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MLXG42RBW0 Tappan Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions
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Loud Squeaking
355 of 383 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Frank from Boyertown, PA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1. Unplug dryer from outlet
2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs
3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way
4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel
5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom.
6. Rlease tension on drum be ... Read more lt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer.
7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum.
8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit
9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket)
10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer.
11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect.
12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside
13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.
2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs
3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way
4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel
5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom.
6. Rlease tension on drum be ... Read more lt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer.
7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum.
8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit
9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket)
10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer.
11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect.
12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside
13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.
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replace broken drive belt
285 of 320 people
found this instruction helpful.
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rodney from fairfield bay, AR
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins,remove 2 phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel,slightly lift upward on panel to release.remove old broken belt,push new belt beneath large tub pulley,put belt on small motor pulley,push back belt tension /idler arm,start belt on large tub pulley,turn tub p
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ulley by hand to run belt on,release tension on idler arm.replace front panel and lower top.WALAAH!!!! you are done.
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Drum glide wore down and caused close to get stuck between drum and front panel.
182 of 251 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from Boise, ID
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Unpluged dryer. Removed the top of dryer by pushing in a retaining clip on both sides of the front lip with a screw driver. Remove the two screws on both sides of front panel. These screws are square head or phillips #2. Unplugged the wiring harness to front panel (make sure power has been disconnected). Support drum and lean front pa
... Read more
nel away from dryer body. Front panel will pull off of tabs at bottom. The old drum glide is fiberous and hard to remove. I removed most of it with the pliers, but had to carefully scrape the balance of the glide off with the wood chisel. The adhesive that comes with the repair part has an acetone base, so I used acetone (or you could use nail polish remover) to remove the old adhesive. Once the acetone has dried, I applied an 1/8" snaking bead of adhesive to the front panel. There is more adhesive in the tube than you need so do not use too much. Make sure that you get adhesive as close to the base of the lower seal as you can. Follow directions on adhesive tube and then attach the glide. I let it set up for about 30 seconds. Place the front panel back on the tabs of the dryer. Carefully lift the drum an fit it on the front panel and insert the two screws holding the panel to the base. Reconnect the wiring harness and make sure it is not in contact with the drum. Check to make sure that all of the electrical connectors on the timer are still in place. Reassemble the dryer. Reconnect power.
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squeeking like crazy
135 of 161 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steve from Wheelersburg, OH
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench set
well, i started at the top and worked my way down. by taking the top off, it gave me more room to get the dryer tub out. took the two screw`s out of the vented plate on the back of the machine to undo the belt. this is a stackable washer-dryer combo, so next i took off the white plate on front between washer & dryer. took off the control
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panel, unpluged it, then took dryer door front off. then removed the two screw`s that hold that bracket on ,in the back of dryer, pulled the drum out & replaced the belt, but before replacing anything i took the shopvac to it , there was alot of lint in there.when replacing the Grounding Ball Clip & Grounding Ball, i took a one inch by two inch magnet and used it to hold the Grounding Ball & Clip in place so i could get the two screws started in the Drum Support Bearing & Bearing Bracket. after installing that i put the shaft in place & lined the dryer tub up with the 3 screw hole`s ,and boom, bang, pow...nothing to it. it`s easy...parts came very fast....Thx PartsSelect.com...i`ve told all my friend`s about PartsSelect
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Dryer would heat initially then cool down
99 of 112 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brett from Monticello, MN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
The top of the dryer was easily removed by prying the front up with a screwdriver then tipping it back and off of the mounting brackets. Then the front of the dryer was removed by unscrewing a single screw on each side that held the front to the side panels then pulling the front away from the dryer. Once the front was off, the coils we
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re easily accessible on the bottom left side. A metal bracket held the coils on and was somewhat tough to get the two screws removed on it as they were stuck, but once they were removed the coils easily came out and I was able to replace them in minutes. The whole job took 15-20 minutes and I now have a dryer that heats through the entire drying cycle.
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Washer Continued To Fill To Point Of Overflow
86 of 97 people
found this instruction helpful.
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alvaro from east hampton, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
First I removed the top panel held by four screws at rear of panel, pulling the panel foward and up. Then disconnected the power and water connections. Then I removed the two screws holding the flow valve to the washer rear panel,pulled the valve foward ,removed the two electric connectors, pinched the water clamp with pliers and remo
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ved the water connection to the valve. Then replaced with the new valve followed the above steps in reverse order, finishing up by re placing the water connections and power. Then checked fo proper replacenent and leaks before replacing top panel.
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Lid Lock Assembly broke
76 of 95 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jenessa from Tacoma, WA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
The Lid Lock Assembly came super fast! The install would have been flawless, but the "pre-drilled" holes on the new Lid Lock Assembly were way to small. We found that out after we had reconnected the wires and gotten it into place. Aside from that small set back, the install went great! This repair is definitey not one that you would
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need to pay a repair person to do!
