tub cover, agitator and front cover.
Washer works great and is quieter than it was new.
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After a full cycle the washer would not drain the water
86 of 96 people
found this instruction helpful.
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sara from North Miami, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
After reading the possiblilities of problem, I determined that the drain pump was not working; therefore I ordered a new one. When I opened the washer to replace the part, I found out that the pump was working but the filter was stuffed with pieces of rubber that came out from a rug I washed. Once all the stuff was removed, the washer wor
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ked just fine. PartSelect was very gracious to accept the returned with not questions asked!! Thanks partSelect.
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Washer Continued To Fill To Point Of Overflow
86 of 97 people
found this instruction helpful.
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alvaro from east hampton, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
First I removed the top panel held by four screws at rear of panel, pulling the panel foward and up. Then disconnected the power and water connections. Then I removed the two screws holding the flow valve to the washer rear panel,pulled the valve foward ,removed the two electric connectors, pinched the water clamp with pliers and remo
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ved the water connection to the valve. Then replaced with the new valve followed the above steps in reverse order, finishing up by re placing the water connections and power. Then checked fo proper replacenent and leaks before replacing top panel.
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Pump Motor Failed
68 of 70 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from Walpole, MA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
First, remove the 2 screws that hold the lower front cover in place, remove the cover and disconnect the plug and the ground wires from the pump. Next attach the washing machine drain hose to a wet vac, since even if the machine is empty, there will still be water in the outer tub and the pump. Suck the whole thing dry, remove the 2 bol
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ts that hold the cover onto the pump, use a pliers to remove the 2 hose clamps, remove the hoses (no mess because of the vacuum). Remove the 2 screws that hold the pump to the base of the washer and remove the pump. Save the mounting bracket from the bottom of the pump. Orient the outlet on the new pump to match your old one if needed, instructions to do this are included with the new pump. Install the mounting bracket onto the new pump. Mount the pump to the washing machine base, reconnect the hoses, the cover and the wiring. Put the drain hose back into your drain. Run the machine, check for function and leaks. If all is well, replace the lower cover. Don't forget to tell your wife that the job was a whole lot harder than it looked.
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Lid Lock Assembly broke
76 of 95 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jenessa from Tacoma, WA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
The Lid Lock Assembly came super fast! The install would have been flawless, but the "pre-drilled" holes on the new Lid Lock Assembly were way to small. We found that out after we had reconnected the wires and gotten it into place. Aside from that small set back, the install went great! This repair is definitey not one that you would
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need to pay a repair person to do!
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pump very noisy, failing.
52 of 56 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Mason, MI
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Disconnect water and electricity.
Shop-vac out the water in the internal drain hose.
Remove back cover, tip washer on side to gain access.
Un-clamp rubber drain hose,unscrew pump and remove.
Cleanout filter cup (yuk!) find coins and hairpins.
Attach drain hose to new pump and re-install with hose clamps from hardw ... Read more are store because spring clamps were impossible (arthritis in fingers).
Reconnect water and electricity.
Test for leaks and tighten clamps if necessary.
Shop-vac out the water in the internal drain hose.
Remove back cover, tip washer on side to gain access.
Un-clamp rubber drain hose,unscrew pump and remove.
Cleanout filter cup (yuk!) find coins and hairpins.
Attach drain hose to new pump and re-install with hose clamps from hardw ... Read more are store because spring clamps were impossible (arthritis in fingers).
Reconnect water and electricity.
Test for leaks and tighten clamps if necessary.
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Washer wouldn't spin.
55 of 70 people
found this instruction helpful.
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garland from Morganton, NC
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
The problem with my very old washer was that the tension spring had broken long ago and I had jerry-rigged it in place with a cable tie. It would work, but you had to give the drum a spin by hand when it hit the spin the cycle. This probelm further caused the premature wearing of the drive belt, due to slippage. I ordered both a new sp
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ring and a new belt. Upon their arrival, I removed the two screws holding the front panel and lowered it off and out of the way. The old, worn belt was very easy to remove, as there was very little tension on it. Next I attempted to remove the washer that holds the idle arm on. It is in a very awkward spot, and it appears the the washing machine is sort of built around it. I bent it gradually with locking pliers until I could force it off with the blade of a flat screwdriver. Then the idler arm was easy to lower of its axle by twisting the drum a bit and pulling it to one side. I put the new spring into the idler arm, making sure the plastic bushing was in place and replaced the arm. I then repositioned to belt and replaced the front panel. It works great now.
