MRSC20 General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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Stripper on the icemaker broke into pieces.
18 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tracy from Yuba City, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Remove the two nuts holding the top of the unit to the side of the freezer using a 1/4 in nutdriver. Pull the unit out and unplug it from the back of the freezer. Remove all pieces of the broken stripper. The replacement part fits onto a peg on the back of the icemaker and into a slot. Bend into place and slide into position.
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Broken water line near solonoid to feed drinking water
20 of 29 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gregory from Yucca Valley, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
bought an push in, in line connector and a new 5/16 plastic hose. I just replaces 2 feet of plastic hose from the selonid up an splices the hose using the connector. Worked perfect.
Other Parts Used:
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Compressor overheating - Fridge not Cooling
16 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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CHRIS from LAGUNA NIGUEL, CA
- Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Condensor Fan not turning. I thought it would be an easy fix. I thought I could pull off the shroud and fan assy - no joy. Too many copper pipes and lots of tubing in the way. It took 90 minutes to remove and 30 minutes to install. The BIG hint here is to loosen the shoud, pull it back as far as you can and then remove the nut that holds
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the fan blade in place. THEN you can remove the motor. Get the new motor back into the shroud, get the blade back on and then tighten the shroud back up.
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loss of refrigeration
15 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Heather from Pennington, NJ
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After mopping up the floor - the whole freezer that was iced up melted - that's how I found out about the problem...
Disconnected the power, emptied the freezer, removed the shelves. Under the ice maker was the light cover - I removed that first, then the two screws holding the back panel in place - The light panel was covering ... Read more the top screw.
With the screws removed, I pulled out the back panel - which needs to be jiggled around a bit to get it past the shelf brackets.
With the cover off, I could see the mostly de-iced coil at the back of the unit. The defrost heater was visible at the bottom of the coil frame. To remove the bracket/heater, I removed the two cross head screws (one on each side) holding the bracket to the coil frame. I then twisted the side tabs of the bracket assembly and pulled the entire bracket/heater/wiring from the coil frame.
With better access tot he bracket/heater I was able to disconnect the wires. I grabbed the new bracket/heater, reattached the wires and pushed the bracket/heater back onto the coil frame and closed the side tabs firmly attaching the bracket to the frame. I then screwed the tabs back onto the frame.
Replaced the back panel, screwed it in place. Put back the light cover and then the shelves. Turned the appliance back on and left it for a few hours - before checking to see if there was any drop in temperature. There was, so after 24 hours or so I reloaded all the food...
NOTE: I was certain that the heater had failed! When I pulled the OLD one out it was obviously burned out - the glass tube was blackened and pieces of the element could be seen in the bottom of the tube.
Disconnected the power, emptied the freezer, removed the shelves. Under the ice maker was the light cover - I removed that first, then the two screws holding the back panel in place - The light panel was covering ... Read more the top screw.
With the screws removed, I pulled out the back panel - which needs to be jiggled around a bit to get it past the shelf brackets.
With the cover off, I could see the mostly de-iced coil at the back of the unit. The defrost heater was visible at the bottom of the coil frame. To remove the bracket/heater, I removed the two cross head screws (one on each side) holding the bracket to the coil frame. I then twisted the side tabs of the bracket assembly and pulled the entire bracket/heater/wiring from the coil frame.
With better access tot he bracket/heater I was able to disconnect the wires. I grabbed the new bracket/heater, reattached the wires and pushed the bracket/heater back onto the coil frame and closed the side tabs firmly attaching the bracket to the frame. I then screwed the tabs back onto the frame.
Replaced the back panel, screwed it in place. Put back the light cover and then the shelves. Turned the appliance back on and left it for a few hours - before checking to see if there was any drop in temperature. There was, so after 24 hours or so I reloaded all the food...
NOTE: I was certain that the heater had failed! When I pulled the OLD one out it was obviously burned out - the glass tube was blackened and pieces of the element could be seen in the bottom of the tube.