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Washer wouldn't spin.
55 of 70 people
found this instruction helpful.
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garland from Morganton, NC
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
The problem with my very old washer was that the tension spring had broken long ago and I had jerry-rigged it in place with a cable tie. It would work, but you had to give the drum a spin by hand when it hit the spin the cycle. This probelm further caused the premature wearing of the drive belt, due to slippage. I ordered both a new sp
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ring and a new belt. Upon their arrival, I removed the two screws holding the front panel and lowered it off and out of the way. The old, worn belt was very easy to remove, as there was very little tension on it. Next I attempted to remove the washer that holds the idle arm on. It is in a very awkward spot, and it appears the the washing machine is sort of built around it. I bent it gradually with locking pliers until I could force it off with the blade of a flat screwdriver. Then the idler arm was easy to lower of its axle by twisting the drum a bit and pulling it to one side. I put the new spring into the idler arm, making sure the plastic bushing was in place and replaced the arm. I then repositioned to belt and replaced the front panel. It works great now.
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Agitator Drive Block wore out
69 of 115 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Somerville, MA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Removed fastening screw and Agitator. Removed and replaced Agitator Drive Block. Replaced and fastened Agitator. Done in 5 min.
Ordered part around noon. Shipping was 3-5 days. Part arrived in LESS than 24 hours.
Very happy camper here!
Ordered part around noon. Shipping was 3-5 days. Part arrived in LESS than 24 hours.
Very happy camper here!
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knob broke
50 of 65 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Zackary from Fort Collins, CO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
pulled old knob off. pushed new knob on.
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Worn belt, faulty snubber. Washing machine was 'walking' during spin cycle.
43 of 52 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steven from Jacksonville, IL
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Unplugged machine.
Turned off water supply.
Removed front panel.
Pushed in on belt tensioner, removed old belt, replaced with new belt.
Used pry bar to lift the base assembly high enough off the snubber to remove it. Partially propped it with 2x4 wood scraps.
Used bent clothes hangar to remove ol ... Read more d snubber ring, to protect my hands.
Replaced snubber, arrow pointing up.
Carefully lowered base assembly.
Replaced front panel.
Turned water back on, plugged back in, washing machine no longer 'walks'.
Remember to check the washer against a level if you moved the machine.
Turned off water supply.
Removed front panel.
Pushed in on belt tensioner, removed old belt, replaced with new belt.
Used pry bar to lift the base assembly high enough off the snubber to remove it. Partially propped it with 2x4 wood scraps.
Used bent clothes hangar to remove ol ... Read more d snubber ring, to protect my hands.
Replaced snubber, arrow pointing up.
Carefully lowered base assembly.
Replaced front panel.
Turned water back on, plugged back in, washing machine no longer 'walks'.
Remember to check the washer against a level if you moved the machine.
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washer leaking
41 of 48 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Michael from Woodridge, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
removed front body panel (2 screws at bottom and pulled down panel), then used pliers to squeeze pinch clamps and pull back the two hoses off the pump. then removed the two pump clips that secure the pump in place and used screw driver to gently pry the old pump off the motor shaft, under that was the rubber pump slinger which was pulled
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off the motor shaft. The next step was to sand the rust off the motor shaft and apply some vasoline to lubricate the shaft and install the new pump slinger and pump on the motor shaft,put the pump clips back on and push the hoses on the new pump and slide the pinch clamps back into place, run test to check for leaks then re-install the front body panel.
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washing machine will not drain or spin
41 of 49 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Heath Harris from Arnold, MO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
removed upper cover, removed front cover, tested switch with digital VOM, removed and replaced!
2 screws, 4 wires! saved over $100 when compared to a bill from a repair service!
fast shipping too! will recommend others!
2 screws, 4 wires! saved over $100 when compared to a bill from a repair service!
fast shipping too! will recommend others!
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Dryer would heat only on the initial start. Burner would not light again until completely cooled down. The ignitor would energize, but no gas would flow for ignition.
42 of 54 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bruce from Burnsville, MN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
1. Pry Dryer top up and off the clips. (Front of Dryer)
2. Remove 2 phillips screws on the inside of front panel.
3. Lift front panel up and set off to the side
4. Removed 2 phillips screws with short handled phillips driver that hold the gas valve coil bracket in place.
5. Unplugged and removed both coils, install ... Read more ed new coils and bracket. Re installed front panel, screws and top.
2. Remove 2 phillips screws on the inside of front panel.
3. Lift front panel up and set off to the side
4. Removed 2 phillips screws with short handled phillips driver that hold the gas valve coil bracket in place.
5. Unplugged and removed both coils, install ... Read more ed new coils and bracket. Re installed front panel, screws and top.
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Door Latch & Door Strike Broken On Dryer
42 of 61 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bruce from Seminole, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
I removed the broken door latch & strike with pliers. Then I pushed the new parts into place
Other Parts Used:
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