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MGR4451ADB Maytag Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the MGR4451ADB
46 - 60 of 318

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The F3 error code displayed and beeped during use of the oven and oven shut down.
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Debra from Colts Neck, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
My husband and I began to pull the oven out and I realized that it was too heavy for me to hold. Luckily we were able to get another man to help. Other than that it was easy. Also, it took us awhile to figure out which screws secured the oven into the cabinet. We saved over $1000.00 on a new oven and installation. Kudos to everyone who added their comments! They gave us courage to give it a try.
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F3 code, oven wouldn't heat.
8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Shaun from Kimball, NE
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First pulled the oven out and noticed how dirty the floor was underneath. Bachelors are BAD housekeepers. Next I removed the oven door (just slides off the hinges) to make it easier to reach in and unscrew the two screws holding the sensor in place in the upper left back of oven. Screws came out easily. Then I removed the back panel by re moving the six screws holding it in place. I unsnapped the temp sensor wiring connection, then pulled the probe out from the front (inside the oven). Installed the new probe by feeding the wires and connector through from the front (inside the oven) and attached it with the two screws. Then went to the back again, snapped the wiring connectors together, and replaced the back panel. Then I scrubbed the floor, pushed the range back in place, reinstalled the door, and gave it a test run. PERFECTION! Heated to within five degrees of setting. EASIEST REPAIR JOB I'VE EVER DONE!
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Oven wouldn't heat
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Adawel from Brooklyn, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
First I removed the burner to which the igniter was attached to. Then I attempted to removed the two screws holding the igniter in place. However, these screws proved to be difficult. I called a local appliance repair shop and the person I spoke to explained how the screws were designed to go one way. Any attempt to remove these screws wo uld result in the threading to be stripped and virtually impossible to remove. (I have never heard of these type of screws before) Anyway, he recommended a hack-saw. Well, the hack-saw worked. After that, the replacing of the part was very easy. Igniter works perfectly and now my wife is ready to conquer the bake sales.
This was my first time using partselect.com.
Yes, I will recommend them to other homeowners.
Thanks. A.T
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Oven wouldn't reach temp, gas smell and loud pop when gas would re-ignite,took 45 mins or more to reach 350' from starting temp of 100'
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Randall from LOS LUNAS, NM
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Considered calling a repair facility, after reading your tips and what parts should fix what problem I decided to fix myself. Moved oven out,slide in gas range. Took off probe and tested with volt ohm meter, read 1090 ohms, should have been good. I could see oven igniter glow red, but I decided to replace both units, glad I did. Oven go' s from 100' to 350' in 8 minutes now, for less than $85.00 have a fully functioning oven now. I'm sure the repair would have exceeded $300.00 or more being we live in a rural area. Thanks for the tips from your experts as well as you customers.
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oven wouldnt light or would light inconsistently
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jay from Hubbard, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
igniter would heat but oven wouldnt come on or would intermittently.opened door a little and lifted it off removed racks and bottom shield removed wingnut and burner shield,removed 2 screws holding igniter ,took off lower shield to allow access to plug,unplugged old one plugged in new one replaced shield and 2 screws holding igniter,put o ven back together in reverse order,works like new :) ps if unit not unplugged from wall be careful igniter is hot with electricity and will bite you OUCH!
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Oven would not heat consistently
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leland from Orting, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I needed to remove the rear panel to replace the sensor, but unfortunately, that was not the problem. It could have been; but also, it could have been the electronic control, or the gas control valve. This was the cheapest "trial" fix. I did talk to a "Warranty Repair Man", who said that IF it was the electronic control, because of the age of the oven, (13 years) the part would not be available and would need to be fabricated by the manufacture. Even then the cost would approach the cost of a new oven. So, we abandonded the idea of repairs to this one. I guess 13 years is a bit to much to expect of a machine this day and time. Things are made to use-up and throw away. Such is life ! !
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My oven wouldn't light.
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anna from Valparaiso, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I located the igniter element, and remove the two screws that hold it in place. I then went around to the back of the oven and located the wire, and disconnected it. Then I pulled it out through the oven and removed it. I then replaced it with the new element; pushed the wires through to back of the stove and plugged it in. With that done, I screwed the new igniter element into place. I then put my oven back together; pushed it back into place and turned the gas back on. And presto! my oven lights like new again. I saved myself the costly repairman visit, and the job was easy.
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Stove wouldn't stay lit and would fire unless the gas was turned on the range top .
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Allen from Swengel, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Removed the drawer and the flash plate underneath .
Unplugged the igniter then opened the & removed the over door . Lifted the bottom plate to expose the burner and igniter . Undo the 2 screws holding the igniter in place . Replace the igniter and reach underneath and plug the wire connecters together . Place all the proper things in their place .. and it was finished ...
The biggest snag I ran into was the one of the 2 screws stripped out when when taken things apart .. but I have taps and found a few new screws and replaced them ......
Quite easy fix .. don't a pay repair man to do it .... !!
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Oven did not heat up.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • NICHOLAD from NANUET, NY
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I changed the temperature sensor and when it didn’t get hot I Also changed the igniter. Fired right up.
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light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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burner would not ignite
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from Sacramento, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Even though the ceramic insulator looked new (white), it had become non-functional, replacement was simple, 2 phillips screws, reassemble and test. Now I will have to order the other 3.
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Bad Door Gasket.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donald from Schuylkill Haven, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
First I took the new gasket out of the plastic bag to make sure it was the right size. Then I proceded to take the old gasket out by pulling it with a long noise pliers. Then I took the new gasket and went around the door putting the pins in the holes that, the old gasket was in. That,s about it.
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Oven took way too long to preheat . Emitted strong gas odor.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Patrick from Las Vegas, NV
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I first matched the symptom (very long preheat time/gas odor) with the most likely problem (faulty oven gas igniter). I then wrote the model # and Googled gas oven repair and got to your website. I then located the faulty part within about 5 clicks and proceeded to order the exact part within another 5 or so clicks. I received my order f rom PartSelest in 2 days and had the oven working with the new igniter in about 10 minutes....Then it dawned on me---"Hey, I should be a Maytag Repair Man."
Thanks for the prompt delivery and the correct installation instructions. I will absolutely use your service again. (Not too soon, I hope !)
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Stove seal fell apart
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Teresa from Washougal, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed old seal parts and had to cut new part to put into space but it went in without difficulty and has sealed the stove door tight again.
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Variable oven heat and Ignitor. problems
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Floyd from Kenai, AK
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
moved stove away from the wall, Disconnected power, Removed 2 screws on the access panel and removed panel. Disconnected qwick release conections on heat sensor and ignitor, Removed oven door and burner cover to expose ignitor, removed 2 screws to remove ignitor and replaced ignitor. Removed 2 screws and removed sensor, replaced sensor. Reconnected qwick conects on sensor and ignitor. Replaced oven door, burner cover and access panel and checked out. Checks OK !
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All Instructions for the MGR4451ADB
46 - 60 of 318