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MRS20H Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the MRS20H
1 - 15 of 287

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Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
340 of 407 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Warrington, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.

Pulled plug.

Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re moved.

Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.

Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.

Removed old badly corroded thermostat.

I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.

Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.

Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.

Plugged back in and everying is working great!
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freezer would not defrost
185 of 208 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roger from Orangevale, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My freezer would freeze up and not allow cold air to refrigerator side. First I took off bottom face plate, located the timer on left side bottom, removed the two screws and unpluged the timer. Replaced the timer with new one. Second I removed all food from freezer. Took of back of freezer wall with nut driver. Located the thermostat whic h was very easy to remove. Just one clip holding thermostat. Unplugged the two wires from the old thermostat and plugged in new wires. Thanks to Partselect.com, the parts were an exact match. Very easy to do. Saved my tons of money. Freezer and refer works like new.
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Freezer coil frosting up solid. Refrigerator warming
106 of 118 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Newark, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
First - I asked a person familiar in ref/freezer repair for assistance. This was the hardest issue - trying to find someone to offer "free" advise. He stated that when this problem occurs it is usually one of two things: 1) The defrost timer (underneath Refrigerator - Attached w/2 screws and plug-n connector) not functioning or 2) The de frost sensor (clipped-on to the coolant line (2-press-on wires) above the main coolant coil in in rear of freezer section behind panel secured w/5 1/4" hex-head screws) not properly sensing need for defrosting. The Tech. also stated that the defrost/heat coil, which surrounds the large coolant coil in the back of the freezer hardly ever goes bad unless it is the glass/clear type coil which often crack. (Mine was the black filament type element like found in an electric oven). I check the element with an ohm meter - 27 ohms of resistance which indicated it was okay). I replaced both defrost timer & defrost sensor at the same time and that fixed the problem. Parts ordered were an exact match to originals (dispite model number changes/upgrades) and everything went very well. NOTE: It is good to have the part numbers off of each original item and know what they are called before placing your order. All fixed for less than $50.00. A service call alone would be more than this. Took about 2 hours to do, due to having to defost the iced-up freezer coil w/a hair blower. Don't use sharp objects to chip away ice, let the blower do the work - Patience and a couple of towels to absorb water is important here. Hope this helps the other do-it-yourselfers.
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Clicking sound then within a minute clicking again, not cooling.
81 of 97 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Melvin from Semmes, AL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
UNPLUG REFRIGERATOR. Carefully remove relay from the side of the compressor. You shouldn't need a tool to do this, if it is hard you can gently pry the edge with a flat head screw driver just to loosen. Unplug white and red wires from relay, noting that the white wire goes in the hole with a #2 stamped beside it. Shake old relay, if it r attles like a baby rattler then it's most likely the problem. Replace wires into the new relay and plug back into the compressor.
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Side-by-side .. freezer working, fridge not cooling
48 of 52 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tad from Lancaster, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
My freezer was frozen but my refrigerated side was not cooling, the temp was actually around 60-degrees. After inspecting i noticed no air was flowing through the vent from freezer side to fridge side. I removed everything from freezer and took the back wall panel off inside freezer section and immedietely noticed alot of ice on coils etc . After researching i found the defrost timer was not working and thus allowing frost and ice to build up on coils and block air flow. My defrost timer was located on the front bottom left behind kick panel, using a phillips screwdriver i removed 2 screws and then disconnected wire harness to the defrost timer. Then i inserted new defrost timer and connected wire harness and then put the 2 screws back in. My fridge is now working great and the ice build-up is gone and i am getting good air flow .. temps on fridge side are now between 32-34degrees. This was an easy project and saved me alot of money doing myself
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Wouldn't hold temp.
49 of 58 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Laurence from Overland Park, KS
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I'm too young to die so I unpluged the refriderator first. The cold control is mounted in a plastic housing at the top of the freezer compartment that is held in place by two screws on the back side. I removed them with a nutdriver. Pull off the knob and use a screwdriver to release the control from it's bracket and pull off the 3 wire s noteing where they go. Slide the sensing element out and remove the plastic sleeve. Stragihten the sensing element on the new control and slide on the plastic sleve. Slide the sensing element in place, push the wires onto the terminals and snap the control into the bracket. Re-install the two screws and the control knob. Plug it in and you're done. It took longer to write this than to replace the control.
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freezer working but refrigerator not getting cold
38 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Raymond T from New York, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
THERMOSTAT--First I removed the fours crews that hold the back of freezer (inside freezer) in place. I then pulled the thermostat out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Plugged in the new one and put back in place. Replaced freezer back and installed the four screws that holds it in.(iIf your freezer has a ice maker just loose n the 2 screws that hold it and lift the ice maker up off the screws
DEFROST TIMER--- removed one screw inside fridge by light bulb that holds in the timer and setting knob, then took out the two screws that held in the timer unplugged the old timer and replaced with the new one put back in the two screws that holds the timer in then replaced the one screw that holds the unit in place
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Freezer - Refrigerator Not Cold, Keeps Running
29 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ASHLEY from SHENANDOAH, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
At top of refrigerator compartment, took out screws to cover (where temp control is) and to the right took out 2 screws to remove defrost timer and installed in reverse order. In freezer compartment, unscrewed back of freezer wall and took off completely. Removed old freezer thermostat, the body of freezer thermostat snapped onto coil and wire plugged in. Let run for 24 hrs, then made adjustments to temps, so far temps are back in normal range.
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no cooling in fridge or freezer due to bad defrost timer
29 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Todd from pottstown, PA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
i removed the 4 screws holding cover. removed two screws holding timer. unplugged timer. plugged in new one. reassembled.
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The evaporator coil in the freezer would cake up with ice, choking off the cold air flow into the lower refridgerator compartment. A repair man had previously replaced the defrost heater element, but this did not fix the problem.
24 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Erle from Boise, ID
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First, unplug the refrigerator since you're working with live wires.