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Flapper not sealing. Frost buildup on inside of freezer door
15 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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D from ZELLWOOD, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Followed previous instructions from a previous post. Inserted small screwdriver in the 2 outer holes up under the face plate to remove it then removed 4 screws holding the inner assembly which allowed access to the flapper assembly. Replaced it and reassembled everything. Problem solved
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Water Leak From The Ice Make - Water All Over The Frig
14 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David T from Irvine, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Replace the old water valve (wr57x11) with the new one (wr57x10051: make sure you unplug the 110 ac power . And close the water come to the refrig. First 1. Open the paper panel on the back with screw driver. 2 Use a small adj. Wrench to take the old valve of. 3. Label the connector and its terminals in a proper number to ident
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ify their connector. 4. Unscrew 2 water hoses - one to the drinking one to the ice maker. They are in diff. Sizes - make sure to mark where the hoses connected in case you need to use it again. 5. Cut of the thread section on the hose end - you do not need thread any more on the new water valve. 6. Make sure the new valve is in the same position as the old one. Then plug the water hoses to the valve - and connector terminals. There are 2 new terminal adapter in your new package. These new adapter will be fit to the old hardness for connecting to the new valve. 7. Secure the valve onto the refig frame then plug in the water hose to make sure no leak at the valve. The new valve has new type of self-lock plug ( not thread ) to the 2 water hoses. Make sure to press hard so the hoses are fit in to these new water . Valves. Turn on the water and power on on the refrig. That's all. Very simple save $300 for hiring the service man. Good luck to all.
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water line leaking behind refigerator
14 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Merrimac, MA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers
Plastic water line gets brittle from compersor heat over time and eventually brakes. I tried to fix with 5/16 line from a locel hardware store but outter diameter was slightly smaller so connection to valve leaked. This OEM part fit perfect. I cut the line beyond the brake and connected it with the tube union part, Easy fix. Everyt
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hing works fine with no leaks
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Refigerator door would no longer self close
14 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Melvin from Philomath, OR
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Moved all items from door storage into refrigerator shelves. Removed top hinge cover held by single screw and top hinge plate held by two bolts. Lifted up door to clear bottom hinge pin and removed door. Covered open front of refrigerator with plastic wrap to keep cold in refrigerator with door removed. Laid door on kitchen counter to
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p and removed bottom hinge assembly held on by two bolts. Replaced upper cam located on bottom of door and screwed the hinge assembly back on to bottom of door (helps to keep the three plates in same sequence and note the position of cam). Drilled out the rivet that holds the lower cam to the bottom hinge pin. Removed old lower cam and and replaced with new cam and secured to lower hinge assembly with pan head screw and nut (instead of rivet). Replaced door back onto lower hinge pin and secured upper hinge pin with original bolts. Placed cover on upper hinge assembly and secured with original screw. Removed plastic wrap from front of refrigerator and moved the items that originally were stored in the door back to provide weight needed for door to close properly. All done and the door works like new, and all in less than 45 minutes. Would have been a more difficult job without the pioneering of people on this site. Thanks to all!
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My 13 yr grandson assisted me on this
15 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Sherry from Auburn Hills, MI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
We couldn't get the other connector loose from one end of the tubing so he said just cut it and so we did and attached the connector. I now have water again in my fridge and took the sticky note down "don't use the water" as it had leaked for a year...... Thanks!
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Door hinge cam crumbled
14 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ralph from Portland, OR
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Simple job, empty the door shelves, remove top hinge, lift door off bottom hinge, remove bottom hing. The reassembly is the reverse, with a little cleaning along the way and a little white lithium grease on the hinge pins and cams.
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ice maker not making ice
16 of 22 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Cristina from Los Angeles, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
just unscrewed the 3 screws, attached the rounded plug that came with the unit and screwed back only 2 screws. ice magic in about a couple of hours
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plastic broke around revit l/side shelf broken
14 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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armando from corona, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
used pliers to break revit,installed new shelf left side front is held by screw with phillips head and the back is connected by revit installed new revit.
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icemaker developed a leak and froze over
18 of 30 people
found this instruction helpful.
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debbie from chino hills, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
My husband did the repair, and even though our refrigerator is roughly 20+ years old, he was able to adapt it to work in all the right spots and we now have ice cubes! I'm very happy we did not have to spend $2000 on a comparable refrigerator.
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Ice maker ot making ice
18 of 31 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Barry from Phoenix, AZ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
First I replaced the double valve because the ice maker was not filling with water. It still did not work. Then I replaced the ice maker itself. This worked and was relatively easy to replace. I had to use the water fill "slide" from the old ice maker. The new one was too narrow and it leaked water into the freezer.
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Noisey Motor, Bearings Out, Dying
12 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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PERRY from VANDERBILT, MI
- Easy
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Wrench set
Remove back cover, exposing fan motor. Turn off power, remove nut on fan blades. Remove fan carefully, do not bend. Unhook wiring harness. Remove three screws that hold the motor on the back frame. Remove old motor, install new. Carefully, reinstall fan blades, hook up wiring, and your ready for tryout. Also do some cleaning whil
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e your there. Clean old fan blades with hot soapy water or contact cleaner. Everything runs better clean!
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