MGF303PGWH Uni Range - Instructions

I am an HVAC tech by trade so it wasn't difficult to diagnose problem with safety valve. The hard part was being without an oven for a week. Repair was simple and effective--oven works good as new.
Shut off gas and unplugged oven. Removed floor of oven between broiler and bake section, used wrenches to disconnect gas line from safety valve in back of oven, used philipps head screwdriver to remove burner assembly and gas valve, reversed process to replace. Checked out operation--OK.

I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act fast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.

Unplug range, remove oven racks, remove 2 screws at the rear of oven bottom sheet metal panel. Lift the back of the panel and slide to the rear a little , then remove panel. Remove nut on top of heat shield and remove shield.. Open broiler draw slightly Note wire connections to gas valve. Remove Philips head screw from sheet metal guard bottom left rear to access wire connection. remove 2 hex head screws the hold igniter in place and install new igniter. remove spade connectors from gas valve and connect spade connectors from new igniter. , remove molex connector from bottom left rear and connect one from new igniter..Install shield in left rear bottom. install heat shield over burner and install nut. Install sheet metal panel in bottom of oven and 2 rear screws.. install oven racks and plug range back in. set clock and test your repair.

order pcs fit perfect.

The new part arrived quickly and well-packaged. Removing the old top was easy enough, but needed to remove the legs (that hold it in an open position for cleaning) from the old top. The sheet metal screws holding one of them in place were rusted in place. Had to loosen with WD-40 and vice grips, but got them off without breaking or stripping the threads. They installed perfectly on the new top and the top slipped into place easily.

First i want to thank you for the quick responce, i got my order in one day. Took top of stove off, took out the old part, put the new one in, made several test to adjust the heat settings put everything back together alls well, now my wife can cook things without burning everything, thank you from the bottom of my heart, a happy wife means a happy man. William L Zeis.

One night I found a mouse living in my stove. We found it literally living underneath the top of the stove (the part where the burners are that you have to lift up). The insulation on the inside of the stove was literally covered with mouse poop, dog food, dog treats, and scraps of food among other things. It was totally nasty and I thought we would have to buy a new stove. However, I searched online and found replacement insulation on PartSelects website and ordered it. It was cheap and the fix was removing old insulation, vaccuming out and cleaning the stove then replacing the insulation with the new one. PartSelect had a great price and shipped promptly.

Lifted top burner plate, removed all knobs, removed front plate that holds oven burner control. Removed burner control feedind thermocouple through hole at top of oven. Installed new oven control, fed t-couple back through hole and placed in holder. Put front plate back in place and re-installed knobs. Oven works great now, lights at 200* where as before would not light at less than 400* setting. Took only a straight blade and phillips screwdriver to do the job in less than 1 hour, that included cleaning the front plate and knobs while they wereoff.

First I had to slide the stove out of its cubby and then I removed the two screws holding on the shield. I next removed the wires going to the spark module. I removed the top screw and loosened the bottom one. Installed the new spark module in reverse order. Less than 15 minutes for whole repair. Still have problems with spark module not working if oven is on, but I think it is because there is no air circulation behind the stove.

Open oven door and remove metal splash plate on bottom of oven by removing two screws in back.
Remove heat distribution plate (metal) by unscrewing a single nut with pliers.
Now the ignitor is visible. Unscrew old ignitor by backing off two screws.
Detach the wires and reattach to new ignitor. (a cover plate may have to unbolt from the left back corner to get at one of the wiring connections.)
Reattach new ignitor and then flame distribution plate.
Put on splash cover and tighten back screws.
Test oven, it should light within 1 minute.
All is done.

Slide out the old; slide in the new!

I propped up the old one, the way you do to clean under the top, and removed the screw on either side of the prop up post. I slid off the top and then removed the vent so I could clean it and put it on the new top. I replaced the vent into the new one, put the props back in and then the screws. It may have gone faster for someone else-I am a woman of 68 years of age and struggled a little with it. All in all, it went very well.

First had to move the stove out of its "nest", take the side cover off, remove 1 screw and loosen the other , take the old module out and reverse the operation. That simple.
Part was supplied 1 day before promised date, awesome. Part fitted exactly as the OEM part, works like a charm, everyone happy.

Unplug the old ones and the new ones snapped into place.

Ordered new racks and replaced them.