Remove the 4 Philips sheet metal screws holding the plastic housing that holds the temperature control to the top of the refrigerator compartment. Pull the housing down then out since there is a tube on the housing where the water flows out the back of the re frigerator during the defrost cycle.

Remove the 2 Philips screws holding the defrost timer on the plastic housing. Pull the connectors off the old timer and attach them in exactly the same positions on the new defrost timer.

Attach the new defrost timer to the plastic housing with the 2 screws.

Reinstall the plastic housing, making sure the water tube is inserted into the back of the refrigerator wall.

Plug the refrigerator back in and you're done.
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Fridge warming but freezer still frozen
24 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Todd from Thornton, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I ordered a defrost timer and defrost thermostat from partselect.com. Parts arrived in 2 days (earlier than expected). Unplugged appliance, removed bottom cover, unscrewed 2 screws holding timer in place, unplugged timer and replaced with new part. Fastened back into place. Next removed back cover of freezer (5 screws using nut driver ). Disconnected old thermostat and removed. Wires already had connectors installed. cut off the connectors with some wire left on and reconnected them to the new thermostat with the included blue wire crimps. Tried to use the shrink tube to insulate but couldn't get it snug enough. Just used electrical tape instead. Reinstalled thermostat. Reassembled cover. Plugged in and fridge and freezer are working fine again. Thanks partselect.com.
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buttom of refrigerator not cold
23 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Giuseppe from brick, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
unplug it, pulled compressor start relay,which i thing it was the problem, but i replace bolt, very easy.
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Refrigerator upper section was warm - defrost system failure
21 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Flourtown, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
remove all freezer items and remove back panel covering the coils - about 8-10 nuts using a nut driver. The coils in my refridgerator were covered with a heavy frost - thermostat was also frozen over. Manually turn the defrost timer so the fan turns off to observe if the heating element is working (defrost timer is on the bottom front o f the refrigerator on the left side). My heating element did work so I decided to replace the thermostat and defrost timer. Unplug the refrigerator. Disconnect 2 wires connecting the thermostat and unhook. Replacing with new thermostat - red and white wires that have male/female connectors and hook onto coil as before. Note that two parts with similar names were offered by PartsSelect and you really couldn't tell which was the right one - I got both but returning the unused one was very easy but cost a couple of bucks in shipping. Next, take out two screws and the bracket that holds the defrost timer in place and unplug it. Plug in the new one and screw it back in. Reinstall the back panel - throw out all that stuff in the freezer that you've had in there for 10 years and turn it back on - very simple and it worked perfectly. Very good experience with returning parts - excellent customer service.
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Refrigerator freezing
22 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Miles from Longview, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Used exploded parts view to locate part. Removed old part and replaced with new defrost timer. Piece of cake.
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Light Socket short
22 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rebecca from Gautier, MS
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
- Unsnapped old light socket from top of Frig
- Disconnected elect wires
- Reconnected elect wires to new light socket
- Snapped new socket in place
- Done in less than 2 min.
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All Instructions for the MRS20H
1 - 15 of 287