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MRSR General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the MRSR
121 - 135 of 143

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Trim part on bottom of door was rusty
  • Richard from Euclid, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I ordered the part, It came a few days later,,Within 15-20 minutes, I had it installed..Pretty easy...Thanks
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The door handle on the over was broken.
  • Baker from Durant, OK
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I removed the oven door from the range. Removed the broken handle and replaced the new one.
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8" Haliant element stopped working/burned out!
  • Gwendoline from Vero Beach, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
After watching the demonstration on YOU TUBE by two separate persons, , I felt I could accomplish this repair job by myself. After all, if a 9 months pregnant lady on YOU TUBE can do it in 15 minutes then so could I. However, my particular stove turned out to be a bit more involved, and different than those whose demonstrations I ha d viewed! .. First turn off your electrical power at the circuit breaker. There is no need to unplug the stove, just test by turning it on and observing if the display is lit or the burners come on. If it doesn't then you are good to start the repair with the power off. 1) Open the oven door, then bend over and check underneath. There are two screws one on each side at the front. Using an 8 mm socket wrench undo those screws and put them in a safe place where they wont roll away. 2) I would suggest using an old towel or an old sheet once you have the stove top lifted to cover your work surface, so if you drop any little parts that might roll away, you will be able to just pick them up without a problem. Next you will need something to prop the stove top open or someone to hold it for you. I used the box that my new element came in and that worked well. 3) Here's where my stove differed.. I had a metal retaining bar across the two front elements holding them up in place. .. I unscrewed the two small screws that held it in place at the edge of the stove. (I just did it on the side where I was replacing the element). This does not release your element just the bar so you can get access to the element. 4) Next, using your pliers you will see a couple of round washers that have teeth, these are holding a spring in place on a metal peg, this keeps the element from falling or moving out of position.. It was a bit difficult releasing the washers but I eventually did it, with my pliers, and then had to straighten the washers out for use afterwards 5) Once the washers are off, this frees the spring and allows the element to be removed. from the bar. 6)Next, I recommend taking a picture of the wiring, so you will know what goes to where. There are four wires on the old element, so I just followed the color coded placement and fasten them in the same place onto the new element. The wires are a bit stiff to remove, and if you are using pliers be careful as they are fragile and could break. 6) When I removed my GE replacement element from the packaging, it turned out to be a little different, and did not have the two metal pegs on it. In order to make it fit so I could do the repair. I unscrewed the two pegs from the old element, then counting around the outside holes on the new element to get them in the exact same place, I then attempted to screw them in.. This was the difficult part as they did not easily fit, and I had to ream out the holes to get the posts to screw into the new element. 6) Once that was done, the rest is easy just putting it back together the same way you took it apart. With the pegs screwed in place and the four wiring clips put on the new element, then it should not take long to complete. Next fit the spring over the metal peg first, then put the peg through the hole on the retaining bar. Make sure you get them lined up in the correct position. If you don't then they will be out of alignment with the Ring marking on the glass surface. Check this before you get it all put back together. The retaining bar has four holes in it, so you will see what I mean. The metal pegs on my element went into two opposing holes. Once that is done, the spring goes over the peg, then the peg goes into the retaining bar, and lastly, the small round washer fits the bottom of the peg to keep the spring held tight and the element in place on the metal retaining bar. You are almost done. Next simply put the retaining bar back up, make sure your element lines up on the top of your stove in the position it was before, then put the two small screws
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The door handle end caps did not fit on to the handle far enough. this caused the screw hole spread to be too wide, Also the new end caps had two nipples outside the bolt holes that the original brackets did not have.
  • Michael from South Bend, WA
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
The reason the brackets didn't go on to the handle far enough was there was a molding defect inside one of the brackets. After alot of scraping at the inside of the bracket and lightly tapping with a soft hammer I was able to get the defective bracket on so that the holes lined up to the mounting plate. As for the extra nipples I had two options. Either cut the nipples off or drill some holes in the metal plate that the brackets attach to. I chose the latter. I had to attach the brackets to the plate with extra long screws, reach in under the bracket with a scribe and mark the nipple location on the plate. Then I removed the handle and drilled two holes for each bracket. After some minor adjustments to the holes I was able to attach both brackets and reassemble the oven door.
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Broken oven door handle. Needed the brackets and screws to repair it.
  • Margaret from Cogan Station, PA
  • Really Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
removed the broken parts and screwed on the new parts.
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plastic sockets in end caps for connection screws broke off
  • cornelius from Hollister, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Very detailed repair instructions on internet made installation of new end caps a job not needing a professioal.
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All Instructions for the MRSR
121 - 135 of 143