This OEM cup filter is designed to be compatible with all rear-filter refrigerators made before April 2001. The filter fits into a round white plastic housing. For this repair you may also require the PS428513 wrench or PS428532 O-ring. To install you will need to unscrew the cup before you can see the old filter, and then dump the water....Read more Pull the old filter straight down and place the new filter inside the filter cup. The end of the filter with the O-ring should be directed upward. As you tighten the filter it will align itself. If your refrigerator has a Change Filter light, it will need to be reset. Press and hold this button until the green light flashes (up to 15 seconds). This filter has a 2-Inch depth, 4.25-Inch height, 2-Inch width and needs to be replaced every 6 months of use or 200 gallons depending on which comes first. Filters for: Taste and odor Sediment 99.3% of Lead 99.99% of Cysts 99.7% of Turbidity 99.8% of Particulates (Class I) 94.9% of Atrazine (a herbicide) 94.2% of 2,4-D (a herbicide) 97.8% of Chlorine (Class I) 87.5% of Toxaphene (a pesticide).
This Defrost Timer works like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or frost to maintain proper airflow. The defrost timer is located in the control housing which is in the refrigerator section of your appliance...Read more. If this part is not working, it can lead to temperature increases in your refrigerator. If the compressor circuit fails, no cooling will take place; if the defrost circuit isn't activated, ice will quickly build up on the evaporator coils and reduce airflow and efficiency. If the timer doesn't advance or if the contacts have no continuity, the timer will need to be replaced. This timer measures approximately 3 inches long and 2.5 inches wide, and is constructed of plastic and metal. It comes in black/white/silver and is sold individually. This replacement part features 1 defrost timer.
The door shelf end cap, or door bin support, secures the rack in a refrigerator or freezer door. Note that this fits on either the left or right hand side. If the end caps of your refrigerator or freezer are broken or cracked, or if your food retainer bar is not staying in place, then replacing the door support can solve this problem. No ...Read moretools are needed for this repair project. To repair, first remove the end cap by pushing upward or downwards to slide it out the end of the rail. Next, replace with new end cap and line it up to clip it back onto the rail. It comes in white and measures about two inches high. Remember to wear gloves for safety.
This refrigerator defrost thermostat is a genuine OEM part and is sourced directly from the manufacturer. Located on the back wall of the freezer section in the refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is used to regulate the appliances temperature to keep the refrigerator cold and constant. The part is made of plastic, and has a 4 inch termi...Read morenal on the white lead and a 6 inch terminal on the red lead. A refrigerator defrost thermostat may need to be replaced if the appliance is experiencing temperature related issues such as: too cold, too warm, frost buildup, not running, or running too long.
This 8-cube ice maker is used to create ice for your refrigerator. The ice maker receives water from the water inlet valve and will freeze until ice cubes are formed. Once the water has been frozen the cubes will be ejected from the mold in to the ice bucket. The ice maker will continue the process until the ice bucket has reached the l...Read moreimit. If your ice maker is not making ice you may need to replace this part. Please remember to disconnect the power and water supply before starting your repair. This ice maker is a genuine OEM part.
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If the existing bulb is broken in the socket, disconnect the power to the refrigerator and use a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the intern...Read moreal fragments of the bulb to unscrew. Replace with the new bulb and reconnect the power to the refrigerator. These bulbs are sold individually and are a commonly replaced part; consider ordering a spare.
This white door shelf bar is approximately 31 inches long and provides storage space on your refrigerator door. If it becomes loose, cracked, or detached, it needs to be replaced. A damaged shelf bar can lead to sagging and insufficient support for your groceries. To remove the old shelf bar, release the retaining clips or brackets and sl...Read moreide it out carefully. You can cut this retainer bar to fit your fridge model. When purchasing this OEM replacement part, check how many your fridge needs as this shelf bar is sold individually.
The run capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature in your fridge and freezer. You may need to replace your run capacitor if your refrigerator or freezer section will not start, if they are too warm, or if your refrigerator has become too noisy. Replacing the run capacitor is a relatively easy ...Read moreproject. For this repair you will only need a 1/4 inch nut driver and needle nose pliers. Remember to disconnect the power and water supply line to the unit before you begin this repair. For full step by step instructions, simply click on the video below.
This ice container assembly is designed to securely store ice within your refrigerator while facilitating efficient dispensing. The kit includes the ice container, auger, and blades, all engineered for seamless integration with compatible models. The auger mechanism rotates to move ice toward the dispenser, while the blades help break up ...Read moreclumps for consistent flow. Replacing the assembly is a straightforward process that requires no tools. Begin by turning off the ice maker, then remove the existing container from the freezer compartment. Align the connector with the auger yoke and slide the new container into position. Once installed, the ice maker can be turned back on, restoring full functionality.
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Water in Frig was tasting bad.
499 of 504 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Patricia from Fulton, MO
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
I turned the cap for the old filter and pulled it out . Then I put in the new one in and turned the cap to secure it in frig.
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water from refigerator dispenser started tasting bad
369 of 370 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Anthony from Springfield, VA
Easy
Less than 15 mins
I removed the top shelf in the fridge. I then unscrewed the cover to the water filter and pulled the filter cartridge down into the cover. Keep the cover upright as there may be some water in it. I carried it to the sink. I took the new cartridge and ran water through it from the sink, then set it in the cover and took it to the fridg
... Read moree. I pushed the cartridge up into the space that I removed the old one from and screwed the cover back on. Then I took an empty pitcher and filled it from the water dispenser in the fridge door. I did this three times to charge the filter and remove charcoal dust. Water tastes great now. I ordered two filters so I would ony have to buy once a year. Great site to order the filters from. Cheaper than other sources and delivery was quick.
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Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
340 of 407 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Stephen from Warrington, PA
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re
... Read moremoved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.