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MSX24DRAAD RCA Refrigerator - Instructions
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Cracked housing on the vaave
288 of 308 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
anthony from thornton, CO
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
1. Turn off water supply, and electrical ( unplug it) to fridge.
2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines ar ... Read more e still attached.
6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections.
- now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.
- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.
8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
9. Attach electrical lines.
- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.
10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.
11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
12. Unplug fridge
13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
15. Plug fridge back in.
16. Take a clean glass.
17. Fill with water from the front.
18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines ar ... Read more e still attached.
6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections.
- now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.
- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.
8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
9. Attach electrical lines.
- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.
10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.
11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
12. Unplug fridge
13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
15. Plug fridge back in.
16. Take a clean glass.
17. Fill with water from the front.
18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
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No power to the fan and compressor
222 of 302 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Christian from Kearneysville, WV
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I have a fridge in my garage. I have found that a glass of ice water or a cold drink outside is very important to me. When I discovered melting ice dripping onto the garage floor I was very upset. I spun the fridge and found that the compressor and fan weren't starting. I got out my multi-meter and discovered that power was not makin
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g it to these components. I did some research and found the wiring diagram online. There really isn't too much going on with a fridge and the most likely candidate seemed to be the run capacitor. I ordered the part, replaced it in a few minutes and the fridge began working again.
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Door would not automatically close.
180 of 194 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gary from North eastham, AL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Symptom: Door did not close automatically. Also had found small chunks of black plastic on the floor. Refrigerator door was slightly lower than the freezer door.
One false start because I did not realize both of the door-closing cams had disintegrated and I had only ordered the cam without the hinge.
Purchased part ... Read more 290199 Hinge Assembly. It came with matching door-closing cam. (Had not known so I also purchased the cam 297995 separately). Next time I will know to only purchase the Hinge Assembly.
Replacement procedure took about 20 minutes including removing and replacing door shelves and their contents. Two people involved.
1. Remove all door shelves with contents and other contents on door.
2. Remove the top Phillips head screw holding the decorative plastic on the top.
3. Remove the two top hinge screws on top of refrigerator using metric #8 socket wrench. Second person made sure door did not fall off.
4. Lift the door off the bottom hinge pin. Second person holds door on it’s side.
5. Take off the bottom refrigerator cover
6. Remove the bottom hinge assembly screws using metric #8 socket wrench.
7. Mount the replacement bottom hinge assembly and tighten the two screws.
8. On the door bottom, remove the outer screw and loosen the inner screw using metric #8 socket wrench.
9. Replace the door-closing cam (or what is left of it) with the cam in line with the door and cam bumps away from the door.
10. Place the door back on the hinge pin (one person holds while the other person maneuvers the door bottom).
11. Replace the top hinge and reinsert the screws on top of the refrigerator. Dress the door so that it does not press hard on the rubber door gaskets (or the door will fail to shut automatically). Tighten the screws.
12. Replace the decorative plastic over the top hinge.
13. Open the door and replace the bottom refrigerator cover.
14. Replace the door shelves and all contents.
15 Close the door.
One false start because I did not realize both of the door-closing cams had disintegrated and I had only ordered the cam without the hinge.
Purchased part ... Read more 290199 Hinge Assembly. It came with matching door-closing cam. (Had not known so I also purchased the cam 297995 separately). Next time I will know to only purchase the Hinge Assembly.
Replacement procedure took about 20 minutes including removing and replacing door shelves and their contents. Two people involved.
1. Remove all door shelves with contents and other contents on door.
2. Remove the top Phillips head screw holding the decorative plastic on the top.
3. Remove the two top hinge screws on top of refrigerator using metric #8 socket wrench. Second person made sure door did not fall off.
4. Lift the door off the bottom hinge pin. Second person holds door on it’s side.
5. Take off the bottom refrigerator cover
6. Remove the bottom hinge assembly screws using metric #8 socket wrench.
7. Mount the replacement bottom hinge assembly and tighten the two screws.
8. On the door bottom, remove the outer screw and loosen the inner screw using metric #8 socket wrench.
9. Replace the door-closing cam (or what is left of it) with the cam in line with the door and cam bumps away from the door.
