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MWS445RFS1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the MWS445RFS1
121 - 135 of 186

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tub seal leak and belt tensioner pulley making noise
  • sheldon from Lacrosse, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Removal was relatively simple, and pretty self explanitory as per the instuctions on the website, except for having to actually take sandpaper to the agitator shaft to remove the rust build up from many years of use.After getting the rust off, made it easier to remove the seal housing. Removed and cleaned the seal area and replace with th e new seals. Everything went pretty well. Put in the new belt tensioner pulley and replace the covers. Ran the machine at medium load cycle. No leaks, no noise from the pulley. Runs like a new machine. The lady was really pleased with the results.
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would not drain
  • robertt from rio grande, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
followed on line instructons very easy
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Out of country repair needed
  • Jay from Venice, FL
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
This appliance is being used in a third world country with no parts access. I discovered Partselect and easily found the schematic with parts listed. Needed parts were easily identified ordered online and received within 4 days in the US and in time to take on my day later flight outbound. The process was seamless and expeditious. Than k you Partselect!
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No cold water
  • Cruz from Babylon, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
For the washer/Dryer combo, replacing water valve was easy, first you need to remove washer front panel and top lid, make sure that washer electrical is unplugged, turn off gas, turn off water valves.remove 1-screw holding water valve. reaching from top and using pliers remove retention clip holding hose. remove old water valve, there are two electrical connections for cold and hot water valves, make sure you mark them, remove them from old water valve. insert new water valve, connect hose and make sure that retaining clip is connected correctly.connect electrical wires. screw water valve into place from rear of washer. connect water hoses. before connecting panel and lid, turn on water valves and observe if there is any water leaks.
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tensioner torn up belt burnt up
  • patrick from northumberland, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
removed front cover pushed in tensioner by hand walked belt off pulleys tilted belt removed lock ring pulled tensioner off noticed right rear lower tub brace broke at spot weods drilled out spot welds nut and bolted rear brace put springs back on base and installed belt works like new and saved myself from replacing lower washer tub frame so 70.00 and she up and running again
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20 year old v belt finally gave up the ship
  • Barry from Mohrsville, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
This repair couldn't have been easier. I went to the website, looked up my part and ordered it - this all took longer than the repair! I followed the super easy video on the site walking me through the replacement step by step. I probably would have taken less time, but I made the mistake of propping the top of the washing machine up too high, which popped a suction hose that prevents the tub from overfilling, which unfortunately, I didn't realize. 10 minutes, I started to do a small test load. Luckily, our laundry is right off of the kitchen, so after 5 minutes of filling, I stopped eating dinner to ask my wife how long it took to fill. At that, we could hear the water running on to the laundry room floor. Another trip to the internet and sure enough, attaching that hose fixed her right up. Thanks Partselect! Couldn't have made my life easier - much to the chagrin of my wife who was searching feverishly through the paper for a replacement!
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Belt Had Smoked
  • Millard from Grand Prairie, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took front off and put the new belt on. Then put the front back on. At my Age 70 yrs did good and saved $124.00 Which I paid that 9 months ago.
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burning smell from wash, needed new drive V belt
  • Joseph from Trinidad, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
watched the video on website, printed instructions for feedback.
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I was only getting hot water
  • Elmo from Apache Junction, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I removed the back cover after disconnecting the electric and shutting off the water. I then proceeded to disconnect the water lines and then removed the water inlet valve by removing the two screws holding it in place. Then I used pliers to remove the hose leading to the washer. After that I did everything in reverse and was back in bus iness. The video was very helpful and it made me feel comfortable with the procedure. I now know a little more about washers. Thanks for the excellent information.
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hose leaking
  • Daniel from Daingerfield, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
lifed the lid .remove oud hose and replaced with new hose
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I had no problem
  • Albert J. from Homosassa, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I used a flat-head screw driver to lift the main lid up off the washer to get to the washer lid safety switch..Unplug the plug from the electrical outlet. Removed the 4 wires from the switch, and removed 2 screws to remove the old switch..Then install the new safety switch in reverse order.
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Washer leaks when spin drying
  • Cecil from Jacksonville, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Put the front up on a 4 X4 block. Removed the two screws at the bottom of the front panel. Slid the front panel down and off. With pliers squeezed the spring clamp and removed the hose, slid the hose out of the machine. Slid in the new hose into the hole in the back, put the spring clamp on the hose, slid the pump end of the hose onto the pump and using pliers put the spring clamp back on. Put the front panel back on and the screws, removed the block. Tested the washer.
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water did not stop flowing into drum
  • ernest from Ravenden, AR
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Watched the handy-dandy video, removed the defective part, waited for delivery, installed the new part and was back washing another load (minus the wet floor) in less than 10 minutes! Just one catch, I am a 56yo female with nominal hand strength, so technically, I had to recruit the help of a (stronger) person to tighten-up those self-ta pping screws. I didn't feel so weak when I noticed that he had some difficulty as well. LOL! Ladies, don't be shy asking for help-I even tried the power drill with no success. Excellent video! Aside from the self-tapping screws, my grand-daughter could have managed this repair!
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Noisy spin cycle
  • Michael from Austin, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Used flat head screw driver to pry up the top. Removed front cover. Pushed tension idler pulley back to release tension on the belt. Removed old belt. Put new belt on motor pulley and idler pulley. Started one edge on main pulley and slowly rotated main pulley until the belt popped in place. Tested on spin cycle. Replaced front cove r and top. Unfortunately, this didn't stop the noise...turned out a shipping screw was still in place. Removed the shipping screw and voila! no noise. It's always the little things that get ya.
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Drive block fitting problem
  • Barbara from Calexico, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
The drive block spline was loose in the Agitator, for the now block to fit tight enough to stay in place while reassembly of the Agitator, ( keep falling out) the old block had to be driven out. Had to design a wire tool to hold the block in place until the Agitator could be fitted over the shaft and seated tight on the shaft drive, then pulled the wire out. Wasn't the most easy task to do and sure took more than 5 min. to install.
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All Instructions for the MWS445RFS1
121 - 135 of 186