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MLXG62RBW0 Tappan Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Dryer Drum Squealing Loudly!
13 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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john from waynesboro, VA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
This unit is a stackable washer&dryer,so first pull unit away from wall atleast 4 foot. Unplug power cord,then take10 dagree front panel off then the control panel off and unplug the 5 connetors if your unit has that many,then lay panel asside. Take dryer door off,makes it easier when putting it all back together. Now take front panel off
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and the dryer lent tube,now just take the 3 center phillips head screws out and slide drum out. Pull upward on what they call the shaft which held drum on. Now these are the parts you should order. Belt,grounding ball clip,grounding ball,drum support bearing,bearing bracket,and most important part is the shaft. The shaft is ur insurance for the whole job. Use a good grease like white lithium grease and coat the shaft end and the drum support bearing. The grease will cut down on friction for a while,and re assemble the way you took apart. Reminder grounding ball goes behind drum support bearing not in front. Good luck and please vaccum.
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Small water leak around front of machine and clothes would not spin dry.
15 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Chanc from Gibson City, IL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed the 2 screws that hold the front panel on and slid the panel down to remove it, after first lifting the top panel and supporting it in the upright position out of the way. popped the two clips that hold the pump on, and used the pliers to remove the hose clamps on the pump. the pump was rusted to the motor shaft, so I had to use
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some force to pry it off of the motor. then i had to use some sandpaper to clean the rust off of the motor shaft. slid the new pump on and secured the hoses and hold down clips. then pushed the belt tensioner in and replaced the belt. the machine is like new again.
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Tub was leeking
15 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gregory from Fort Worth, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Lifted top
removed adgetator
removed tub top
removed inside tub
removed inside tub holder bracket
repaced seal
replaced,replaced.....
removed adgetator
removed tub top
removed inside tub
removed inside tub holder bracket
repaced seal
replaced,replaced.....
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washer belt broke
11 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carl from Boxford, MA
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
followed the instructions on a blog
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top glide was worn and "grabbing" clothes
10 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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DANIEL from WEST HAZLETON, PA
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplug dryer (gotta say it). Remove the two screws that hold in the lint catch. Remove top of dryer (two screws in back hold brackets, the front snaps on). remove two screws along the front edge to take front panel off the dryer (there are also clips). Unhook the two electrical connectors that control the door shut off. Once the front
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is off, remove the old glide and felt and install the new parts. Be sure not to step on the tube of contact cement, making it explode inside the bag. That sucked. Reassemble.
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dryer had a bad squeak
10 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jana from Fort Worth, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed dryer front, unscrewed 3 screws in center hub, replaced bearing assembly. Removed old basket seal with razor scraper, cleaned surface with mineral spirits, applied new basket seal. Replaced dryer front and project was done. Dryer has no more sqeaks.
Other Parts Used:
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Wretched screeching noise
9 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Paul from Broadalbin, NY
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!
1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down
2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws ... Read more that hold the face of the cabinet.
3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face.
4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together
5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum
6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out)
7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer
8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time)
9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease
10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum
11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down
12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner
13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet
14) Put the cabinet back together
1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down
2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws ... Read more that hold the face of the cabinet.
3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face.
4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together
5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum
6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out)
7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer
8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time)
9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease
10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum
11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down
12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner
13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet
14) Put the cabinet back together
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No hot Water to washing machine
9 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dominick from Las Vegas, NV
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
S/O Water , Removed front panel, removed screws from side panel water valve accessible. Removed screws that hold water valve, installed new valve reassembled washing machine.
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Wash tub would not drain/burning rubber smell
10 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Clay from Kansas City, MO
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I removed the top of the washer by removing two screws on the back. I located and bypassed the lid switch to make sure that wasn't the problem. The problem still existed so I removed the two screws that hold the front panel of the washer. Using a flashlight, I located the drive belt and immediately saw that it was out of position and h
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ad pieces missing. I cut and removed the old belt, placed the new belt on the tub pulley and slowly maneuvered it onto the motor drive wheel. I then squeezed the tensioner pulley so that the belt was seated. I turned the timer dial which started the washer and it immediately began pumping the water out of the tub. Problem solved!
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leaking water inlet valve
9 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steven from Oklahoma City, OK
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
removed the two 'lock down flanges' from the back of the machine, lifted the top from the front and slid it forward to access the valve. Removed the two electrical connections then the compression ring from the hose on the output side. Removed two screws holding the valve in place, then reversed the process.
I wish this valve w ... Read more as made of metal rather than plastic. I had to replace it because the threads were stripped. Here's the heads up. Make sure the fittings on your supply hoses are 'clean' or you'll mess up the plastic threads and not get a good seal.
I wish this valve w ... Read more as made of metal rather than plastic. I had to replace it because the threads were stripped. Here's the heads up. Make sure the fittings on your supply hoses are 'clean' or you'll mess up the plastic threads and not get a good seal.
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Water valve not shutting off correctly
9 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Eric from Sebastopol, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
After the new replacement part arrived, I took off the complete back panel (after unplugging the electrical and shutting off the hot & cold water supply). I disconnected both hot & cold water hoses, unscrewed the 2 screws holding the water valve, unplugged the 2 electrical wires for the water valve sending unit, unclamped the outlet water
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hose. Then I reversed order with new water valve. Put everthing back together in about 20 minutes overall. I did also replace the hot & cold water supply hoses with a better quality hose. Works like new! Thank you very much.
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The threaded male coupling on the water inlet valve is plastic and broke during moving.
8 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Alan from Denver, CO
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I installed this part on a stackable washer-dryer unit. First, I removed the hoses (one had broken off already, damaging the cold water coupling). Using a nut driver I removed the screws on both L-brackets in back that help secure the dryer unit to the washer base. Then, I located 2 other screws securing the dryer to the washer base.
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These were fairly accessible in the recess where the dryer exhaust vent is located, directly above the water inlet valve. I removed both with a nut driver. I thought I would have to also unscrew 2 more screws on the other side of the dryer, but these were not accessible. So I lifted the side of the dryer I had unbolted to get to the water inlet valve. And voila! It lifted up. I placed a 2x4 on edge to keep the dryer tilted open. The inlet valve is attached to the back inside of the washer by a single screw on the Kenmore, which I removed with a phillips screw driver. Reaching inside the back of the washer, I disconnected the water hose by pinching the retaining clip with pliers. Then I pulled the electrical connections off the the hot and cold solenoids and the unit came out. The replacement unit was installed in reverse.
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Several knob broke. Could not select and turn on washer-dryer combo
9 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rownak from Austin, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
I removed the broken knobs and after that it was just plug and play.
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washer went into spin mode but would not spin
9 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Damon from Hinesville, GA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I removed the front panel to see the belt was snapped in two. The front roller is sping loaded, so I gave it a little tention, slid the belt back on and viola! it was that easy. If your washer starts to vibrate more and sounds louder than normal, get a belt as soon as possible because that may be the problem. Once I put on the new belt, t
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he machine ran as quiet as it did when I first bought it.
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Leaking Pump
9 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mike from Put-in-Bay, OH
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers
Remove front cover of stackable washer dryer to expose pump. Remove belt from drum and motor. Remove water lines from pump. Remove motor and pump which is on top of motor. Pump was rusted to shaft of motor which was removed by pry bars. Cleaned shaft with emery cloth and applied never siezed to shaft. Replaced motor. Replaced pump on shaf
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t of motor. Replaced wiring. Replaced hoses. Replaced belt. Replaced hold down clips. Back in service.
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