10. Place the door back on the hinge pin (one person holds while the other person maneuvers the door bottom).
11. Replace the top hinge and reinsert the screws on top of the refrigerator. Dress the door so that it does not press hard on the rubber door gaskets (or the door will fail to shut automatically). Tighten the screws.
12. Replace the decorative plastic over the top hinge.
13. Open the door and replace the bottom refrigerator cover.
14. Replace the door shelves and all contents.
15 Close the door.
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Refrigerator temp was warm
126 of 146 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Adrian from Louisville, KY
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver
Per the trouble shooting guide on the home page of the website. I suspected the defrost timer was bad because ice had heavily accumulated on the back wall of the freezer compartment and the temperature inside the refrigerator was warm. First, I removed all the freezer racks. Then removed the (4) screws on the back wall in the freezer c
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ompartment. I then removed the ben from the ice maker to allow more room. Once I saw all the ice, I unplugged the refrigerator, and used a hair dryer to defrost ( it took about an hour to get it all). Once the ice was all gone, I then moved into the refrigerator compartment and removed the top shelve. This allowed me more room and access to the defrost timer which was behind the back panel. I used the trouble shooting guide to test the old timer prior to removing the new one from the package, (just in case I needed to send it back). Through this test I determined that the timer was bad, it wasn't the heating element or the t-stat. It was very easy to access, I removed the two knobs and lifted up the panel. I located the defrost timer and removed the screws as directed. I replaced the timer just as I had removed it, plugging in the electrical terminals per the removal process. I then reversed the order and put the panel and top shelve back on. Once all complete, I then moved back into the freezer compartment and replace the back panel and then the ice ben. I plugged it in and haven't had a problem since. This site has saved me a tremendous amount of money, a service contractor quoted us $300, to determine the problem. I ordered the part and it was sitting on our door stoop the next morning.
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Internal water lines brittle, cracked, leaking
119 of 139 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Marty from West Bloomfield, MI
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
First of all, the larger white plastic tubes in this thing are 5/16" OD, which no plumbing store seems to stock. At the lower left rear end there are 2 tubes, one for water and one for ice, that are doomed to fail being in proximity of a heat source - they essentially get cooked to the point of becoming brittle and cracking. The smaller
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tube and union can be easily found, but do yourself a favor if the larger one cracks and order the plastic tube and water tube union here, and just cut off the brittle part and amend the old tube using the union.
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Sticking Light Switch
122 of 178 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c
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atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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The oiginal Ice Bucket auger became rusty and discoloered the ice.
66 of 72 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Antioch, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I went on line to find the part. Luckily I found PartSelect.com. All I had to do was enter the model number into the search box and scroll through the list of parts.
I ordered the part over the weekend and recieved it on Tuesday!
All I had to do was remove 4 screws from the original Ice Bucket and attach the new one.
Perfec ... Read more t fit in under 15 minutes!
Awesome place to do business with! I hope I never have to do another repair, but if I do I will go to PartSelect first!
I ordered the part over the weekend and recieved it on Tuesday!
All I had to do was remove 4 screws from the original Ice Bucket and attach the new one.
Perfec ... Read more t fit in under 15 minutes!
Awesome place to do business with! I hope I never have to do another repair, but if I do I will go to PartSelect first!
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My wife said, "the refrigerator door won't close".
54 of 58 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gregory from Zephyrhills, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
Our refrigerator is a double door unit with ice and water in the left door. The right door was the one with the problem. It was 5:15 AM when the problem occured. I could see that the door was out of alighnment and had dropped down - preventing it from closing. I lifted the door and closed it. I wrote down the model number and found a
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detailed drawing of the appliance on the web site "partselect.com". When the hing earrived I compared it to the broken one. I removed all the food stored on the door, put several pieces of wood under the door to shim it to the same height as the adjacent door. I then removed two bolts from the refrigerator with a 1/4" socket set. I put the shim from the old hing aside for later. I removed two bolts from the door with the same socket -Note a metal tab had to be bent silghtly so the wrench could go on the head of the bolt- I removed the plastic cam and made note of its orientation and that of the shim above it on the door. I put the shim and new cam in place on the door and installed the 2 bolts. I inserted the pin of the new hing into the hole in the cam (I had just mounted) on the door. I put the shim (the one put aside earlyer) behind the hing and replaced the two bolts. I held the shim and hing up against the door as I tightened the two bolts. When I was satisfied that the bolts were tight I removed the wooden blocks that were holding the door up so the door was supported by the new bottom hing assembly. The door now opperates perfectly and the refrigerator was not taken out of service for the repair. Total time including cleanup was a little over 15 minutes.