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Agitator Drive Block wore out
69 of 115 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Somerville, MA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Removed fastening screw and Agitator. Removed and replaced Agitator Drive Block. Replaced and fastened Agitator. Done in 5 min.
Ordered part around noon. Shipping was 3-5 days. Part arrived in LESS than 24 hours.
Very happy camper here!
Ordered part around noon. Shipping was 3-5 days. Part arrived in LESS than 24 hours.
Very happy camper here!
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Worn belt, faulty snubber. Washing machine was 'walking' during spin cycle.
43 of 52 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steven from Jacksonville, IL
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Unplugged machine.
Turned off water supply.
Removed front panel.
Pushed in on belt tensioner, removed old belt, replaced with new belt.
Used pry bar to lift the base assembly high enough off the snubber to remove it. Partially propped it with 2x4 wood scraps.
Used bent clothes hangar to remove ol ... Read more d snubber ring, to protect my hands.
Replaced snubber, arrow pointing up.
Carefully lowered base assembly.
Replaced front panel.
Turned water back on, plugged back in, washing machine no longer 'walks'.
Remember to check the washer against a level if you moved the machine.
Turned off water supply.
Removed front panel.
Pushed in on belt tensioner, removed old belt, replaced with new belt.
Used pry bar to lift the base assembly high enough off the snubber to remove it. Partially propped it with 2x4 wood scraps.
Used bent clothes hangar to remove ol ... Read more d snubber ring, to protect my hands.
Replaced snubber, arrow pointing up.
Carefully lowered base assembly.
Replaced front panel.
Turned water back on, plugged back in, washing machine no longer 'walks'.
Remember to check the washer against a level if you moved the machine.
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washer leaking
41 of 48 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Michael from Woodridge, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
removed front body panel (2 screws at bottom and pulled down panel), then used pliers to squeeze pinch clamps and pull back the two hoses off the pump. then removed the two pump clips that secure the pump in place and used screw driver to gently pry the old pump off the motor shaft, under that was the rubber pump slinger which was pulled
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off the motor shaft. The next step was to sand the rust off the motor shaft and apply some vasoline to lubricate the shaft and install the new pump slinger and pump on the motor shaft,put the pump clips back on and push the hoses on the new pump and slide the pinch clamps back into place, run test to check for leaks then re-install the front body panel.
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washing machine will not drain or spin
41 of 49 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Heath Harris from Arnold, MO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
removed upper cover, removed front cover, tested switch with digital VOM, removed and replaced!
2 screws, 4 wires! saved over $100 when compared to a bill from a repair service!
fast shipping too! will recommend others!
2 screws, 4 wires! saved over $100 when compared to a bill from a repair service!
fast shipping too! will recommend others!
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Drain hose was leaking due to small hole in hose
31 of 34 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carl from Wilmington, DE
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
This is the third time I have ordered parts from this company .I can't say enough good things about them from their fast shipping( always arrives sooner than they state)To the quality of the parts and the shipping packages.A first class operation from start to finnish.First step was to disconect power supply.Second was to remove washer dr
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ain hose from house drain.Third remove two (2) phillips head screws from front cover of washer ,located at bottom right and left side of front panel near floor.Lift front panel up to unhook metal retainers on panel that connect it to washer side panels.Use pliers to remove spring clamp from hose. Remove hose from washer pump. Remove clamp from hose,remove plastic retainer holding hose to washer bottom.Feed hose out the back of the washer through washer drain hose hole in the back pannel of the washer.Remove plastic retainer.Insert the new hose through the hole in the back pannel install the hose clamp and install the hose back on the pump.Relocate clamp on hose, take front panel,lift into place,push down to lock retaining taps into side cover slots replace the two phillips head screws.
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The Agitator
36 of 52 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kyle from Maricopa, AZ
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
The top of the agitator broke off so the washing machine was no longer spinning the agitator. Took the nut off the top of the agitator and there was a steel sleeve inside that had to come out of the agitator and be put into the new agitator so it would sit correctly on the "tower" and spin. It took me awhile to get the sleeve out of the o
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ld agitator but once I did it slipped right into the new agitator and then the new agitator bolted right onto the "tower". It only cost me $40.00 for a new part so I'm sure I saved myself around 100 dollars or more by doing it myself.
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