MRT18S Refrigerator - Instructions
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Refrigerator was constantly running and freezing
15 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from Rancho Cordova, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I removed the screw holding the assembly to the roof of the refrigerator and pulled it dow. I took out the two screws holding the Temp control, removed the three wires and reversed the process to reassemble. Works great now!
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Fridge side warm. Freezer was ok.
13 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Doug from Folsom, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Popped off the front plastic cover on the bottom of the fridge, under the doors. Two screws held the defrost timer on under the front side of fridge (below freezer door). You can't really see the timer except for the adjustment knob that is accessible through a hole. Once the screws are removed, disconnect the wire plug and remove and re
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placed unit. Works fine ever since.
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wonnt defrost
15 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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bruce from grand haven, MI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
removed back cover from freezer to replace defrost stat. removed cover from refrigerator to replace defrost timer
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Door would not stay closed
11 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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George from Odessa, FL
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Door would not stay closed so I decided to replace the gasket... The new gasket install was easy and quick. I removed the liner and took off the old gasket, placed the new gasket on the liner and reinstalled the liner. However that did not fix the original issue of the door not closing. I followed all the instructions listed on the web si
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te but none corrected the problem. The door on this model has no adjustment. So I adjusted the leveling wheels to tilt off center towards the back. That helped but still did not resolve the problem... I then closed the door slowly to see if it was being interfered with, As it turns out it was being hit by the bottom of the inside of the refrigerator. Since I could not adjust the door, I used the front leveling wheels to compensate for the lack of door adjustment. I slowly kept adjusting the w heels to see what effect it had. I finally adjusted them to the point were the door now closes and seals on its own. I’m guessing that over time the liner became malformed and caused the door to hit the inside of the refrigerator. After it started working I checked the level side to side and front to back. Side to side is good and there is a slight tilt to the rear.
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frezer not staying cold enough to freze newly added product
13 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert H. from Grand Blanc, MI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
took the shelves out, unscrewed the rear panel,unpluged the thermistat and uncliped it from the line.Replaced with new thermistat in the reverse order. Before turning the unit back on,allowed the coils to defrost.All of the process was shown in your vidio that I was able to view while ordering the part.
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Thank you
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Fan Noise
11 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kenneth from Springfield,, TN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
took cover off inside freezer control . removed old fan and unpluged wire harness plugged new one up and fastened back in place and put control cover back on.
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freezer kept icing over, refrigerator too hot
11 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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debra from new washington, OH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
First, I unplugged the appliance. Safety, first.
Than I removed the shield which was held in by screws. This covered the fan, thermometer.
The defrost thermostat was taken out, with a little extra force. The wires on the defective part were no longer attached to the part. The instructions were easy to follow in replacing the d ... Read more efrost thermostat. I stripped the coating on the wire, attached it with the enclosed electical bugs. The assy was able to follow, and the part went back on. The refrigerator is working perfectly. I couldn't have done it without the help in diagnosing the problem and with the speedy delivery of the new part. Thanks for all your help and the ease of the installing the new part!
Than I removed the shield which was held in by screws. This covered the fan, thermometer.
The defrost thermostat was taken out, with a little extra force. The wires on the defective part were no longer attached to the part. The instructions were easy to follow in replacing the d ... Read more efrost thermostat. I stripped the coating on the wire, attached it with the enclosed electical bugs. The assy was able to follow, and the part went back on. The refrigerator is working perfectly. I couldn't have done it without the help in diagnosing the problem and with the speedy delivery of the new part. Thanks for all your help and the ease of the installing the new part!
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Freezer Won't Auto Defrost
13 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ricky from San Francisco, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Make sure unplugged the frig before doing any repair. Just like other DIYers. opened up the evaporator located inside the freezer. Replaced the defrost thermostat, there's only 2 wires, so just make sure which is positive, which is negative. Replaced the defrost timer located on the bottom front of the frig. There's on 2 screws to unscre
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w. All those work took me less than half hour. Turn on the frig., now it works like a champ again. Hope it will last another 10 years.
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Broken Crisper drawer
11 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mark from Fitchburg, MA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed the old drawer. Put the front on the drawer which ws a little tricky but with the help of a screw driver to gently pry the drawer the front went on easy.
Put the drawer in the refrigerator.
Just like that.
Put the drawer in the refrigerator.
Just like that.
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Fridge Will Not Start
9 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John W from Gaylord, MI
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Tapping on the thermostat control would start the compressor, but after cycle was complete it would not start again on it's own. Seemed like a slam-dunk that the control contacts were worn out. PS had the right part in stock, and it arrived quickly. Nearly identical to the original part, it installed without any problems. One minor glitch
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, though - the mounting tabs are tapped for #6 screws, but the original screws were #4. Since no hardware was included, I had to dig up larger screws to make it work. Not a big deal at all - but it would be handy to include these screws. Works just like the original, maintains inside temp just fine. A no-brainer for 65 bucks. This fridge is 15+ years old, and now serves as a beer cave. Cold beers for everyone!
