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MER6757BAS15 Maytag Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the MER6757BAS15
61 - 75 of 437

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Oven sensor caused cooling fan to run continuously. Had to flip breaker to get it to turn off..
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Aubrey from EADS, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.
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light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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inner glass on oven door cracked.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • valerie from lanoka harbor, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Repair was very simple. Took the door apart in layers, replaced the glass and put everything else back. it took longer to clean the stove than it did to actually take it apart and put it back together. guess i didnt need to be that much of a clean freak!
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broiler element would not heat up.
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • debbie from walden, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
not to offend anybody but what i learned on prior posts helped alot..
1. remove unit and unplug.
2. remove door by opening to 45 degree angle and lifting door face towards you.
3. remove back panel to unit.e.
4.unscrew burner element from back inside of oven.
5.gently pry clip off each off burner element from r ear of unit. Pull gently towards you.
6.unscrew support from inside oven.
7. remove old element and just reverse directions to reinstall.
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6" surface heating coil remained warm when "off"
8 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William C. from Sealy, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the large lower back panel of range (6-8 phillips screws) which holds upper control back panel in place. Removed upper control back panel (2 screws), exposing infinite switch electrical connections. At front face of control panel, removed (pulled off) control knob, exposing 2 phillips screws holding switch in place. (NOTE: A sl eeve is on the switch arm or maybe remains inside the control knob). Look for this sleeve. Without it, the knob will NOT seize the switch rotary arm.
Removed each wire connection individually, one at a time, installing it in the proper position on the new switch.
Reverse all procedures to put things back together. A very simple, straight-forward operation.
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Glass on inside of oven door cracked
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tim from Athens, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I took the oven door apart, pulled out the broken fragments of glass and replaced it with the new glass. I should have taken notes as I took the door apart because it was a bit tricky to remember how all the pieces fit back together.

I was very impressed with how quickly the parts were shipped and the quality of the packing ma terials to protect the glass as it was shipped.
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Lower Oven element burn out.
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Boerne, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Our Maytag electric range has a small oven on top that doubles as a toaster, and food warmer. The lower one is a big oven suitable for Thanksgiving Turkey Etc. It is also a broiler as is the top oven. The top one had the bottom element burn out about 5 months back as well. Now the bottom element on the lower oven had burned out as well. The oven has some age on it, but when I looked to replace it I saw it would be approx $1800.00 - $2000.00 for a new one. I knew the elements were replacable and thought if I should call out the lonely guy, the Maytag repairman. Nope, I pulled the stove out disconnected the 220 power supply. I got the Model number off the back stamped info plate. I looked up Maytags parts on Google and the first one was PartSelect.com. They have easy fill-in spaces for Model and Make and a schematic of the oven and all it's pieces are visually displayed. I found the part I needed and ordered. It arrived in two days, very reasonable, very fast shipping. Pulling out the old elements required only a battery operated screw driver, a flash light, and a magnetic dish to keep track of the screws.The removal of the rear panel takes about 10 sheet metal screws. I marked the leads I disconnected by color with a felt tip pen on the back. I disconnected and removed the aforementioned clips, cleaned inside the oven and placed the new element in, reconnected everything on the back as it had been according to my color assignments, replaced the back with battery operated screwdriver from the magnetic dish, reconnected the 220V power supply. Done, in about 30 minutes; I saved a bunch over a new Stove and at least a couple hundred over a service call. Easy and satisfying.
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the broiler element was not working
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from Maiden, NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
turn off all electric to the wall oven. removed the old broiler. replaced the new broiler and turned on the electric. checked the brolier one to see if it worked....it did thanks for the customer service for her help in finding the replacement part.
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power light on, but burner not getting hot
7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Aaron from Weymouth, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
It was really easy. It took about 5 minutes to remove the screws holding the back in place. Another couple of minutes to remove the switch, and a few more minutes to change the wires over one at a time. Then 5 more minutes to put it all back together again, and plug it back in, and it just worked. Really simple.
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Door gasket was hard and brittle from baked-on grease - heat leaking around door
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harlen from Spring Creek, NV
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Waited for my husband to do it, but when he didn't, I tried it. Very simple! Just pulled the old gasket out of the pinch pin holes in the door, then replaced it. Tuck the one end into the hole at the bottom of the door, then match up the little pinch pins on the gasket with the holes in the door - matches up perfectly! Be sure to tuck in each of pinch pins till they sort of "snap" into each hole. Took me 5 minutes, tops. Works great now, no more lost heat around the edge of the door.
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Racks were dark and dirty
6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Geraldine from Germantown, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The first set of racks did not fit. I called the Service rep, gave him the model number and exchanged the racks for the new ones. The new ones fit perfectly and the service was excellent. I would definitely recommend PartSelect.com to anyone who wants to deal with a company with excellent service, parts and representatives who know th eir stuff.
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Oven was not correctly heating to set temperature
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Trace from Ofallon, MO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.
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Broken levelling leg
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Linda from Oneida, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.
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Needed to replace the oven door gasket/seal
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from Katy, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.
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broken oven door inner glass pane.
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Adam from modesto, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove the door, remove screws from all sides

Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.

Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.

Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.

Remove the remaining screws from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.

Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)

reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.
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All Instructions for the MER6757BAS15
61 - 75 of 437