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Water dispenser leaked - tubing broke
48 of 65 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from Poway, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Ordered parts from another vendor - got wrong parts (1/4 in parts instead of 5/16 in parts). With your parts, I just cut out the bad portion of the tubing, and replaced it using the 2 union connectors. Thanks.
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bad light socket
45 of 56 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
nancy from silsbee, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
unplugged refrigerator. removed light bulb from old socket. unsnapped old light socket and pulled it out just enough to diconnect the electrical plug that plugs into the socket . discarded the old socket and plugged in new socket. snapped in new socket into refrigerator. i watched how to do this simple procedure on you tube and decided to
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do it myself. easy easy easy
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Door would not close and seal properly
42 of 53 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Kevin from Enumclaw, WA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
I found a little piece of the door closing cam broke off. While inspecting the door I found the bottom section of the seal cracked.
Parts were received within 3 days. Door cam was simple to replace. Door seal was a little tricky but tips on packaging helped me prepare the seal by heating in hot water. Everything went togeth ... Read more er and my 17 yr old fridge works great again.
Parts were received within 3 days. Door cam was simple to replace. Door seal was a little tricky but tips on packaging helped me prepare the seal by heating in hot water. Everything went togeth ... Read more er and my 17 yr old fridge works great again.
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Ice maker dispensed crushed ice but not cubes
44 of 62 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Greenville, NC
- Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the ice bin and maker, then removed cover from the rear that covered the solenoid that controls the dispensing mechanism. Replace solenoid. The tricky part here is that there is a styrofoam cover around the solenoid pin that needs to be superglued into place and oriented properly during replacement. All electrical feeds snap ou
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t neatly and are easily replaced. Reassemble ice dispenser and bin, and viola, your back in business.
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Noisey fan/motor (bad motor bearing ?)
37 of 46 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Keith from Fort Worth, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed 2 phillips head screws to remove ice maker (could have just loosened them)
Pulled fan off of shaft
Removed 2 phillips head screws on motor bracket , disconnected three motor wires & removed motor.
reversed process to install new motor & fan blade.
Space was a little tight for two hand and arms, but do-able.
Pulled fan off of shaft
Removed 2 phillips head screws on motor bracket , disconnected three motor wires & removed motor.
reversed process to install new motor & fan blade.
Space was a little tight for two hand and arms, but do-able.
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Drawer Slide Rails were broken
32 of 34 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Mikki from Tooele, UT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
For the past 6 months I've dreaded trying to find the parts and make the needed repairs to the slide rails. I just didn't have time to search for part numbers and drag all the tools out. I even contemplated buying a new frig. I thought I would have to find the original "Owners Manual". How stupid was I?
Within 15 minutes ... Read more the model number was determined and the parts (VERY EASY to find the exact part) were ordered. They arrived within a week (in a GE wrapper). I unscrewed two parts per rail and within minutes the repairs were done. It took me a lot longer to clean and wipe down everything to make the refrigerator look like new again. I bragged to all my friends (like I was some type of engineer) and have referred this website to many of them. What a fantastic experience. I saved over $1,200 and the hassle of moving a frig in and out of the house. Glad you're in business and on the web.
Within 15 minutes ... Read more the model number was determined and the parts (VERY EASY to find the exact part) were ordered. They arrived within a week (in a GE wrapper). I unscrewed two parts per rail and within minutes the repairs were done. It took me a lot longer to clean and wipe down everything to make the refrigerator look like new again. I bragged to all my friends (like I was some type of engineer) and have referred this website to many of them. What a fantastic experience. I saved over $1,200 and the hassle of moving a frig in and out of the house. Glad you're in business and on the web.
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Panel hot to touch between freezer & refrigerator. Motor hot, fan not rotating.
32 of 39 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kimberly from Grandy, NC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Unplugged refrigerator, removed three screws to take out part, disconnected the wires and removed bad unit. Removed fan blade from old unit and attached to the new unit. Attached wires, placed the new motor back in. Plugged it back in, within 20 minutes panel between freezer and refrigerator was cool to touch.
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