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MGS5870ADA Maytag Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the MGS5870ADA
46 - 60 of 341

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glass pane was cracked during the cleaning process
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ellen from Shelton, CT
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
needed to completely dis assemble the oven door to get to the inner pane of glass...took some time...I was able to do it on my own...could possibly go a little quicker with two people for a few of the steps...but possible by one...then reinserted the glass pane...and then need to re assemble the door layer by layer...up and working again. ..would have cost several hundred dollars if need to call a repair person in...this way was the cost of the piece..less than $70 ... and my time...well worth it....thanks
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oven temperature not reaching setting/temp. up and down
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ellen from Schenectady, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed back of stove, removed screws from sensor inside oven, unplugged connector from back of stove, pulled sensor out through oven; installed new sensor, replaced back of stove. Set the oven to bake, waited for it to pre-heat; the oven thermometer showed that the same problem was occurring, the sensor replacement didn't work.
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Oven temperature lower then setpoint.
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Massapequa, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After shutting the main valve behind stove. Removed all shelves and rear cover from stove. Unplugged the plug to the sensor. Removed the two mounting screws and pulled the old sensor out. Installed new sensor and plugged it in again. After reinstalling the rear cover and shelves, replugged in power, openned the gas valve behind the stove and tested with soapy water to make sure there wasn't ant developed leaks. Turned on oven with a test thermometer in it. Monitored operation and now oven temperature is roughly 10 to 20 degrees to the setpoint.
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Oven floor panel was warped.
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cindy from Colton, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
It was so easy, I pushed the panel towards the back and lifted the front up then lifted it right out. I am so glad that you had the part. I ordered it and when it got here, I just sliped it right in, perfect fit! Thank you so much! Cindy Brison
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F3 code, oven wouldn't heat.
8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Shaun from Kimball, NE
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First pulled the oven out and noticed how dirty the floor was underneath. Bachelors are BAD housekeepers. Next I removed the oven door (just slides off the hinges) to make it easier to reach in and unscrew the two screws holding the sensor in place in the upper left back of oven. Screws came out easily. Then I removed the back panel by re moving the six screws holding it in place. I unsnapped the temp sensor wiring connection, then pulled the probe out from the front (inside the oven). Installed the new probe by feeding the wires and connector through from the front (inside the oven) and attached it with the two screws. Then went to the back again, snapped the wiring connectors together, and replaced the back panel. Then I scrubbed the floor, pushed the range back in place, reinstalled the door, and gave it a test run. PERFECTION! Heated to within five degrees of setting. EASIEST REPAIR JOB I'VE EVER DONE!
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Oven would stop heating after a few minutes of operation
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Ashland, OR
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.
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Oven wouldn't reach temp, gas smell and loud pop when gas would re-ignite,took 45 mins or more to reach 350' from starting temp of 100'
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Randall from LOS LUNAS, NM
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Considered calling a repair facility, after reading your tips and what parts should fix what problem I decided to fix myself. Moved oven out,slide in gas range. Took off probe and tested with volt ohm meter, read 1090 ohms, should have been good. I could see oven igniter glow red, but I decided to replace both units, glad I did. Oven go' s from 100' to 350' in 8 minutes now, for less than $85.00 have a fully functioning oven now. I'm sure the repair would have exceeded $300.00 or more being we live in a rural area. Thanks for the tips from your experts as well as you customers.
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Oven wouldn't heat
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Adawel from Brooklyn, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
First I removed the burner to which the igniter was attached to. Then I attempted to removed the two screws holding the igniter in place. However, these screws proved to be difficult. I called a local appliance repair shop and the person I spoke to explained how the screws were designed to go one way. Any attempt to remove these screws wo uld result in the threading to be stripped and virtually impossible to remove. (I have never heard of these type of screws before) Anyway, he recommended a hack-saw. Well, the hack-saw worked. After that, the replacing of the part was very easy. Igniter works perfectly and now my wife is ready to conquer the bake sales.
This was my first time using partselect.com.
Yes, I will recommend them to other homeowners.
Thanks. A.T
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The F3 error code displayed and beeped during use of the oven and oven shut down.
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Debra from Colts Neck, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
My husband and I began to pull the oven out and I realized that it was too heavy for me to hold. Luckily we were able to get another man to help. Other than that it was easy. Also, it took us awhile to figure out which screws secured the oven into the cabinet. We saved over $1000.00 on a new oven and installation. Kudos to everyone who added their comments! They gave us courage to give it a try.
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My oven wouldn't light.
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anna from Valparaiso, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I located the igniter element, and remove the two screws that hold it in place. I then went around to the back of the oven and located the wire, and disconnected it. Then I pulled it out through the oven and removed it. I then replaced it with the new element; pushed the wires through to back of the stove and plugged it in. With that done, I screwed the new igniter element into place. I then put my oven back together; pushed it back into place and turned the gas back on. And presto! my oven lights like new again. I saved myself the costly repairman visit, and the job was easy.
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Oven would not heat consistently
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leland from Orting, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I needed to remove the rear panel to replace the sensor, but unfortunately, that was not the problem. It could have been; but also, it could have been the electronic control, or the gas control valve. This was the cheapest "trial" fix. I did talk to a "Warranty Repair Man", who said that IF it was the electronic control, because of the age of the oven, (13 years) the part would not be available and would need to be fabricated by the manufacture. Even then the cost would approach the cost of a new oven. So, we abandonded the idea of repairs to this one. I guess 13 years is a bit to much to expect of a machine this day and time. Things are made to use-up and throw away. Such is life ! !
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oven wouldnt light or would light inconsistently
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jay from Hubbard, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
igniter would heat but oven wouldnt come on or would intermittently.opened door a little and lifted it off removed racks and bottom shield removed wingnut and burner shield,removed 2 screws holding igniter ,took off lower shield to allow access to plug,unplugged old one plugged in new one replaced shield and 2 screws holding igniter,put o ven back together in reverse order,works like new :) ps if unit not unplugged from wall be careful igniter is hot with electricity and will bite you OUCH!
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inner glass on oven door cracked.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • valerie from lanoka harbor, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Repair was very simple. Took the door apart in layers, replaced the glass and put everything else back. it took longer to clean the stove than it did to actually take it apart and put it back together. guess i didnt need to be that much of a clean freak!
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light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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Oven did not heat up.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • NICHOLAD from NANUET, NY
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I changed the temperature sensor and when it didn’t get hot I Also changed the igniter. Fired right up.
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All Instructions for the MGS5870ADA
46 - 60 of 341