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Drip pan had rusted & was leaking water on the floor
9 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Forest, VA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
The BIG problem was getting the old drip pan off. The bolt on top of the compressor was too long to allow the removal of the old drip pan. I removed the old drip pan by cutting most of it away with tin shears then cutting the remaining part of the pan around the bolt with a hack saw (taking care not to damage freon lines and raising the p
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an above the threads of the bolt so as not to damage the threads). I still had to cut half the bolt away with a hack saw by replacing the nut and cutting a third of the bolt away (above the nut), so the new pan would fit. Putting the new pan on was a breeze after that. It may be easier to just cut the bolt off altogether on top of the compressor and use the wire clips per the instructions supplied with the kit to install the new one.
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My refrigerator handle broke
9 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rose from Catonsville, MD
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I watched the video online. It was so easy! All I needed was a screwdriver. It looks great.
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Freezer starter acumulating lots of ice and the lower part of fridge was not cooling at all.
9 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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alonso from Compton, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Wrench (Adjustable)
just took the back cover of the freezer of and then the fan. To do this, I just removed like four bolts at the corners and then four bolts that attached the fan to the cover. At the end, I just unplugged the cables. I got my new fan the very next day, which was like extremly fast, plug in the cables and attached the fan to the cover and t
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hen attached the cover to the original place. It's a pretty simple repair. My fridge is now working like it should be.
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broken deli drawer and gasket distended and out of place at corner
10 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Pamela from Severna Park, MD
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
My husband and I were online pricing new refrigerators ($1100 and up plus an otherwise okay frig to add to the landfill). I had a moment of clarity and tried a parts search and found this site. I decided we were NOT going to replace it, we would fix it.
I pulled out the entire shelf and unscrewed the rail. I manuevered in ... Read more the new rail and screwed it down. I returned the shelf and now I no longer have the deli drawer drop out of the tracks.
To replace the gasket, the worse part was having to empty the contents of the door and removed all of the 30+ screws that hold it in place. I positioned the gasket over the edge of the door inset, pressed it back up against the door with the gasket in place, lined up the screw holes and started turning the screwdriver. I screwed in the top 2 corners first so they would hold the door inset in place from that point.
The instructions stated that silicon sealant should be applied between the gasket and the door, particularly at the corners, and I did this, particularly since the corner pulling out was why I was replacing the gasket in the first place.
However after I returned all the screws to the proper place and turn the refrigerator back on, I noticed condensation around the seal. I realized after a few days that I had silicon on the gasket itself and this was causing an imperfect seal. I cleaned all the little wisps of silicon off the gasket and the frig has been fine ever since.
I pulled out the entire shelf and unscrewed the rail. I manuevered in ... Read more the new rail and screwed it down. I returned the shelf and now I no longer have the deli drawer drop out of the tracks.
To replace the gasket, the worse part was having to empty the contents of the door and removed all of the 30+ screws that hold it in place. I positioned the gasket over the edge of the door inset, pressed it back up against the door with the gasket in place, lined up the screw holes and started turning the screwdriver. I screwed in the top 2 corners first so they would hold the door inset in place from that point.
The instructions stated that silicon sealant should be applied between the gasket and the door, particularly at the corners, and I did this, particularly since the corner pulling out was why I was replacing the gasket in the first place.
However after I returned all the screws to the proper place and turn the refrigerator back on, I noticed condensation around the seal. I realized after a few days that I had silicon on the gasket itself and this was causing an imperfect seal. I cleaned all the little wisps of silicon off the gasket and the frig has been fine ever since.
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The fridge motor was running constantly and the fridge was warm inside
9 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Brighton, TN
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I secured the power to the fridge. I took the metal panel which covers the cooling coils in the freezer off by removing the the 6 sheet metal screws. I used a standard hair dryer to melt the ice block which had formed due to the failure of the defrost timer. I replace the defrost timer, which was located behind the left front wheel of
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the unit. Finding the timer was the hardest part of the job. Since I was having trouble with the defrost cycle I also decided to replace the defrost thermostat due to its age. The most important item I would like to share is once all the work is done and the panel is back in the freezer, the power is restored take a straight slot screw driver and give the defrost timer about an eighth of a turn clockwise to ensure it starts. Then mark it with a sharpe and check it in 3 or 4 hours to make sure it is running. I did not do this on the one I installed and the freezer did not go into the defrost cycle. Once I got the timer started, well the ice cream stay frozen. BE SURE NOT TO WORK ON YOUR EQUIPMENT WITH IT PLUGGED INTO POWER SOURCE!!!
Jim
Jim
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